frag

Quote:Originally Posted by frag Since it's a hot engine starting issue, if nothing else works, check the coolant temps sensor it might be telling the ECU that the engine is cold when in fact it is hot and flooding it. Quote: Originally Posted by b1pig When I got back home, I posted about this on several Subie forums. The unanimous observation was to replace the temp sender. I replaced the temp sender for the computer (not gauge) and the knock sensor at the same time. ^^^^^^ Read this not as "mad" but as "red faced". That's what happens when you read too fast.

Since it's a hot engine starting issue, if nothing else works, check the coolant temps sensor it might be telling the ECU that the engine is cold when in fact it is hot and flooding it.

Wow! 38,000!!! You're sending me tumbling outback_97 ! I need a valve!

Interesting. Thanks. What's a "tumble generator valve" ?

More knowledgeable members might contradict me on this, but I wouldn't drop the transmission just to replace the separator plate unless the leak was enormous, which it rarely is. Wait for a better reason to drop the trans and then replace it. Just my opinion.

There usually is a specific code for front or rear O2 sensor. Who pulled the code? If in doubt and unable to have more specific info, the front one is the most important (controls fuel trim) and is most likely to produce driveability issues if out of spec. Universal sensors are very good but you need to splice them into the existing connector (soldered connections are best). Be sure you get a sensor with the same number of wires than the existing one. Good luck!

Remove the lower bolt holding the caliper. Slide the caliper off the top pin. Buy special high temp grease (at any auto store). Clean and relube slide pin. Check that the rubber bellows sealing the caliper to slide pin is OK. You can do that with a simple ratchet set and for the price of the grease. Good luck!

Makes sense.

If that were true firstwagon, then the limitations imposed by all our user's handbooks about the doughnut spare wheel use would be absurd. Why then only 50 miles per hour and for a limited distance?

And not all Legacies. My 96 Brighton is permitted to keep its front two hooks:clap:

This has been thoroughly discussed a few years back and axle-to-ground height (rolling radius) does make a big difference. I tested this with a bicycle then and just did it again in the hall to refresh my memory. Just four revolutions of the wheels. 1) Same pressure front and rear: marks are both exactly at 6 o'clock at the end of the experiment. 2) One third the pressure in the front tire : when the front mark touches the ground on the fourth revolution, the rear one is 5- 6 inches late. Of course you have to put weight on the biccyle to have the lower pressure tire flatten somewhat. I would be ready to bet money that the same experiment would yield the same kind of results with car tires.

I know a relatively easy way of measuring real world rolling radius (including all the variables one would have to measure independently otherwise). Find a vacant parking lot or a traffic free length of street and scribe a chalk mark on all four tires sides (two on the same side would do in my opinion but why not be anal about it) where the tire contacts the ground. Drive in a straight line for 40 revolutions of one of the tires (you will maybe need a partner here). If there is a 1/4 inch difference in cricumference between front and rear tires, the marks will be 10 inches apart from each other at the end of the 40 revs. Much more precise than string measurment of the tire's circumference and it takes into account ALL of the variables including inflation. When I tried this with my old Toyo Spectrums (one year away from their dismise), the radial diff between the front and rear tires was less than half an ich after 40 revs. Only way in my opinion to know the hard truth about where your tires stand on this question of circumference difference. It's much easier and faster to do than to explain.

Thanks for the list JPX, but do you really have to remove bumper skin and headlights?

If the door is rigged like on my 96 Leg., just put a piece of ductape on the switch to keep the plunger in. You could also disable the door switch more permanently.

If it's anything like on my 2.2L, you can disconnect it with fingers or a pair of long nose pliers. Then push aside or if necessary disconnect some wires and hoses to get access to the sensor. A short lenght of extension between ratchet and socket is necessary to remove the sensor. The sensor you're after has two leads, not to be confused with the one, just next to it, and having only one lead (it goes to the temp gauge). Lower the coolant level a bit if you dont want to spill any. Good luck!

The older 2.2 L is non-interference

Originally Posted by 91Loyale Happens to everyone. Don't worry. If only all car troubles were this easy to solve. Yea, like: Leaking head gasket? No problem! Happened to all of us. Just flip the switch under the steering column you must have bumped with your knee and all will be OK.

On the 96 2,2L engine there is only one coolant temp sensor (two leads) both for engine management and for switching on the fans. There is another sensor (one lead) but it only sends info to the temp gauge. I dunno if the 95 2.2L is the same or different. To locate the coolant temp sensor make a search on this board and you'll find plenty of info (pics included) telling you how to locate, test and replace. Good luck!

Thanks! Is it not also phosporic acid ?

You dont remember what the brand name was?

I dunno it it's news, but I think it's the more controlled way of doing it. As long as the engine idles there is close to no vac (all depends on how thight the throttle plate closes) and almost no liquid enters the intake. The more you open the throtte the more cleaner is sucked in. For my first experiment, I just blipped the throtte and let idle, blip it again and let idle, etc. With this method the engine is in no danger of dying. Since the other end of the tube is hard to get at, I bought a similar inside diameter length of rubber tubing and I just removed the end connected to the throttle body, connected the new tube and plunged the other end in the cleaner bottle (I used a glass container to be able to monitor the speed at whicht the liquid enters the intake).

I think were seeing here a rather rapid progression from Seafoam to mouthfoam... My opinion is that the latter should be used very sparingly.

You might try the small diameter vac tube in the middle of the throttle body just over the throttle plate. Almost no vac at idle and more and more as you open the throtte. Much easier to control the rate at which the stuff enters the intake man.

On my 96 Brighton it's still like on the good ole Loyale : four spring clips and very easy to remove and replace. They dont build them like they.... etc.

It could also be the starter's solenoid's contacts. Do a search on this board and you'll find lots of info on how to repalce them. A real cheap fix and good for a long time. If the clic comes from the starter, chances are that it's the solenoid contacts.