artistic_gore

This is with straight (stock) 9003 bulbs I think... as replacements I did get hotter bulbs though (I haven't installed them yet) Today I got some replacement sockets at auto zone for $10 that say they are good for aftermarket bulbs (we'll see) I am going to install the sockets later tonight (I ghetto fabbed it for now) right now I have to go see if I can drive the car without blowing the engine. To be continued in another thread (maybe)...

Anyway, Last night I finished my tune up (so I thought) by changing my trans fluid and filter and radiator hoses and thermostat. Anywho, the trans seems good now, it's a little stiff but I haven't checked the fluid level beyond adding the recommended 4 quarts. But thats not what Im hear about. Were here to discuss the other side of my tune, the coolant system. How fast does a water pump "go out" does 3 days sound reasonable? I mean from initial suspicion to full on failure. And how do I check. My car has overheated twice and never pegged the heat sensor then yesterday after I completed all of the aformentioned procedures it took about 1/4 mi to totally peg out the sensor. Wrong thermostat, bad pump? Any advice will be appreciated. Oh and I will be ordering a new water pump today, I just want to make sure that this is the last thing I should have to do to her. Thanks, Bryce

Sounds good to me. I'll replace the socket eventually but for today at least I am going to replace the connectors, wrap them in some electrical tape, and call it fixed. (i'll keep an eye on it; scouts honor) Thank you

The title is the short and dirty version. My passenger headlight has been intermitten for a few weeks and about a week ago it cut out completely, I figured it had burned out so I did a quick check under the hood and the socket had fallen off of the headlight. I didn't really have a good look at it then (I was more worried about the cop) but it cut out again two days ago and so I figured the socket had just fallen off again, but... this time the socket had been burnt pretty badly, it appears that it was caused by the wire at the top of the socket (I haven't checked the diagram to see what wire this is yet (I'm assuming hot:-p) the socket itself is trashed so I was going to ghetto fab something until I can afford to fix it properly. Thanks, Bryce

I know that, I was planning on drilling the spot welds and cutting back the seam on one of the pieces about half way to give me a lip to weld to. Unfortunately it doesn't look like I will be getting the 97. It's not worth it to me to spend over $400 on a parts car when that is how much I bought the car I currently have running and driving for.

Yeah the more I think about it the more I think I would rather go this route. Unfortunately that means I have a lot of work to do in the next week or two since this is my DD. IF, I buy the 97 that is.

Cool, I'll post up here when I'm ready.

I will probably be parting the 95 after I'm done with it. Prices would be cheap since everything needs attention. Like EJ22 $50. But this won't be happening for a few weeks at least. I have to get my truck running before I could ever think of tearing my current legacy apart.

Yes I asked several questions prior to bidding (I haven't bid yet) and found out that it is a 5 speed trans (Woohoo!!!) and that it isn't showing any warning lights on the dash (according to the seller) they also said that it doesn't shutter while turning and that there doesn't seem to be any noise coming from the wheel areas.

Both are sedans, neither are outback models or turbo.

Hi all, I am wondering if anyone has a link that could explicitly tell me the differences between different model years of legacy. I suppose that the most important thing is to know whether or not I can pull body parts from a 95 and put them on a 97. The issue is that I think the center diff is going dead from the PO putting a junkyard tire on the rear when 1 of them blew out. The tire is visibly a different diameter. I have corrected this but I don't think it will last. The car has several other issues and I think it will cost more to repair my current car than to repair the 97 I am looking at on ebay since that one doesn't have any mechanical or electrical problems, just body damage. Yah, I'm done Thanks

The strut mounts are ok. I think I need to read more about torque bind. Has anyone run seafoam through there tranny to ungunk? Or possibly Lucas oil transmission fix? I have some of the latter in my garage so I guess I'll check the fluid level today and add some just for kicks. If I find that I do in fact have torque bind I think my plan of attack will be to remove about a quart of trans fluid, add a can of seafoam and run the car for a few minutes and drive it around the block. Then I'll drain the fluid, add cheap tranny fluid and run the car again. Then I'll drain the crap oil, replace the filter and add good tranny fluid. Maybe it'll help maybe it won't. The tranny fluid has probably never been done in the life of the car so I don't think it can hurt to change it. Before anyone jumps on the tranny damage bandwagon I just have to say that I have done this in the past and while it may cause damage it does help to clean the internals. Running seafoam in my trans freed up a stuck solenoid in my cavaliers transmission so I think it could work for this too. I'll let you all know the outcome. Bryce

I'm not sure what is on my plate next but it seems that while the new CV was in order it did not solve my problem There is still a clunking noise while going around corners. It sounds like an inner CV joint but get this. I put a fuse in the FWD holder and it disappeared :confused: Time to do some more homework I guess. Hopefully I can get some cash out of my cavalier so I can make this subie reliable.

I finally got my car back together today. New CV shaft and all. I didn't save any money doing the job myself but I did get some new tools out of it Now for the laundry list of other repairs. Thank you all for the help and direction. I don't know if I could have done it otherwise. Bryce

Bump for new question, please read top post. Thank you, Bryce

Be patient though. I was in a rush and the bit walked on me and now I am replacing the whole knuckle but it can be done.

I got my "new" knuckle a few days ago but unfortunately the bearings on it are shot and the ABS sensor is dead unfortunately I didn't really take a close look before I left the junk yard but for $42 I can't complain too much. Tomorrow at work I'll press out the old bearings and see if I can't re-use the ones from the knuckle that came off the car. The good news is that tonight I got the old knuckle off along with the CV shaft. More bad news is that the new shaft didn't come with a new roll pin. Can anyone tell me the size of the roll pin so I can make sure to get the correct part? Has anyone ever just used a cotter pin? I think it would work better than an off the shelf roll pin since that wouldn't have a flanged end to hold it in place like the OEM style that should have come with the shaft. Thanks again, Bryce

Thanks, I used car-part.com and found one from a 95 legacy 20mi away for $40 I'll go pick it up tomorrow and hopefully I can get my car back on the road.

Edit: Has anyone done there own bearing replacement? I looked through my manual and through the USRM and came up with nothing. Maybe I haven't looked close enough at the manual but I just would like to know what the proper procedure is for removal/replacement. I tried using a press to do the work today but I felt that if I kept applying pressure the whole knuckle was going to snap. I realize that the hub can be pressed out of the center fairly easily but I got my adapter stuck in the bearing so tomorrow I will get that out then press out the hub and try to figure out the rest but hopefully someone on here can provide some insight. Thank you, Bryce

I would just buy a running one on ebay. The last one I was watching sold for under $1100. Then you wouldn't have to deal with wiring problems and you could part out the rest of the car to get some of your cash back.

Where do you put the fifth injector?

Port and polish?

Back to my current issue. Has anyone just left the ball joint pinch bolt alone and removed it the other way? By taking off the crown nut from the bottom and using a pickle fork to pop the shaft out. I was able to get the crown nut loose thats why I'm asking.

Why don't you just have your current heads decked?

I wish, I'm in the coast guard:brow: