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Watch out! There's a consensus here that this is way too little torque and will lead to nasty consequences. Most use at least 120 ft lbs. One of those being Emily at Crinc: she rebuilds motors...

You probably already know this but i would shoot brake cleaner at it: excellent cleaner and does'nt leave any residue. Happy new year!

When the positive cable became corroded on my 96 Legacy, I decided to replace it with an even bigger gage cable (the biggest I could find). Not very expensive. It's maybe the freshly washed car syndrome, but I felt the starter had more pep after that. YMMV.

When it's the solenoïd contacts, you always hear it clicking. The plunger moves but does'nt make contact. This sounds more like a problem with an ignition contact.

Exactly!

20 posts for a 17 mm nut! More helpful than that and this board should be called Mother Theresa's Ultimate board! ;-)))) Happy new year to all of you. Gilles

What he's showing us is the shroud around and under the fuel fill pipe. It's a frequent leak cause the shroud catches humid dirt and the fill pipe rusts. First thing to do is remove the shroud (plastic), clean the fill pipe and see where the leak is. Sand and repair with epoxy or special stuff made to fix fuel tank leaks. If it's bad enough that you have to replace the fuel fill pipe, report back and I will have some more advice to give you. Been there done that...

I second using a triangular file of the right size. That's what I did when I replaced my front axles and it worked. A lot of salt here also. Good luck!

Just above the hood release handle.

I use a putty knife to separate the trans from the engine. Dont see why it would'nt work removing the a.t. trans pan. It's the thinnest thing you can get in there and less likely to gauge the alu. If you really want to do this with precaution, use two putty knives. Insert one, insert the other using the first blade as an entry path and then gently tap a screwdriver in between. Works for me.

It's the small box with wires going to it just on the throttle body side of the air filter box.

On my 96 Leg, you can access the blower motor with some contorsions. Have a look just under and behind the glove box and you'll see if the motor is accessible without removing the globe box. If you have to remove it, get a Haynes manual or wait till someone tells you exactly how to proceed. Edit: have a look at another post on this page or on the preceding one: «blower motor makes whirring noises». http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106891

I bet you have a whole family of critters somewhere in there. Grey foam? dry? Liquid? Since you get no air at all, i presume the blockage is in the air inlet to the blower motor. You could have a look there. The motor is behind the glove box and accessible without removing the box in my car. In yours? Good luck!

Find an alt & starter rebuilder and they will sell you the contacts cheap. You have to tell them the exact make an model of starter or better bring them the old ones...if you have another mean of transport that is. Anybody on the east coast of the U.S.A. playing in the snow with their subies?

My bet is the break is'nt visible. The joint could be broken and not hang down at all. It's the way it's made, like a rod inside a socket: the shaft is turning freely inside this socket. Like others said, you have to replace the shafts anyway. It will solve your problem. Have a look. http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/articles/imagePage.php?imagesrc=112_0.jpg&imagealt=Cross section diagram of a CV joint&credit_to=&credit_to_www=

Your description of what's happening at the rear is normal. With a regular diff, if one wheel spins then the other gets no power. What's happening at the front is maybe the same. If you left CV is completely shot and no longer transmits power to the wheel, it's exactly as if your left wheel was spinning on bare ice. No power is getting to the right one. Check to se if the left half shaft is connected to the wheel. If not, that's the problem.

I have replaced two on two different cars. The firs time (a Loyale) the CEL was on for a long time (weeks) before the car had any serious symptoms (no start when hot and stallings). The last time I had the symptoms before the CEL came on. I would take the CEL seriously (check the connection to the sensor first though) and replace it. It's not very complicated but it's a little involved. Ill placement and lots of tubes and wires in the way. Finally, I dont remember the OEM sensor to be very pricey. I would use a Subaru one and not skimp on anything having a direct connection with the ECU. My two... G.

I've had one (Fumoto) on my 96 Brighton for at least five years. No problems and it makes changing the oil a piece of cake.

I second this. That's what's in my power steering pump reservoir and I never experienced any problem with the steering and it's real cold here during the winter. I also second those who told you to put on a new belt and give it the proper tension. Also spin the pump pulley by hand when you change the belt. Maybe there's a problem with the pump itself.

If you have no reason to think that they have been grossly overtorqued in the past, reuse them. Lots of guys here have done that (me included) with no problem at all. Anyway, I think Subaru says to reuse them.

Aside from the legal problem, if the O2 sensor is installed a few millimeters back of where it shoud normaly be, it is certaineley removed from the direct exhaust flow, but is'nt it still able to "sniff" the mixture and make a relatively close call on what's happening ? Just curious, cause my second O2 sensor is installed just like that cause the original threads were ruined (dont ask me how).

It also could be that the engine does'nt want to start when it's at operating temperature. If it's the case, the temperature sensor is usually the culprit. It tells the Engine Control Unit (computer) that the engine is cold when in fact it is hot. ECU directs the injectors to send to much fuel to the cylinders and the engine floods. Just a possibility. You usually get a Check Engine Light when that happens. Chekc if the motor constantly refuses to start when hot but not when cold.

What if they made more profit replacing the cat than the sensor... Just a tought.

Moreover, the pressure drops very rapidly. None left overnight and almost none after a few hours. I have a fuel pressure gauge.

What works for me... 1) Thoroughly cleaning the top part of the battery. Electrolyte there can make an electrical path from one post to the other. Small but enough... 2) Buying felt doghnuts that slide on the posts and rest under the connector impeding electrical leaks acroos the posts. 3) Smearing the posts with spark plug boot grease. YMMV.