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Just in case I ever need to do it, what do you mean by «inners»?

The regular temp gauge on my 96 Brighton - no connection to the ECU - is «buffered». The «normal» position of the gauge needle corresponds to a range of at least 20 degrees. I think «normal» corresponds to the range of temps between opening and closing of the thermostat.

I had a burnt valve in cyl no 2 a couple of years ago. The guide had moved and was preventing the valve to close completely. The machine shop replaced the guide with a bronze one.

Where is this other switch? Not on the clutch pedal itself on my car for sure. 96 Brighton.

That's exactly what it is. When you push in the clutch you complete the path from the starter relay to the ground. That's why i think the OP clutch switch is not defective cause his car would'nt even start.

There's only one switch on my clutch pedal stem. Brighton. No cruise control.

Since the clutch starter defeat switch is ground for the starter relay, would'nt a bad switch prevent the car from starting ?

Check this out. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76990

1) IT's normal for the lines not to be aligned after even one rev of the belt. 2) Is this your first belt change? What marks did you use on the pulleys, Not the arrows I hope. 3) If you tried starting the car without the crankshaft pulley on, how is the crankshat sprocket being held in place? It's been a while since my last belt change, but I thing the pulley is what is holding the sprocket in place. If this sproket is not exactely where it should be, it wont trigger the crankshaft position sensor and the car will not start. Hope this helps.

Did you try thightening the bolts that hold them to the steering column and the rack? I had play in the steering and that was it. No clunk though. Just in case it's that simple. Good luck!

Makes sense. Thanks.

Are you sure of that OB99? When I replaced the intake manifold (and all that comes with it) after having replaced an exhaust valve, I misconnected the oil pressure sender wire and the light was coming on when the wire was off the connection. 96 Legacy also.

I put muffler repair cement in there and it last's more than a year. Repeat until not possible anymore...

I think your son might have gone on spring break in more ways than one. Sorry, could'nt resist

Brightons seem to come in different versions. Mine, a 96 still driving strong, had no tach (installed one), no AC but a rear wiper. I actually like the manual crank side windows and dont miss the AC.

Salt belt? No. I would call that brine soup if you want to know the truth! You're probably right about the corrosion. I will wait for warmer temp before I have a look at it. Have a good day.

I just got a P0141 or Downstream O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. Am i right in thinking I can let this go for quite a while whitout any driveability problems? Thanks in advance.

If it has not been done recently, replace the fuel filter. Maybe that's the problem. You probably need a new one anyway. And while you're at it replace the air filter. You probably need that also. G.

The only time I had steering slop, it was due to one of the univesal joints between the steering column and the steering rack being slack. I tightened one bolt and the problem was fixed. You might have a look there first since it's so easy to fix. Watch out, there are two inline universal joints there, and in my case the problem was with the second one (closest to the steering rack). It's a little out of view if you just look casualy. Good luck!

I'm no alternator expert but I strongly beleive that 15,6 volt is too much. Something's wrong with your alt cause it's sometimes reading low and sometime reading high. I think it's time you buy a digital multimeter (cheap) and do a series of tests. Just connect the meter's leads at the battery posts when the alt is charging. Look for something closer to 14 volts.

Thanks for the info. G.

Does that mean that if I dont feel or hear any grinding, I'm ok ?

Question: I can readily understand that gear oil that is too "slipery" will make changing gears a little harder cause of less friction on the synchros (is that what you're saying?) but how would that lead to trany destruction on a road car? Just want to know. G.

IIRC, the battery cable came with both connectors already attached. Maybe you could also pick up felt «doughnuts» that you put under both connectors to isolate them from the battery top. Finish the job by smearing dielectric grease, vaseline or about any other kind of grease on the terminals. Then, you should be ok for a long time.

It's that easy! Just be sure the replacement cable is not too short... Mine was a little longer than the original but that caused no problem. Happy new year!