frag

Errands as in running some errands. "2 a : a short trip taken to attend to some business often for another <was on an errand for his mother> b : the object or purpose of such a trip " What would you guys do without us Canadians? :cool:

Yes, i got that. But I thought that... 1) ...it was getting the thread on some politically icy surface and I felt you might not be up to it with your four seasons tires; 2) ...not being a true canadian ( ), it was'nt my duty to defend "our" collective economical honnor. :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) etc.

http://www.pfmmag.com/fall2003/fall2003severesnowtires.htm Reading the the first paragraph is quite enough. Lots of other tests confirm this.

Don't know, but we're all a little loony up here cause the season we call winter is not exactly the same as the season they call winter in california. Maybe that's where four seasons tires paradise is.

Tests have been made up here (Montreal) which show that four seasons tires suck when the time comes to brake on snowy-icy surfaces. Four seasons might be an acceptable compromise for traction, but, where winter brings snow and ice and when the wheather is very cold (rubbert of 4 S. becomes too hard), they are dangerous when comes braking time and when your life and that of others is at stake. My dollar worth of comment.

What kind of errants did you do ? Just in case it happens to me...

When I purposefuly ran my tank dry, the gauge had been below E for a while when the low fuel light finally came on.

Be aware that the low fuel light (a gas pump icon in the left lower corner of the gas gauge window) does not shine like the other lights just before starting. You have to run the car almost emply to see it light. I did this on my 96 Brighton once and I now know I have one.

The gauge sender is the single wire black one just underneath the blue one and to the right of the brown one. Don't know what the blue one is. Seems to be dangling free...

That's code 32, meaning oxygen sensor or oxygen sensor's circuit. Take care.

Mine is still grabbing at 150K miles.

One on each side at the front = 2

Maybe he's afraid to give rise to any rumour of Him having anything to do with with a blow job... Sorry!

A good idea might be to first drill a shallow pilot hole being extra careful to center it on the bolt and use the right size bit afterwards. Stop every now and then to insure that you're drilling in the right direction.

Did it twice: once on a Loyale and once on my present Brighton. Drilling out takes time but you only have to drill the threaded part of the bolt (an inch and a half?). Once done just put a longer bolt and lock nut. Holds very well and much easier to remove next time. Dont forgert lots of antiseize.

I'm also of the opinion that it could be the crank or cam sensor connection. Good luck!

I remember reading here that if you put your hand on the strut or spring while you spin the wheel, you will feel vibrations if the bearing is bad even if the wheel does'nt wobble or the bearing does'nt howl. Just thought I might pass it on to those that did'nt read it or do not remember.

I think you're only partially right. 10-30 oil has the base viscosity of 10 when cold and the base viscosity of 30 when hot. Nervertheless, hot grade 30 oil is thinner than cold grade 10 oil. Proof : when i start my car and it's cold outside, oil pressure is around 70-80 psi at idle and then goes progressively down until it's aroud 12 psi at idle when the engine reaches its operating temp. I use Mobil 1 10-30 but have seen the same thing happening with other oils.

In my case, I used a T fitting where the electrical pressure sender is (right below and behing the alt) and connected the mechanical sensor on one bar of the T and the regular electrical sender on the other side. Then you still have the idiot light working when pressure is at or near zero. I brought the pressure sender to my favorite part store and they found the right fittings for the job. I have no oil temp gauge though.

I've had some experience with ball joints pinch bolts first with a Loyale and then with my present Legacy. I broke the head of three of them and had to drill them thru and replace with bolt and nut. It holds very well, but drilling thru is not funny. On all of the others I used a acetylene torch (I have a portable set with small tanks). What seems to work best is heating almost to red the part in which the pinch bolt threads are. The female threads expand and the bolt can turn.

To such a point that non english speaking members like me can pass almost undetected.

Yes, I've been on this board a few years and the consensus is that the torque value found in the shop manual and in Haynes is not high enough and that something around 120 ft-lb is more like it. That's the torque value I used three years ago when I replaced my belt and the pulley is still in perfect shape. Good luck!

I had the same problem once. Here's what solved it. Maybe it will work for you. Look where the steering column exit the firewall on the engine side. Follow the column to where there are TWO universal joints in line just before the column connects to the steering rack (you can access it from above). In my case the second one (lowest one) was loose. A turn of the ratchet solved the problem. Good luck!

In Montreal, I get mine from Carquest.

I've installed a Fumoto years ago on my 96. Stories like this make me think I did the right thing. For those preoccupied with the possibility of something snagging the lever, it's not really a problem and by using different thickness of washers you can, if you're anal about it, install it so the control lever is tucked well away from anything that could snag it. My 2 cents.