frag

Add 96 to that. At least on the Brighton.

It's not inside the dash but lower. Remove the carpet on the pass side where it goes up the fire wall. You'll probably have to remove the glove box to have complete access to it. There's a metal cover there held by screws. Remove and the ECU is underneath.

By your own video, you have code 35 and not 45. Reading Haynes (which i suggest you buy): Purge control solenoid valve. Purge control solenoid remains in the ON or OFF position during operation. I think this has to do with the Evaporative Emission Control System. If it's like on the 96, there's a black plastic canister at the right front of the engine compartment. One of the vac lines coming from it will lead you to the aformentioned solenoid. Maybe a vac line is leaking or disconnected. Good luck!

And worst of all this will slightly ovalise the wheel stud holes and will make it impossible to realy have a centered wheel afterwards.

To separate the motor and transmission, use a putty knife blade on each side at the top. It's so thin it will easily go in without doing any damage. Once the two cases have begun to separate the rest is easy. When i did this I then used a second blade I slided against the first one and then hammered a big flat blade screwdriver between the two putty knife blades. HIH

Brilliant! I was asking cause it's not necessary to do that on my car. I should remember it's not everbody who has the chance of having a 2.2 L engine under the hood.

Excuse my barging in, but... In the first article, there's a part I dont understand the reason for: «Remove the air cleaner upper case, air flow meter and air inlet boot as an assembly. On SVX, remove the power steering hose tie-wrap on the right side of the engine.» Why do that to remove one fuel injector?

It's now nearing 15-20 inches around my place and the wind is howling and lots of snow is still falling.

Same here in Montreal. Plus i just saw and heard a bolt of lightening right in the middle of all that snow falling. Impressing.

If it's anything like in Canada, you can record a conversation you are part of. What you cannot record (without a court order) is a conversation between two other people.

And 70.52 from 1stSubaruParts. My dollar worth.

I wonder why also. The biggest discrepancy I experienced was for a cam sensor. Dealer in Montreal wanted 160$ and I got it for around 20$ at 1stSubaruParts.

Online discount dealers will sell you the OEM part for the price previously quoted by fnlyfnd.

What did you do? Replace or repair?

Since when have they been making that part plastic? On my engine, it's steel (96 2.2L)

I recently replaced this plate on my 96 2.2L engine and it was plastic and it was black. It did'nt seem to be leaking but since I had the part and the engine was out, il replaced it with the metal plate anyway.

I have always been using Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in my power steering and it seems to work perfectly (been more than six years now).

One possibility: the sudden pressure of the overfill punctured a soft rust spot on the fill pipe going to the tank. It's notorious to rust prematurely due to protective plastic shroud that collects wet dirt around the pipe. You could check that by removing the right rear wheel.

It's for them to find (lemon law?) but my guess is coolant temp sensor or coolant temp sensor circuit. Your symptoms are almost exactly those of my former Loyale when the temp sensor failed.

Compression good at 125 psi ? I recently made a compression test on my engine cause it had a rough idle and because disconnecting the plug or injector on no 2 cyl did'nt make a big difference. I had 195 psi on 1,3,4 and 120-5 on number 2. Removal of the head showed a burnt exhaust valve on cyl 2. So, maybe 125 psi is not such a good reading except if all the other cylinders show the same reading. My .02$ (edit) I also have a 96 2.2L brighton.

Just to be sure it's the injector, I would make a swap and see if the problem migrates with the injector. Nothing was also happening when I disconnected injector no 2 on my car but the exhaust valve was the culprit. Good luck!

Call it mechanical apartheid. A very dark and not very well known segment of Fuji Heavy Industries history. But even well hidden and shameful things have a tendency to leak out.

I got a complete set from 1stSubaruParts for my 96 2.2 L and they fit perfectly. Three of the wires are of the exact same lengt, only one is a little longer. I think it is for cyl no 4 but I might not remember correctly.

Before doing anything expensive or complicated, have a look at the universal joint binding the steering column to the rack. Follow the steering column as it exit the firewall on the engine side and you'll find THEM. There two in line and in my case it was the second one (closest to the rack) that needed a turn of the wrench. Let's hope it truns out to be as easy as that.

Just watch out with the sanding paper, any grit falling into the cylinders will catch onto the rings and grind some nice litlle scratches into the walls. A word to the wise.