ihscout54

First thought is fusible links the wire feeding them and all associated connections. This stuff is near the battery on the fender, so you might as well clean the battery terminals as well and check your grounds. Since the car is a "mutt" Its possible the fan and pump have their own power directly from the battery. Seems odd a car with a points conversion (wasnt that yours?) would still have a functioning feedback system. The sound is more likely the hazard flasher unit or some other relay.

Your dash is becoming pretty rare, and I personally like the look of the DL setup. Tachs are cheap, Ide keep the dash just to be one of a kind. Also, you may have noticed its not just the cluster that must be changed.

You should start a new thread, with full details.

Interesting! Never took time to think about it. This done is so the EFR valve isnt held open, under vacuum, when the solenoid closes. Thats likely proof that the solenoid is there for more than just a warm up aid. I never noticed mention in the manual of it being closed under 28 MPH. Since stop and go type driving is not ideal for the fuel mixtures that the EGR makes best use of, its really most effective for highway or cruise driving. For something like putting around off road, switching it off and adjusting the fuel and timing may have real world benefit (not just emissions). I didnt notice much when I had the EGR routed directly to a vac port. When I get time Ill look through my manual and see what I can find on it.

The light on your dash should read ECS, and there are codes for this system. It is more complex to read them than on the OP's car. Im guessing your carbed (stock) Very few things set codes on the feedback cars, temp sender, control solenoids, an open circuit to the O2 sensor, etc. That system doesnt self diagnose well. Do you have to pass an emissions inspection?

You misunderstood, the solenoids are there only for warm up drive-ability. Hence why they are disabled during cold operation. There is a chance that they are closed at wot or something silly like that but the vac signal to them would be so low it wouldn't matter. This tech is very common. I suggested the OP bypass the solenoids themselves with hose and live with the slight cold operation issues this will cause....

Once the splines on the hubs get worn the axle nut wont stay tight, and you will have clunking from the splines every time you take off from a stop. Ive not had a death wobble befor. If you look at the splines you can tell if they are worn. The washers (flat and cone) should be replaced with new ones. Is the wobble just the front end or is it shaking the steering wheel too? Can you have someone else "rock" the tire while you kneel down and watch? Other thoughts... The rack its self, I suppose the knuckle could be bad, check the pinch bolt for the lower ball joints.

Or faulty leaking master cyl that wrecked the boosters seal. I would think there would be an audible hiss from the booster, and at the least bubbled paint and evidence of a DOT leak on the booster.

He brings up a good point... System voltage, or voltage at the ECM. Im not sure if you ever ended up adjusting the TPS correctly or what was the final decision on the injector condition. That code 55 is bugging me. It may have no bearing on youre drive-ability problems, but if the specification code is stating the car is a 49 state model then the ECM doesnt seem as though its functioning correctly. Or, not from what my older M/Y literature shows. In the trouble tree for that code it assumes you have a cali setup. One of the possible procedures in the tree shows if "x and y" are to spec, replace the control unit. From what youve stated about the car, I see no need (or way) to follow this tree. Im thinking process of elimination suggests ECM. You have another ECM on hand so that would be a good next step.

If its an automatic check your modulator. Coolant is known for Its smoke screen abilities as well (intake manifold gaskets carb base gasket and heads). Oil is the next culprit but doesnt usually make a huge screen.

You seem to have access to an array of tools and testing gizmos. Your savvy enough to use them and seem familiar with general procedures and these cars. I think you can get this licked or at least diagnosed.

On off function isnt all we want to see. Say the spring is weak, the orifice is enlarged, or its sticking. We can still eliminate the possibility of excessive flow. In this case it would smooth out under hard accel (IF its not sticking). This is a good sign, but if you have a voltage drop situation at the pump, or restriction in the line, when the regulator opens up the pump may not deliver. Good, plan. If neither yields results I have a couple other odd balls to check for. I dont want to confuse you or make you jump around so wait on these... First; voltage at the coil should be checked. Condition of the coil bracket ground, and Ignition Amp as well. Maybe your getting some weakness in spark. You should check the harness for frays or corrosion at the connectors. Especially the big connectors under the hood and the ones at the ECM. Check your fusible links and connections for corrosion.

The distributor. No code? Unless you have an extra one, or a junk yard with a disty in stock you should pull it apart and check all the internal connections, and condition.

The O2S is sorta a fine tuning device, and has no bearing on the mixture when the car is cold. Again you could unplug to test, but IMO its unlikely. This has kinda droned on, so we should regroup. Please let me know the status of the following: Fuel pressure, have you tested it under load, with your symptoms this is very important. Im wondering about the pressure regulator. Recheck your timing, Have you checked that ground Ive mentioned, yet? My advice done just look at them disassemble and clean em. Have you disconnected and plugged the egr and evap systems, yet? Overall engine condition? compression timing belts etc. it would be a shame to beat yourself over this and have a slipped timing belt or bad valve. Were the vac readings at idle pretty steady?

How could it? Easy enough to do. If its giving you nutty codes maybe its nutty too.

Oh, and Im at a loss for your code 55. If your spec code says your car is a fed emissions model, that DTC shouldnt be on the table... I doubt that it has anything to do with this. But an engine that doesnt match the ecm, throw in a corroded ground or 2, who knows. Are you absolutely sure your reading the spec code and DTC right?

IIRC there is a ground lug bolted right next to the thermostat housing kinda under the upper radiator hose that has given me greif in the past.

Agreed, and leak small enough that it isnt effecting the idle may become large enough to throw off the MAF readings under load. Perhapse a set of vice grips to close off the hose connected to the pcv could serve as a test for the valve itself. Might as well plug both lines to the evap canister. Also eliminate the solenoids as a leak point by making your plug at the lines feeding them. - long shot...

It would definately make the car run richer, over all. Did you check the grounds I mentioned yet? - this is important, if you ave an increase in resistance in the ecm ground it could throw off all the sensor readings. Inspect your intake boot, thoroughly, for any cracks. Check where the elbows meet the boot and the elbows themselves (make sure the fit tight). Next... Try removing the vac lines from the EGR and the evap canister, plug them and take a drive. Fuel pressure under load?

If you have one handy Ide totally try it. The catch to this test is that running without it forces the ECM to run the engine using the CAS, temp sender, and tps. So there is a small chance having it disconnected is simply hiding the problem. If it were mine ide swap it. Fingers crossed for you.

Needs to be a nice mist use a bright flash lite, timing light what ever. You did check fuel pressure, right?

Dont blow off thise grounds either. Check injector spray pattern, if its gummed up it will "pee" instead of spray.

What year brat are you working on? The fronts do not interchange with the rear. If its an EA81 (1982+) car then the leone axles should be a match. But I am not familure with your market. Your vibration could be a tire or rim. Axles can vibrate at sped but usually under load, like hard acceleration or engine breaking.

So the loyale ecm has a priming pulse? None of the black SPFI ecms Ive used had a priming pulse. Or I dont remember

On the spfi cars the fuel pump will not crank unless the engine is turning. If you put it in self check mode the pump will cycle/pulse key on engine off. Flakey pump operation could be a bad relay or harness issue. Check the pump ground. I had an ecm once that would not trigger the pump. The driver circuit inside the ecm had failed I suppose.