frag

I asked this question in another thread and got no answer. Since I plan on having the valves done on the other head in the future, i'd like to know the answer in advance so I know how to prepare. QUESTION: is it possible to remove and replace a head with gasket of course without completely removing the intake manifold. When I did the left head, the removal and replacement of the intake manifold with all the wires and hoses is what took most of my time. Is it possible (has it been done by some of you) to just remove the bolts holding the manifold and lift it an inch or so without disconnecting everything and be able to remove and replace the head? It would seem possible to me but what do i know... Thanks in advance.

The one I bought (in the neighbourghood of 10$ IIRC) fitted directly into a 1/4 inch drill chuck. I think it was white. There might be different models.

What I fing interesting and very much surprising - but cannot make anything of - is seeing the tach needle fall to zero without the engine stopping.

I'm not an expert but I would keep away from anything metallic on a soft aluminum surface, except scraping with a rasor blade with the cutting edge trailing. Better still, I got something from NAPA that works great. It's called a «soie» in french. Dont know the english conterpart. It's round with special plastic bristles and can be used with a fast electric drill or better with a small air cutter or grinder (the faster it turns the less pressure you have to apply). It removes all of the gasket remains without gouging or scratching the aluminum. Beware though. They make them for cast iron blocks AND for aluminum blocks (and heads). Make sure you buy the right one. The wrong one will damage the aluminum.

You'll save tons of money doing it yourself. I'm totally amateur and replaced the left head gasket myself a few weeks ago while having the valves done by a machine shop. Removing and replacing the heads and gaskets is easy, what's not so easy is removing and replacing the intake manifold with all it's wires, hoses, etc. It's not that difficult but time consuming. That brings a question I'd like to ask the more experienced here (Nipper, Grossgary, etc.) Would it be possible to remove and replace the heads without removing the intake manifold completely. It seems to me I could have just removed the bolts and lift it a little without disconnecting eveything instead of removing it entirely like I did. What do you think?

You can add my name to your list of ladies.

A couple of weeks ago, I replaced mine with an OEM clutch kit from 1stSubaruparts (Auburn Subaru). The machine shop that resurfaced the flywheel removed a few thousands more on the outer crown (where the pressure plate bolts on) to give it more grip when needed. That's a road you might take. I'm very satisfied with the results. Good luck!

I have a blank switch insert in the dash (in fact a couple of them since I have a Brighton). I removed it and installed two small bolts about 3/8 of an inch apart with only the head protruding thru the switch insert on the driver's side). I then removed the starter's solenoid wire and connected it to a wire with a blade connector. On the other end (thru an existing grommet in the firewall), this wire is soldered to one of the previous bolts behind the switch insert. I then took another wire soldered to the back of the other small bolt and connected the other end to the starter solenoid with a female blade connector. What you have is then an open electrical circuit to the starter's solenoid. When I want to start, I take a coin and bridge the two bolts heads. You can also revert to the standard setup in a few seconds. The bolts heads are very unconspicuous and I think the chances of someone trying to steal the car finding the trick is statistically low. And much easier to do than to explain . I might add the kill switch to the fuel pump. thanks.

One more thing. This might seem obvious, but it was not the case for me at the beginning of the operation. I found out by trial and error. It's better to position the hoist hook not in the middle of the chain connected to the front and rear lift points of the engine but somewhere closer to the front lift point. The hook should be placed so that when the engine gets free it will hang with the same tilt bacward it has when bolted to the trans. Moreover, it will then be much easier to reconnect the engine back to the trans. If the hoist is pulling the motor staight up the bottom studs threads might catch on the trans. Lubricating them might help also. I'm afraid this is the extent of my competence on this subject. Good luck!

Cable or hydraulic?

Usually, when the engine and trans crack apart, the worst is over and the rest is a balancing act with the hoist. Try finding an engine position where the motor is not exerting a downward nor an upward pressure on the trans. Then take the engine into your arms and do a little twist dance. Some prefer to rock and roll. Break dancing is not recommended.

Did you lift the transmission enough for the engine supports studs to clear the front crossmember ? The engine and trans have to move up a bit before the engine can move forward. You can jack up the trans from below or - if you have to move the car, being unable to move the hoist (which was my case) - you can lift it with the hoist while it's still bolted to the engine and keep the trans lifted with a steel cable going under the trans and wrapped around the front strut towers bolts (with a steel cable puller completing the circuit). If the engine supports are clear, position the hoist or the car so the chain is pulling the engine forward a bit. Then align the engine the best you can with the trans and wiggle it up and down and side to side. If you already have a 1/2 inch gap, put something in there and try prying it apart more. I was lucky being able to do this alone about ten days ago but it's normaly a two men job. Putting it back together is even more touchy.

I really want to know. Not trying to be a wise guy. What's the point, except esthetics, of having big wheels and small (thin) tires? Formula 1 cars dont have them, Nascar cars dont have them and rally cars dont use them. Dont flame me, I just want to understand. Thanks in advance.

According to Haynes, for a 97, that's what you should have if your probing the disconnected connector on the ECU side : ground terminal and «reference terminal» You should have variable voltage 0,5-1.0 to 4.5-5.0 volts only if you backprobe the ground terminal and the «signal» terminal while mooving the throttle. With the connector in a vertical position, snap connection to the right, ground is on top, ref is just below and signal is at the bottom, according to the drawing shown. Hope that helps.

Thanks. Will do.

Here's what I do when i replace a belt and it has worked perfectly for the amateur I am the two times i replaced mine the last time having been this wenesday. I use an OEM belt : you can trust the marks on it. In my opinion, if you just align the marks on the camshafts and crankshaft sprockets and slap a belt on them without counting the teeth between the marks (the marks on the belt just do that work for you), the minute you unpin the tensionner the sprokets marks might just not align anymore with the cover or engine marks. Happened to me the first time i did the belt and I had to remove and recompress the tensionner two or three times. I first make the sprockets marks alignments with the marks on the cover (camshaft) and front of the engine (crankshaft) and then I slap on the belt taking care to put the cam marks (continuous) and the crank mark (dotted) on the belt in synch with the other marks. At each point, I clip the belt on the cams and crank sproket with big spring clips you can buy in every harware store. So there's no jumping of the belt while you're installing it. Then if the sprokets have moved a little, I realigned them with the marks on the engine and covers to be sure everything is alright and I release the tensionner. If all three marks align at each point before you release the tensionner, there will be no bad surprise. Worked perfectly both times I did it. It might seem a little complicated to someone doing this all the time but sometimes what works for an amateur is differnet than what works for a pro. In case it could help.

That puts me at ease. But why the different treatment for the right and left cams ?

I suppose it's the same with a manual trans. To bad I did'nt know that before now. How long does a trans front input shaft seal last normally. My car has 150 K miles. Since there is no pressure behind it and that the trans is tilted upward some, i guess it can last a long time. ???

Like he said. You have to lift the engine a bit. Not sure, but I think you have to unbolt the front part of the trans stay or the trans will prevent the engine to lift.

What do the guru's here think about retorquing the head bolts after a time. Do I leave them alone or... And if it's better retorquing, what do i do exactly? Thanks in advance.

I mean the cap at the back of the engine in which the back end of the cam goes, on the driver's side. I hope I did'nt miss anything there. I did'nt remove the cap (it was not leaking) but i felt with my finger and looked inside with a strong lamp and no O ring. Is your 94' O ring sealing against the cam or is it sealing the cap against the engine? And do you have an O ring where I say I have one?

One last thing. Haynes shows an O ring at the back of the cam. None was there but there was an O ring in front on the back of the cam seal support or housing behind the cam seal. I replaced that of course.

Forgot to say that I replaced the separator plate (plastic to metal), the rear crank seal (put it a little deaper than it was before, so crossing my fingers) but kept the left cam seal that I had replaced 40,000 miles ago and which seemed in excellent condition. I was very careful removing and replacing the seal support sliding it over a very oily cam shaft and I'm pretty sure I did'nt damage it. And new motor mounts.

Thanks Olnick. Nothing war stiking out of the backpack except once for a two feet breaker bar I bought in town to release the head bolts (12 pans heads! Had never seen that before). They are a bear to remove but quite easy to torque back. Since i'm a very good cyclist this was a little exhausting, but a fun part of the affair. The morning's light was magnificent, nobody on the road, just me and my flywheel chugging along...

No. I intended to take some to help me put things back together but I forgot the camera in Montreal.