frag

You have a point there. And maybe using the back seat... would push that efficiency way up there getting real value from that stupid evaporating fuel.:drunk:

How did you or will you make that bolt stay put now ? What was stripped ? The bolt's threads, the crank's thread, or both ?

If the bolt turns freely and nothing is happening - not coming out and not thightening - that means almost nothing is hoding that bolt in there. If any of the threads were engaging, this would not happen. So i really dont understand the idea of using an impact wrench, the starter method or bolt extractor. Those methods are useful when the bolt does'nt budge and is NOT turning. That the opposite of what's happening in your case. Try prying it out lightly with a screwdriver while unscrewing it and see what happens. I would be surprised this need enough pressure to break anything. My 2 cents.

When I had a rear bearing replaced on my Loyale at the dealership a few years ago, the mech wanted to replace the shaft also saying that, since the part of the shaft that spins inside the bearing's grease seal was pitted, the seal would destruct quickly and i would soon need a new bearing. Since then I've read similar stories here and elswere. Maybe repetitive bearing failures have this as a cause. About the Loyale: I refused to have the shaft replaced at the time cause i did'nt have the money. The mech polished the pitted section with fine emery paper but thought it would'nt be enough. Since the car was stolen less than a year after, I dont know what the outcome would have been.

And if you have a problem while doing it, ask Olnick. He helped me last time I cleaned mine and all went well. Thanks again Olnick!

Ya, you're right, I meant the marks on the belt wont coincide with those on the crank and cams which is irrelevant to our disscussion. So, I think the bottom line is you're right and I'm worng : installing the belt with crank mark up and both cam marks down (6 o'clok) would work (as far as I can figure). Which brings my credibility one notch (at least) down. Well there is always tomorrow...

Sorry OB99W, I did'nt want to imply that you were not credible, just that a few members here are more credible, have more experience and mechanical knowledge than you and me (but I'm talking for myself cause I dont know you.) As for the rest, I think I will get back at it tomorrow and see if you've succeeded or not in convincing me. Have a good night! P.-S.: One thing I am absolutely certain of, cause I tried it last time I replaced my belt, is that the three marks do not go back together at 12 O'clock every second revolution of the crank. So that's a part of your theory that does'nt work.

Of course. But that's beside the point. The point is crank mark up cam marks down will or will not set correct timing ? I dont think it will because of the triggering tabs on the driver's side cam sproket, those that trigger the cam prosition sensor wich in turn - in synch with the crank position sensor - triggers the spark AND the injectors. That will not be at the right place at the right time. The ecu will see a discrepancy between both position sensors and the car will not start. I presume... Can some expert here (nipper ?) give a credible verdict?

Maybe I'm (really) missing something here but i dont think crank mark up and both camshaft marks down would work. The timing of the cams in relation to the crank would be 180° off.

I remember this being discussed a couple of years ago on this board. Several members here were experiencing the same condition, me included and, IIRC, Commuter. We came to the conclusion that AWD meant a lot of moving components between engine and wheels (trans, diffs, shafts, viscous coupling, etc.) and that this was, for Subarus at least, the result of normal play in the system. Of course it does'nt get tighter as the car grows older. If this only happens when, at slow speed, you go from no throttle to light throttle and back, my opinion would be that this is «normal» in the sense that nothing you will do to your car - as seems to be the case up to now - will cure it. For my part I learned to live with it by adapting the way i play with the gas pedal at slow speed. My 2...

I remember this being discussed a couple of years ago on this board. Several members here were experiencing the same condition, me included and, IIRC, Commuter. We came to the conclusion that AWD meant a lot of moving components between engine and wheels (trans, diffs, shafts, etc.) and that this was, for Subarus at least, the result of normal play in the system. Of course it does'nt get tighter as the car grows older. If this only happens when, at slow speed, you go from no throttle to light throttle and back, my opinion would be that this is «normal» in the sense that nothing you will do to your car - as seems to be the case up to now - will cure it. My 2...

Hi subyluvr2212, I'm missing something here : how can the 3 marks be lined up (all pointing at 12 o'clock) if the crank is rotated 180° (crank mark pointing down) ? Did you mean 360° ?

Thanks virrdog, good info. I was under the impression that the smoke was supposed to go from black to puffy white. Good to know it's the reverse. I will then certainly go at it again soon.

Never heard of a modern radiator without an overflow reservoir. I'm surprised your mechanic was not able to tell you that. Install one asap.

With all due respect, I dont think so: if one looks at the space between two teeth (looking at the left of the picture), if he was to move the belt one tooth to the right (looking at the picture) the mark on the belt would be to the right of the mark on the pulley by exactly the same amount it is now on the left. That's why there are 40.5 teeth between the crank pulley mark and the drivers side cam mark and not 41. There is exactly half a tooth of difference between the mark on the belt and the mark on the cam pulley. In my opinion, all is right. But Olnick, I would count again if I were you. Good luck!

HI Olnick, If the job is not already done and if the covers are still open, here's something that will definitely help you. It's taken from Endwrench: «Here’s a great check — there should be exactly 44 teeth between the mark on the crank sprocket and the one on the passenger’s side cam pulley, and 40.5 teeth between the crank mark and the driver’s side cam mark.» Always good to double check : the marks AND the tooth count. Good luck!

I finaly was able to get some water down the throttle body of my engine yesterday. Let's say first that I cured about half of my idle roughness by replacing the positive battery cable (found out the battery end was much corroded when I replaced my starter). The water treatment seemed to improve things a little bit more and maybe most of you would be happy with my engine's idle but I remember I had silk smooth idle not so long ago and I'm trying to regain that. I removed the small vac hose that's just upstream of the throttle plate and replaced with a same diameter hose (the other end of the original hose is a bear to remove and replace). I then proceeded to suck from a small glass jar a few onces of water at a time. Maybe I was too timid and will try again shortly with greater quantities of water. Nothing black came out of the exhaust, puffy white vapour right from the strart. Does it mean there was no carbon to speak of ? Also, since the free circulation of electricity seems to be a factor, I will shortly clean every ground I will find. Oh yes, I almost forgot: right after the water treatment a small hesitation I had at slow speed (when i accelerated llightly in second or third at slow speed), the kind that rocks you lightly back and forth, was completely gone. And finaly, if i tried water it's because two previous applications of seafoam did nothing for my idle roughness.

Thanks Cookie. I guess we're like our cars, we always pull through.

Hi mtsmiths, You're lucky cause there is no playing in the snow or on ice here in «hard winter city» Montreal. It's 50°F and raining outside right now and no snow on the ground. Grass everywhere in the park in front. Global warming is a hoax, it's only local (like in every locality...). Went through some hard times lately and wished I had a jug of Purple Jesus Pigeons outside my window yesterday seemed to be doing their mating dance. They must think it's already springtime. I just hope for their offsprings that their reproductive system is more clever than they are. Take care.

I replaced my starter a couple of weeks ago and your bolt looks a lot like the top bolt holding the starter body to the trans and engine.

Glad you're OK and that the repairs were not costly. It's a rather hard initiation to pole vaulting...

Joyeux Noël !

To me, a Brighton is like a track cycle*, only what's basic and essential. I'm already sad about the fact that my next Subary will probably impose electricaly operated windows on me. But that's years away. I added a tach though. I think that's essential and should never be left out. Poll: How many drivers here perfer real basic cars? * And dont tell me track cycles have no brakes nor gear change : my comparison is "mutatis mutandi" :cool:

You seem to be looking at the right sensor. If the sensor is bad, you're out of luck. 90-94 Legacies have a 130$ (at 1stSubaruparts) sensor. After that the part is different and came down to around 20$.

IIRC, you have to disconnect and remove it to change the T belt. Are your sure it's reconnected properly? I forgot to reconnect mine when I replaced the belt, but the car would'nt start at all. Good luck!