frag

Argh..sigh..I wish I was maried to Jessica.

+ 1 on the coolant temps sensor.

You might want to know that it took a 3 foot 1/2 drive breaker bar to undo the head bolts on my 96 2.2L. They were a lot easier to reinstall. Good luck!

Thanks! I love repairs that dont cost a thing. The door knob was collecting dust in one of my misc parts bin and I already had the tap. The yard guy was stupid cause I would gladly have given him a 5$ for the button and how often does one need a used complete parking brake rump roast.?

Well I found a solution to my problem: broken parking brake lever release button. The guy at the scrap yard (only one at a reasonable driving distance) insisted that I buy the complete lever assembly at 50$ . So I took a black plastic cupboard door knob (mushroom style), opened up the mounting hole to 5/16 and cut some NF32 10 threads. With a small washer between handle and spring, it screwed in perfectly, works and is not that bad looking. In case it could be of help to someone having the same problem. 96 Brighton.

1) Nice tool. Where do you insert the blade of that tool, between the shaft and seal or between the seal and seal hoder? 2) One way of doing it more easily and without damage with a screwdriver is taking a cheap blade screwdriver and bending the tip slightly to one side. Insert it between the seal and the shaft while straightening the handle toward the shaft getting the tip of the blade AWAY from the shaft. It's the tip of the blade that scores the shaft. Then, taking the lip of the seal holder as a fulcrum point you push the handle down, taking out the top part of the seal.

Hi, same thing here. According to my accessory voltage gauge, the alt is not over charging. I think either the battery casing is craked where the hold-down part exert a pressure on it (too tight?) or the caps are leaking. If you find the exact cause, i'd like to know. I'll do same. Bye!

Since scrap yards are far away around here, i'm trying to fabricate the button with my miniature metal lathe. I'm not very optimistic about the probability of getting an answer on this but l'll try anyway. Difficult to get to that threaded rod inside the handle to measure it's exact diameter and pace (one of the 12 mm bolt holding the handle assembly refuse to let go and I'm afraid it must be treaded underneath the floor in a rusted area and I dont want to break anything). It seem to be metric and approx 4.5 mm by 0.75mm. Can someone confirm this? Thanks for any reply.

Thanks a lot guys! So much knowledge here it can make one lazy

Good question. I think they are the same people that told her that the four boots were toast and then only 3 Seems fishy to me. Some people think women are easy prey when it comes to car repair. Happened to a former girl friend that was driving my car. I would even supect they slit the boots themselves. Maybe I'm a little paranoïd...:cool:

The black push button on the end of the parking brake lever broke and came out with the spring behind it. My parking brake does'nt click and lock anymore. The button is broken just above the part of it that threads into the end of a «stud» down there. I suppose I will have to replace the whole lever. Is there an easier and less costly cure? Someone ever had the same thing happen?

The oil pressure light takes too much time to go out, it's almost instantaneous on my car. I installed a T fitting where the idiot light sender connects and installed the gauge at one end of the T and the sender at the other end. I dont remember what the size of the threads were though. Good luck!

My unexpert opinion is you should keep away from this «reputable» shop. 1) They diagnosed a bad coil which turned out was not the problem. 2) You dont need to disassemble an engine to diagnose a sticking or burnt valve. 3) It seems very unlikely that valves would start sticking or failing in two opposed cylinders at exactly the same time. My .02$

I got mine from an alt and starter rebuilder place. 20$ Can for the contact AND the disc plunger contact. One caveat: When you thighten the contacts, it's easy to move them out of flat. That will create a condition where the plunger disc will contac one side before the other. The disc (spring mounted) can adapt to this situation to a point but sooner or later it will stop functionning. Happened to me.

Hi, Wait for an expert answer, but yours look exactly like mine and I had a look at them quite recently. My car is also a 96 Brighton and the lash adjusters are hydraulic. Telltale sign = the small bleed holes on top of the rocker arms. If you remove the rockers keep them in the same upright position (bleed holes on top) and you will be able to reinstall without having to adjust or prime anything. (edit) I thought mine were clean but yours are sparkling!

When mine stopped working cause of corosion, I bypassed it and have had no problem since. I still push the clutch in when I start as it has become a habit so no safety problem there (I'm the only driver). If you wish, you could bypass it with a switch and use it as a supplementary anti theft device.

What he said and the machine shop that did the valves on my left head told me that they reuse the same head bolts on 2.2L Subaru engines. (edit) And a mechanic working at a dealership in Montreal told me the same thing.

Yes, the large diameter of this seal makes it specialy difficult to drive in correctly without much experience and the right tool. I had neither so the seal is slightly pass were it should be (but not pass the point where the crank diameter changes I think) and very very slightly crooked. I thing I should cross all of my fingers...

I pushed mine a little too far also:eek: , but not much. No leak yet, but I'm crossing my fingers. That's about a month ago.

That's fourupmanship and it's not in the dictionnary!

:burnout: :burnout: Slightly upward profile view with transparent body. :-p

You need to add two more...

Ya. A question of very limited time, transportation to the machine shop (32 kilometers by bicycle in hilly back country dirt roads) and the fact that the right head compression test had shown 195 psi in no 1, 3 (also in 4) and 120 in no 2 for the left head. In retrospect, it was not a bad decision cause (1) I finished the night before the morning i was due retruning the hoist and (2) the engine runs and idle super smooth since. I'll probably do the other head next spring. No garage. I'll probably try doing it with engine in the car and without removing the intake completely. I'll report on how it went.

I was tinking valves also. Did you have a very close look at the valves when you replaced the gaskets? Maybe you should do a compression check to see if the roughness is not caused by compression differences between the cylinders.

Thanks for all answers. The fact is I did all of that and more when I had the valves done on the left head : motor out, intake removed, timing belt, all idlers, tensionner, seals, O rings, rear main, separator plate (it was the plastic one of course but was not leaking; since I had the new part, I replaced it anyway), plugs, cables, all of the clutch components, flywheel resurfaced, etc. All of the vac hoses were OK. I was asking the question cause I want to do the valves on the right head also as preventive maintenance (nothing wrong with them right now) and was wondering if I had to go to all the trouble just to remove and replace one head. Thanks again.