99lego

Ca-ching!!!!! We have a winner. Cam timing off ONE TOOTH! Now I can sleep at night! Thanks ya'll!!!!!

Hey ya'll I did a fair deal of searching on the forum for misfire issues....there are many....and I'm running out of ideas of what to do and where to go. So: 99 legacy w/ ~186k just got: Heads machined, total reseal, timing / water pump / t-stat / pulleys, new clutch / throwout bearing, 5MT w/ ~80k, new knock sensor, plugs & wires (oem), and a coil. She also had both cat's removed. And the evil thing is misfiring. It is subtle at first, like a slight hesitation with a small amount of power loss, but it gets bad when the car is under load...like pulling up a hill and then misfires badly and has massive power loss. I've noticed that this is mostly when the car is running between 2.5k and 3k rpm. Usually if i'm above 3k rpm it won't mis. I've had a p0420 code forever. Both o2 sensors have ~25k on them (oem). Please help.

I can't be the only one who's had this happen to them. Who's out there?

Ok....so just to be clear this is the center diff not the pumpkin. You were right. They were all totally fine and will be returned to the dealer tomm. I can't wait to blow up this tranny so I can move on to shorter gears but.....I slapped that center diff in today and once she was all buttoned up and back on the road I'm be willing to bet she'll go another 100k on 4" w/ tires before she needs anything else (most likely a new diff again!!!). Really though she's running like nobody's business now. That is: no whine / whir / change in audible pitch after the diff warms up. The car no longer lunges / lurches / hesitates / pauses when you let off and also is free of any binding even with the 28's locked in both directions. Now for the gory stuff: Separating the case was cake with a flathead but, when I pulled the rear cover off the viscous coupler came with it... That is the Phase II center diff divorced the viscous coupler. From what I understand the fluid within the VC is blue. What was drained out today was a milkshake....just like how it was ~6k ago when it was drained after the pass side CV boot fragged grease all over the block and was replaced. So I fragged an entirely sealed unit within a sealed unit and did ~6k with her. I dunno if I should or here. Who else has this happened to?

Yah I'm paying $3.50/g now....not like when I was living in Cali in '08 when the price was $5.15 an hour in any direction.

way back when my bone stock phase II ej22 had 50k on her she did this..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68353

I appreciate the feedback. Right now the car has nearly 200k on the drivetrain, 100k of which the unibody has been blocked down 2" while the top hats have been perched on 2", and she's been running on 28's. I feel that the added stress would dictate a bit of preventative maintenance. I mean I'd feel that mitigating any potential for failure would save me in the long run...no? So when you say more difficult than it's worth what are you getting at? After researching diff bearings I've found on a few boards that they can be equally responsible for causing noise, vibration, and other glorious things associated with a bad diff / concern: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1170285 I feel that more feedback would be helpful here.

So after a lot of looking I found a center diff for $200. It wasn't easy as nearly everyone I spoke with would not divorce the diff from the trans....but finally I lucked out. Now that I have the part I was considering replacing the bearings that are in the case: More specifically I was definitely going to replace whats referred to as #28 in the diagram and was considering the bearing located behind the transfer drive gear #32. I was also entertaining the idea of doing both bearings, #24 & #26, on the transfer driven gear. But...having never torn into the case before, and having no idea whatsoever about the worth while of doing all these bearings while i'm in there, I have come to you with my plight. Subaru shockingly enough has all four of these parts sitting on the shelf at the local dealer. So I ask the question what would you do in this situation?

************ yes that means Mt. Hood. 97067

also this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=122152 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105512 215/65R16 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105512 2" blocks to the unibody/suspension steering knuckle chop 2" strut tower extensions ....so a 4" lift & whatever the tires do http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105512

^^^^***^^^^ A WRX center diff would be limited slip...I think. It would be fun to run a front and rear limited slip. Free Range has done it with good results. I belive the gearing on the Lego is 3.9....WRX maintained the same gearing up until the 6MT....or am I totally off here.

^^^^^^^^ Confused as to why a phase II tranny wouldnt accept just the viscous coupling and would require the entire center diff?

Dryer sheets.....put a sheet or two under the floor mats, under the seats, in the trunk/wagon. They work.

Howdy, My Viscous Coupler is shot. Tight turns right and left at low RPM's cause for major lurching. Luckily these symptoms are limited to when I'm pulling into or out of parking spots as the Lego seldom spends time in the city. So.....knowing that I'm going to have to replace this part to keep her running, currently 175k, I was hoping that someone out there had done a swap from a WRX into a Gen II Lego. It seems like it would be straight forward enough as long as the gearing was matched.....right? Uh details: 99Lego 30'th aniv. edition w/ a 5MT rolling on 28's with a 4" lift. Build thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105512

I was in a huge rush this morning so I grabbed a room temp ~65 deg. Pepsi and poured it on the contacts. Cranked them down a notch and BOOM!!!! Back in buisness.

When I turn the key the brake, seatbelt, and door lights ignite on the dash but when I turn it all the way they dim, along with any interior lights, and all I hear is clicking like the relay is bad. No spark or crank. The car has been doing this intermittently for a few weeks. I just replaced the starter and now I'm about to have a coronary 'cause she can't get me to work tomm. '99 leg w/ 160k

He's still fabricating them. Where do you have that one mounted to the unibody?? Doesn't look like where the bumper used to be attached....which would negate the whole airbag issue. EDIT I just looked at the pics from post 28 again, well really just the final one - the profile one and I gotta tell you I'm kinda baffled. Do you have the entire bumper secured to the unibody on the towhooks? As far as I can see, and read on your post, you've got that whole hunk of steel secured through nothing other than the towhooks. What kind of stress do you think those hardpoints can handle? 45 mph head on's? Does the whole bumper vibrate or shudder or move at all? It just doesn't seem like the best place to fasten it to the front end especially since the bumper mounts are right there and all. I guess I really just want to hear the logic for this....from a clearance point of view.

I was leaving work today and decided I had to take up this photo op. The other Lego lives in my hood, on hood.

I'm out the door at 6 am to make it up to work at the mountain on time. Today was so nasty they closed the road up to timberline around 9 or so for a few hours. Driving up here is a zoo. I'm in before dark so as not to tempt the ccso to stop me for having just a rear az tag. On the weekends the yahoo's, drunkards, and most tourists have the right of way, everybody else just goes the speed limit.

I'm in brightwood and am in welches 2x every day. I could actually show you the 4" kit on my 99 Lego in person. All the work was done in Eugene...not too far from you. PM me for contact info.

It's a 5mt. In 99 they changed the tranny's up a smidge. Syncros are really grabby, getting into first from 2rd or 3rd requires surgical accuracy, and finding reverse first thing after you get in it can be a chore sometimes. But now with the drivetrain dropped a bit my throws feel WAY shorter. Haven't been in Moab since my last river trip from Stillwater through Cataract....but the road from there to telluride beckons like sirens from Titan. I'll be teaching up on mt. Hood for the winter, or until my legs give out. I guess whichever comes first.

It didn't stop there.

10" is fun as hell to roll on! She wheels like nobodies buisness.

Yes as stated on page one of the thread the unibody sits on 20 2" steel blocks. That includes the pivot points on the contol arm. The rear anti-sways have 2" custom steel linkages as well. Sorry no pics as of right now.

Damn straight it's that tall.....it wasn't easy either. Like I said before....camber and toe are true. side by side ob & lego steering knuckles....before it got chopped. She's got 135k on her og cv shaft (pass side). I'll let you know when I break it. Just put these piaas on.