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Proof that one can get almost anything out of this board including wise marital counsel. Anything to do with Maryland ?

Would like to know the answers to those questions also. Thanks in advance.

I bought SeamFoam at Carquest in Montreal. I've got black sooth in the tail pipe, so I think my engine is running rich and might have carbon in the cylinders head. Evevrything else is Ok: O2 sensor, temp sensor, plugs, wires, fliters, IAC has been cleaned, no detectable vac leaks, etc. Moreover the engine runs perfectly except at idle. That's why I want to try decabornizing with water. Seafoam helped but did not cure the problem completely. I'll keep you posted on the results.

It's 16° C. here today (warm front) but the temp will be much lower tomorrow. I'm going to the country tomorrow and it will be -15° C during the night there. Red wine keeps one warmer than beer though. Have a good week end Cookie.

Maybe I was misled, but I read over an over on this board that the boxer engine was prone to carbonizing. That's why I thought that after more than 150 k miles, this might be responsible for the idle roughness.

Thanks for the basics, Nipper , but i was talking about ported vac, just (like I wrote...) upstream of the throttle plate. I still would like to know how come there is vaccum (very little but some) there at idle (when the throttle plate is closed). I thought that all the air was going thru the IAC valve at idle and none around the closed throttle plate. If so, it would mean that air is sucked passed the throttle plate when closed and that could be the reason for my slightly rough idle. So I ask again, is it normal to find a little vac upstream of the throttle plate at idle? And since i'm asking questions, is ther anyone out there that cured a rough idle by decarbonizing with water?

Because the gauge is not made to react to temperature changes in a linear manner. I tested that once and, IIRC, the gauge went to it's normal position at around 160° F and did'nt move until it reached near 190-200° F when the fans kick in. I did'nt disconnect the fan to push my test further (), but I presume that the gauge needle starts to rise from «normal» a little above 200° F. I think the idea is that «normal» coolant temp is over a range of degrees.

On my 96 2.2 L, there are two sensors side by side under the right rear intake plenum, one for the gauge (one wire), one for the ECU (two wires). With this info the ECU controls fuel and the rad fans. On the 1.8 L engine of my 92 Loyale, there was a temp sensor on the rad itself (right side) solely for controling the rad fan.

I intended to use the same small vac hose (connected to the throttle body just upstream of the throttle plate) I used when i tried Sea Foam. The vac pull is very light at idle and becomes stronger as you open the throttle. Where would you spray the water? Makes me wonder: is it normal for even a very light vaccum to be present there at idle or should there be none at all when the throttle plate is closed???

The only aftermarket cam belts I've seen were for a 1.8 1992 Loyale. You could see immediately that the quality was not the same. A lot thinner for example. I would'nt risk it either.

I want to do just that to see if it could get rid of a light but anoying roughness at idle that nothing else seems to be able to cure. 1) I'm not afraid of water lock cause I know how to meter the water in the throttle body a little at a time thru a small vac hose, just like I did when I used Sea Foam. 2) What I'm afraid of is killing the cat. Anyone know about this. How will the cat react to steam going thru it ? 3) Last question: how much water should I use for it to have a real cleaning effect ? Thanks in advance.

This could help. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf and this: http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/072001_08.pdf

I would think twice before replacing the oil pump. Between 90 K miles (when I bought the car) and 150 K miles (present mileage), there were absolutely no detectable drop in oil pressure at similar rpm. I have an oil pressure gauge.

Is'nt that 0 percent efficiency, on the contrary?

Maybe I'm looking at doing the same with my car in a year or two. Could you give more details? How easy is it to bolt the new crossmember to the body. Are the original threaded holes still usable? What did you have to take off? Thanks in advance.

That's why it's a good idea to test the solenoid with a meter or a continuity device before closing the housing. If the contacts are not exactly at the same level (and it's easy to displace them a little when tightening their holding bolts) the contact will not be perfect on both sides of the plunger contact disc. It's a good thing though that this contact disc is spring mounted and can adapt to a small difference in the side contact positions.

He's flying too low? Seriously, question to those doing some serious racing (not street racing) : at what speed does a properly installed rear air foil begins to make a positive difference in handling ? I would guess at a faster speed than anything remotely possible on a public road but that's only intuitive.

I just replaced mine a few months ago. Easy. The contacts are in the solenoid housing right next to the starter motor. I got the contact from a starter rebuild place, but it seems from what I read here that you could get them from other sources. Make a search on this board and you'll find tons of info about starter conctacts replacement.

1)Street racing is dangerous not only for those who indulge in it but also for all persons sharing the same public streets or roads. 2)These persons have a right to make it known that they dont appreciate that kind of behaviour. 3)Street racers are not completely stupid and can maybe find some food for thought in what those concerned others have to say about street racing. If your neighbours are eventualy witness to someone breaking and entering your home, I hope they will not think that "If people want to break the law...let them. The cops will get 'em eventually". Cheers!

Is that why, at the beginning of some car races, gentlemen are the only one asked to start their engines ?

I takes the rest of us longer cause we factor in the time spent debating terminology. See the "Subary slow?" thread...

Being french speaking, i'm interested in this debate (still learning english) and it seems from your own links that both terms can be used. "A motor vehicle is a machine which incorporates a motor (sometimes known as an engine)" "An automobile (or motor car) is a wheeled passenger vehicle that carries its own motor" "Motor may also refer to: an engine Motor car or automobile Motor vehicle.

Naughty!

This is only a sample of one, but i use Mastercraft (Canadian Tire line of products) full synth in my manual transmission and have absolutely no problem shifting. I can even shift down to first while the car is still mooving a few kilometers per hour.

Is'nt an aluminum rad better with an aluminum engine ? The original is alu. Just asking.