ihscout54

Removing the offending cat/exhaust would work. But you run the risk of stripping studs and needing to replace gaskets etc. its simple enough and may work flawlessly, or it may not.If its plugged enough to cause severe driveability issues then you will see the behavior with a vacuum gauge. Drive the car and warm it up well. You should use a manifold vac port, get your idle reading 15-22hg or whatever. Rev the engine to 2500 - 3000 rpms. The gauge needle will dip for a second and should settle higher or the same as the idle reeding. Hold it at the increased rpms for a couple mins, if the gauge starts dropping, your exhaust is plugged. Keep in mind if your car is missing and running poorly you are going to see odd converter temps.

Make sure the coil bracket is properly grounded too.

Its the ignition transistor, Ive also seen it called an amplifier. It uses pulses from the ecm to switch the coil. I have also read that the car will run with this removed/bypassed. Ive not tried it tho.

What is the temp difference between the inlet and outlets of the cats? Are you sure the 2nd cat is not just a resonator? Do you have access to a vacuum gauge? Thats the best way to test for plugged exhaust.

How many flashes are you getting befor the code?

I want to add to naru's post: What voltage are you getting at the coil key on engine off?

This thought totally occurred to me as well, but Im getting the impression hes getting a CEL indicating an active code. But definately worth a mention...

You should check your grounds. Especially the one at the manifold on the passenger side and the connection at the battery. It is possible for the injector to be plugged up, but you said you have cleaned the throttle body? You can check the spray pattern with the boot off and MAF disconnected. Youll have to clear codes after this. A dirty/failing mass airflow sensor (MAF) is another possibility if your symptoms dissapear with it unhooked it would be a possibility. Whats the status of your ignition system?

Read this post again. Find out what mode your ecm is running. That code doesnt exist on the mpfi chart, and its in exception (cali only) on spfi.

Judging from your other post its possible the car is MPFI, I dont have a pinout for the MPFI models. That may be the cause of the codes persistence. Should have clarified this first.

Are you sure its the same code? Im guessing you cleared the codes. You need to verify the specification code after removing the ground. Make sure there is no way that you are getting ground to pin 33. 5: M/T Federal emissions (wire disconnected) 6: M/T Cali (wire connected) 7: A/T Fed (wire disconnected) 8: A/T Cali (wire connected) Unless the ECM is bad or the Loyale ecms are different, Im unsure of how you can still get this code with pin 33 ungrounded.

Its a ground and wont be hot or have "power". Without looking at a diagram I cannot say where its tied in to ground. Ungrounding pin 33 will change the designation or function of the ecm. In other words yes cutting that wire or removing it from the connector should work. You must have had an engine swap or some mod during the cars life to cause this issue.

On the spfi models its a 6 pin brown or black relay. Withouth going and looking I cannot be sure but thats whats in memory.

Pretty sure the round (4 pin) is for the pump and the square is for ign. The square relay is somewhat specific. Youde have to study a diagram for wiring around. Didnt you have another car you can borrow one from?

Obvious places to start would be coolant level and fan operation. I cant stress this to you guys enough, you need some means of seeing the actual temps. The gauges on the EA81s are terrible. I cannot say the same for your car, but step one when a gauge abnormality catches your eye. Test. Get yourself a laser temp gun. Is it possible the car someimes runs at this point on the gauge and you have just become aware of it and its bugging you?

Theres a difference in heater performance between the 195 and the 180 tstats. Ive noticed this too. Dont use the 160, theres no reason for it and it can possibly lead to sludging and other crankcase issues. The fan turns on around 205ish degrees which means constant large variations in temps between idling and cruising down the road. If your car is running too hot this is not going to solve the problem.

Do you know which carb you have carter 1bbl or Hitachi 2bbl? There is a sight glass on the side of the bowl, but its almost worthless. Its not that hard to pull the top of the carb... The vapor separator style filter has nothing to do with being a feedback model. Do you have an O2 sensor and an ECM? Since it drove in fine 3 years ago and it sat undisturbed Im leaning towards a plugged circuit in the carb. You can handle this, its a low mile great shape unit, pull it apart and clean it well, assemble with a kit. Webers are under 350 bux tho. Another option is to look online for a rebuilt hitachi and roll the dice.

Haha, Dave has been at this a long time! Ide have been 7 years old when he walked into that dealership and made his purchase.

Could also be the base gasket or the throttle shaft/s. If you spray carb cleaner on the throttle shafts of any old carb you will often get some reaction. These carbs really arent worth rebuilding, or at least not in my opinion. I do like the look of the stock air cleaner tho. Is your car a feedback model? Have you confirmed if there is fuel in the bowl when it dies?

The problem with hunting for them is figuring out what you need. Normally open/closed etc. i have a bunch of these types of solenoids I use for various operations. I am a believer in having them operational, but you can simply bypass them with a piece of hose and see if you notice any issues. If it works out then get some resistors. You dont even have to remove the solenoid. Or get some hitachis or toyota solenoids from the boneyard.

Lets start over, I do not remeber the details of your car. Hitachi? Whats the status of you vacuum system? Any number of things could cause this and after all you have been through so far it would be easy for all of us to get tunnel vision. Since the car sat for some time the carb could be plugged up. The choke might be poorly adjusted, unhooked, etc. The float may have something in the seat, causing flooding, or it could be getting stuck closed causing a run dry situation.

Does the fan cycle or run non stop when it gets hot? Do you have access to a laser thermometer? This is a common complaint and often the car isnt actually overheating.

IIRC they are there for warm up drivability. You will survive with them bypassed, and replaced with resistors, as many of us have. Pretty sure I used grey 2 watt 33 ohm resistors. I currently am running working junk yard units. Ive read the old style Toyota solenoids work but they have smaller ports. Just replace the solenoids with a straight fitting.

Re read my first post. Is the car actually overheating?