ihscout54

Holy ancient thread batman! Egr valves dont exactly increase fuel economy. It does aid a little in mpgs during highway cruising. If one was to properly remove this device on a carbed engine the jet sizes would need increased and the timing could likely be advanced. This may yeild a little more power and hence the over all fuel consumption just might remain very similar. Theres a bit more benefits of EGR function, and I always elect to keep them.

If sounds to me like you have the hitachi disty with the module under the cap. If you have points (it probably wouldnt be stock) then you should check them and adjust them. Make sure your timing is close to specs. The carb bolts just need to be tight. Keep checking for vac leaks, this would include the intake manifold gaskets, egr valve, and the brake booster. Listen for a hiss, carefully spray around with carb cleaner etc. for safety reasons carb cleaner is frowned upon but it works, and it evaporates quickly.

The grease on your cat is probably not causing this problem. Sounds more like your engine fan/s arent coming on. First step is to verify if the fan is coming on when it heats up. How hot are we talking? The gauges in these cars are terrible. If you had a 180 degree thermostat, the car may usually run at 1/3 and it climb just over 1/2 while sitting in summer traffic. Then the fan comes on at 205 degrees. It looks like alot on the gauge and its not really a big deal. If the fan cannot keep up with the demand or its not coming on at all you do have a problem.

Is the miss rhythmic (one dead cyl) or is it just sputtering? Points distributors are kinda rare here, are you sure its points? The Hitachi distys are well known for shaft play, the typical symptom is a jumping tach. Since your waiting for parts theres no reason not to check for vac leaks, and re-torque your carb mounting bolts.

i cannot say if there will be room under the hood for the compressor with the EJ swap. If its been done someone here will chime in. You probably will need to have custom hoses made. You will need a NEW condenser, and if the car doesnt have an evaporator, or it has been unhooked and open to the elements for years, you will need one of those too. Sometimes the evaps are the hardest part of any A/C install. They still sell those ugly under dash A/C kits tho. If you are planning on having the A/C professionally installed then it would probably be cost prohibitive.

The '86 is an oddball, but may be the same as the '88 FSM attached pin-out. Thanks for looking this up, I know it takes time to look stuff up.

Its possible the cats were different for the cali models too. Cant say tho. Perhaps the egr valves had differnet flow specs. If there were differences in flow, would it have been enough to require different mappings? I noticed no difference between running either function. Ive also driven with the EGR unhooked and dont recall any issues. I sorta think the timing and fueling maps were set pretty effectively for the standards of the era, and they may have had really no reason to embed such changes. I do realize the flow sensor is there for some reason. But seriously, who cares anyways. We have no way to see the software so its a moot point. The real goal here is; one wire is all it takes for these ECUs to be switched between functions. Give it a try and let us know if you get a ping or change in mpgs...

It would be the 1990 we want info from. Even if the o.p. Doest return it would be nice to have posted for future searchers.

A tiny pic works too. Ive had to add pins to the connectors, and swap stuff around. Though they are tough if one is not familiare with removing them (especially the smaller pins) youll just break the wire in the connector. If he wants to go this route, use some tiny needle noses to pull the black retainer clip first. DaveT, do you have the FSM for the Loyale? Be nice to know if your ECMs are similar. Ive avoided them for my swaps becuse of some of the extra functions.

The problem is on the harness side? Seems more likely there would be an issue with the connector. The shielding is probably not that important, but not that hard to recreate. Replace as little wire as possible. I have a repair or 2 like this on mine.

What carb are you running? Your guess is probably not far off. Sounds like an accelerator pump dive adjustment issue or a bad accel pump. Float level may be set too low, or you may have a supply problem (like a weak pump). Did you replace the rear fuel filter? Check your timing and vacuum advance, a ruptured diaphragm or broken hose and retarded timing might cause this.

I believe the only difference between the 49st and cali functions of the ECM is the EGR monitor. It simply is there to verify flow at the EGR. For one too change the ECM function from cal to 49st and eliminate the EGR monitor, all you have to do is snip the wire for pin 33. BUT, Ive only tried this on a couple 87-89 black ECMs/harnesses. I cannot verify if this is the same on the silver Loyale box you guys have. One could look in their fsm to be sure. In other words look before you leap or try at your own risk! Leave extra wire for re-solder etc. In your FSM it may be titled something different like "specification grnd" or just "ground". Hopefully one of you can confirm this. Also keep in mind that the attached pin-out is looking at the face of the connector, so it would be reversed when you go to snip a wire.

the sensor.

So my previous post still applies. If you dont wanna pull the dash then test the suspect wires by grounding with KOEO (key on engine off). Im not sure how youre testing, did you verify the EJs CEL out put is triggering ground?

The sensor is located just befor the egr in the manifold. It looks like a tiny o2 sensor. The wire/s going to it are tiny and black. There is a wire that can be grounded/ungrounded to enable which emissions package your ecm set too. Its been so long I cant remember which one. If you dont have to pass an inspection I will look on my car for you. Setting the ecm to non-cali would eliminate that code and its easy to do (or it was on my older black box ecms). Let me know i think well get this solved.

Im guessing u checked the bulb right? Is this for a conversion? Are you able to see if pin 2 has the same color wire going to it? I dont know if they changed the pin outs for the loyale ECM but that would be a place to start. If you find out you have the right wire (which is grounding key on eng off) and a good bulb then Ide question the (+) supply on the dash or the solder for the socket etc.

My '88 FSM shows that wire as an 18 ga red/blue wire, and its pin 2 on the ecm connector. Been awhile since my last SPFI swap but Im pretty sure the ECM grounds the bulb, and the cluster supplies the (+). Not sure if '88 is the same as '90.

To attain 5k rpms the throttle would have to be open more than any adjustment screw would likely allow. The linkages or cable is sticking or the secondary is open a bit. Too much fuel pressure at idle usually causes a stall from flooding.

Anything sky blue would be fine. No one is gunna notice but you. I like to do my valve covers and air cleaner in dupli colors "Detroit Diesel Alpine Green". It looks pretty good but its more of a green blue. Agreed satin looks more origional than high gloss.

The tech term is ball joint separator, and thats not a bad idea at all either. I have have air tools so Im not really sure if I even have an old pickle fork for under my toolbox still. But what I can say for sure is Subasaurus is either single, or has a really lax significant other, dirty tools on the carpet... Oh, that would be a death-able offense in my house, and I usually choose life. Gave me a laugh

I think the name for that is fast idle control device (FICD) actuator. If you dont have working A/C this is probably not worth the trouble of sourcing or replacing. Such a device was used on many cars of the era so if you cant find the right one maybe you can modify a different one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-ACTUATOR-FICD-NOS-PART-27656-H7200-/151642304933?hash=item234e95f1a5&vxp=mtr

I mentioned this possibility a few posts up. I usually install the wheel/hub side first, as it gives you a little more ability to wiggle the stub around in there. Due to differences in machining or worn bearings etc, some go in/out easy some do not. If you dont have a proper tool for this an impact or just a wrench (whatever you used to remove the axle nut) can be used to pull it through the rest if the way. Usuaully I can finesse my way through the first bearing and get the threads out far enough to continue pulling it through (gently) with the nut and a big washer.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hantavirus

They are free at harbor freight with a cupon, or cheap without. It will at leasr tell you voltage in the system. If you can get it to start fine with fully charged battery then later it gets weaker and weaker till it wont start, thats a classic alternetor failure. This is what the above posters have already mentioned.

You have been asked about engine cranking already. Sorry guys im simply repeating what you all have posted. When the car doesnt start does it crank slowly or at all? Cranking performance has nothing to do with the ecm. You need access to a volt meter or at least have a way to get the car to a parts store that has free bat and alt testing.