Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

1995SubaruImpreza

Members
  • Posts

    134
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by 1995SubaruImpreza

  1. The saga continues...

     

    The car is in at the mechanic and as everyone has been saying all along...internal headgasket leak.

     

    So my question now is, is there anything I can do to prolong the inevitable...

     

    Mechanic is quoting about 2300.00 (cdn) 1750.00 (usd), which at least sounds reasonable...

     

    The car also has a check engine light on (P0420) - from my recearch on here could quite possibly be an O2 sensor (?)

     

    Also thinking ball joints/tie rods and at least one wheel bearing will need to be done as well (mechnic will confirm tonight)

     

    So do I bite the bullet and fix the car, or do I let the poor thing go to rest?

     

    155,000 miles on the car, body has some rust in the wheel wells but other than that it is in pretty decent condition.

  2. ***Update***

     

    Brought it into the shop, they did a coolant system flush and said it was in pretty bad condition. Replaced the rad cap and thermostat and pressure tested the system. No leaks found and everything was fine...or so it seemed. 


    On my drive into work today, I am noticing at idle the heat is going again. So far it has not started over heating, but if it anything like last time the drive home will be when I start overheating. I have not checked the coolant level in about a week, but will before I leave work.

  3. Hello,

    when driving home this even I would only have heat when driving and cool air when idling. About 5 minutes later in stop and go traffic I started over heating, as I drove temp would go back down. Coolant levels are fine, I did however notice over the last few days a faint coolant smell but was not too worried since my coolant level appear to be remaining at the same level

    Would this be a thermostat? It is a 2002 Subaru Forester

     

    Thank you,

    Denise.

  4. Update

     

    The pipe is horribly rusted (he showed me) in a few locations and there is a leak at the hanger.

     

    He considered putting a piece of pipe into the cat flange (I think) and then into the rusted out pipe where he could get a good spot. He said it may hold out for a couple weeks.

     

    He priced a cheap pipe and flange assembly with gaskets (about 200.00) and he said about 45mins labour. Stainless steel option was about 275.

     

    I asked him about running a straight pipe and bypassing the resonator (as mentioned earlier in this post) He said he could do stainless steel that way for about 200.00, but I may hear some louder exhaust noise at high RPM's.

    Decided to go the straight pipe in stainless, will see how that goes... Seemed better than another crap pipe and if I can't stand the sound (doubtful, that is what the radio is for!) then when I have a little extra cash I can always switch it back out for a stainless steel with resonator.

     

    As for the cat, he showed it to me, said at least on visual inspection it looks great, although there are 2 cats and he can not see the first one without cutting into the pipe.

     

    Thanks so much for all of the advise, through the years everyone has always been super helpful.

     

    Denise

    1995 Subaru Impreza

    2001 Subaru Forester

    2002 Subaru Forester

  5. Have an appointment this afternoon with a local exhaust shop elite stainless steel. Just you said he thinks just a small piece or pipe welded in should do at the cat. He will look at the second spot after the reasonator and see what can be done there as well. Tried to look into the cat for any signs of damage, but to such luck.

    Will keep you posted on any updates, I am sure they will mention if there is any cat damage.

  6. The car has 220k (13670 miles) Has always been well maintained, oil changes very regularly. Coolant flush, transmission flush all within oem required time frame.

     

    I am the 3rd owner but have all the repair history (has been going to the same mechanic since new) .

     

    Only repairs it has ever needed are pretty much all maintenance.

    Brakes, wheel bearing, timing belt etc.

  7. Hi all,

    I have a 2002 forester, on the way home tonight (highway) all of the sudden the car got very loud. When I got off the highway, from a stop trying to accelerate the car was really struggling.

     

    Rpm seemed fine

    No engine or other warning lights

    Idle is very smooth

    Gets louder the more gas you give it

     

    When I got out of the car it sounded like the noise was directly under the front door.

     

    In the past there was a code for the cat but engine light cleared and hasn't come back (about 6 months ago)

     

    Any suggestions or ideas?

     

    Thanks,

    Denise

  8. If this is an "S" model you are most likely hearing the limited slip differential working. I can make my 01 Outback Ltd do the same thing since new. A good amount of spin to the rear wheels and it clunks in pretty hard. Not really anything to worry about. Under normal conditions it functions fine, just when there is rear slippage is when I notice it, but I have to be driving a little aggressively to make it happen.

     

    It is the L model, seems to do it just when I am sliding on ice/snow as it re-gains control. Was just worried because when my transmission was going before, it would make he same thunking noise when I accelorated hard.

  9. Thats a possibility with the lsd, but it sounds more like he awd delaying engagement. It is pretty high mileage. What tranny shop did you take the car to? Also where abouts in ontario are you?

     

    I took it to a Subaru mechanic in Cambridge, just a little family run business. I live in Brantford.

     

    Just took my car to my mechanic in Brantford yesterday, and something new I now have the alternator going in my car is it making some horrible noises, it is going in tomorrow to be replaced...Any ideas how long it takes to doan alternator? It is a L model 2.5L engine (if that makes a difference).

  10. Yes it is an automatic, had to replace the transmission in it about 2 years ago, at some point before I owned the car while getting a tranny service done someone must have broke a dipstick off in the transmission, I got a hole in the filter and when it got low on fluid the stick got caught in something. There was a bearing gone in it.

     

    I do not really know much about cars, I have been told by one mechanic that the oil leak is from the head and another that it is from the head and the seal between the engine and the transmission (that the seal is cracked).

     

    A couple oil changes ago I was told the rack is leaking, although I filled the power steering about 5 months ago because it was very low and since I have not had to fill it again...

     

    I also seem to get a loud banging noise if I am taking a corner in snowy conditions once the car recovers from sliding...You can feel a slight loss of traction and then when it re-gains control "BANG", like a low thunk noise from the back end...it is a little jarring sounds like something is going to break.

     

    thanks for the advise on the conditioner I will pick up a couple bottles Monday, and see how it goes...do I just add it to the coolant reservoir, or actually into the Rad?

  11. Hi everyone,

    I have been struck with the inevitable, dreaded "Head gasket Leak". I have a 2001 Subaru Forester with 324000kms (201324 miles), have an external head gasket leak, top up coolant about once a week (usually between full and low when topping up). Also leaking oil seem to need a quart or so between oil changes. Can anyone give any insight on how much time I might have before my poor car succumbs to all its aliments? I do about 3000kms/month (1864miles), I do not think at this point fixing it is a viable option, It has the head gasket leak, a transmission oil leak from the seal between the engine and the tranny,a transmission pan leak, and the rack is leaking power steering fluid.

     

    Thanks for your input in advance!

  12. A compression test might reveal whether the rings are worn enough to be allowing excessive blow-by. However, given the sensor oil-contamination, taking another look at the PCV could be helpful. You mentioned changing the PCV valve in the first post of this thread -- was the replacement an OEM Subaru part, and did you make sure that the associated ''plumbing'' is all clear? Also, has the new air filter become oil-coated?

     

    The PCV valve I picked up at part source I think it was Fram, so no not a Subaru part.

     

    I got the car back today with the new MAP sensor and within about 15mins I didn't think it was going to make it back to the mechanics, but no check engine light.

    I asked about the compression test and the vacuum test again, and they have said the same thing that the problem is intermittent so they can not see how that can be the problem, also they checked the exhaust system and

    said it seems fine, I am not sure what they did.

     

    They cleaned the throttle plate..??? (I think that is term they used)

     

    They check the fuel pressure if I recall correctly they said it was 41 or 42 psi..???

     

    I have left the car with them they are going to continue to work on it and see what they can do. I was wondering if anyone might be able to throw some more ideas on what they can check, they said they will do the compression test.

     

    As for the vacuum test what does that consist of?

     

    As for other bits of info.

     

    Fuel filter was changed about 3 weeks ago with what ever brand they carry at part source, I changed it and ran high grade gasoline with a bottle of injector cleaner through it.

     

    Spark plugs are NKG NGK (??) Platinum changed about 2 weeks ago

     

    The spark plug wires are Bosch changed about 6 months ago

     

    The transmission was changed out with a used one about 6-8 months ago

     

    Thanks everyone for all of your continued support! :)

  13. Hi Everyone,

    I just brought my car in the mechanic pulled the codes from it today and he said he got the same code as well as a code for a miss-fire on each of the cylinders and and one for the MAP sensor. So they cleaned the sensor and reinstalled this seemed to work but after about 15mins it started acting up again, so he is assuming it has shorted. He is suggesting replacing it, which is going to cost me about 600.00 with diagnostic time and parts and he is not sure if that will fix the problem.

     

    Has anyone experienced this, and does anyone know if it is likely to fix the problem. Also he said it is getting oil soaked because of oil blowby or something due to the mileage on the car (although he says it is not that bad). So if this is the case will it not just ruin the new sensor?

     

    I mentioned to him about a compression test but he said because the problem is intermittent the compression test would not be worth while. When he unplugged the sensor completely he said that the car has lots of power .

  14. Does it do this as soon as it starts or only after it warms up? Could be a bad O2 sensor.

     

    How many miles on this car?

     

    Happens as soon as the car is turned on or within a minute or so. The car has 277,000kms I have had it since 198,000kms so I do not have the repair history on it before that. Since I have had it I have replaced the transmission, an axle, front output seal, and some other minor stuff like plugs wires etc

×
×
  • Create New...