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It is the electrical oil pressure sender. On my car I've connected a T fitting to the port with the sender on one end and a copper tube on the other leading to a mechanical oil pressure gauge. What is there to win???

Bravo! I hope I'll get an equally smooth ride when i do mine sometime this summer. You make it sound very doable. Thanks! Is my understanding ok that you use a bolt to shorten one of the downward leg of the chain Y ? Am I right that you can only do that with the tension off? Congrats again for a job nicely done.

Like the others said, no other way than to push your hand under there a little further and slide it sideways back and forth until you snag it. I've been there. Or maybe ask someone with more sensitive hands

Is that a Brighton?

Thanks! Only the second part was necessary, but too much explanation beats too little almost anytime. When's the exam?

Sorry!

Thanks for the explanation.

Can I ask a question prof? (This is my car fixing university...) Would it not be when you do not have current going to the injector that the ECU becomes suspect? If not the case, could you explain?

Maybe you are right, but I think it's extremely rare to see a fuel pump fail at that mileage*. I would have the fuel pressure checked before investing in a new pump. You might also check the voltage at the pump : if the pump runs unevenly, it could be cause of a bad connection, ground, relay, etc. * I have a 96 Brighton wagon with 146 K miles on it and I do the same kind of driving in about the same kind of weather and my pump runs just fine.

What happened to make an almost new pump fail? There is a round cover under the carpet behing the rear passenger side seat. This cover gives access to the inside of the gas tank and to the fuel pump and fuel gauge sender. I think that if you unbolt it, the rest is pretty intuitive. Other members might call me wrong on this, but I think that if you put your hand on the most recent Haynes (less than 20$) manual for the Legacy, the procedure will be the same even if your model year is not covered.

I always have problems opening the glove box when I lock it. Only advice I can give you (and I agree it's not much but it might work) is to keep trying. Try turning the key both ways while pushing and pulling it. Sometimes it works better when the key is not all the way in and sometimes it's the contrary. Good luck!

Cross-examination (): what are those 50 other persons doing to prevent ruining their collective night vision ?

Zen and the art of dipstick cursing.

I was a few times sent astray by a false cause-effect relation*. It's very tempting to conclude from one fact following the other that the former is the cause of the latter. Often true, but by no means always. So there's a strong possibility that your hard start situation is injector related, but dont rule out a coincidental failure of the temp sensor. *One example: when I was driving the Loyale, I stopped the engine inside an atomatic car wash and was unable to restart. I concluded that the problem was humidity related and I replaced the disty cap and rotor, and the plug wires. In fact, the problem was that I was trying to start the engine while it was still hot while the temp sensor was telling the ECU that the engine was cold = flooding.

****** **** :-p

If the threads are damaged maybe time to expoxy a Fumoto valve in place.

Could the "old style" tensioner be found also on the 96 2.2liters engine? Mine is a cylinder and piston style tensioner mounted horizontaly and pushing on a pulley from right to left (standing in front of the engine). Just to know if I have the bullet proof kind or not.

In case this could be useful. I'm pretty sure the normal level upper hole on the dipstick is for cold oil level measurement. When at operating temp, the oil level should reach the upper notch on the dipstick.

It's normal for the strut mounting bolt and nut to rotate with the tire, spring and strut. That's why the strut is bolted to a bearing.

If it's like on my 96 (and I presume it is) fluid comes from the same reservoir as the front sprinklers. The pump for the rear wiper is higher on the reservoir's side and pumps dry sooner than the front one. As for the reason the wiper is not functionning, since it did'nt stop suddenly but progressively, I would suspect rust where the wiper motor axle goes thru the rear window. Never had to work on it yet but others here have and might chime in if you wait a bit. Good luck!

Maybe you can do that all by yourself...

To be fair to LosDios, how can one read "everytime I drive... it's an autox" and not think (erronneoulsly maybe, but how?) that the author is referring to some potentialy dangerous driving ? Autox is safe cause you're SOLO. Autocrossing on a public road is something completely different. Or am I missing something? Take care.

Glad we could help! Just click on a member's user name or avatar and you'll be able to send that person a private message. But no need to send anything. If you stay around long enough, you'll learn and you'll soon be able to give help to others. By the way, I'm really envious of the deal you made. 1100$ !!!!

This is a classic. Look around the air box and specialy under the big air duct going from the filter to the intake manifold: you'll probably find a vac hose that has not been reconnected. Good luck!

Your are talking about the three holding studs coming up thru the top portion of the strut tower. These studs are what hold the strut support to the strut tower. I'm not sure I remember things all that well but I replaced mine last summer and I think those studs are an integral part of the strut support. Although you might give Andyjo's advice a try and you'll see if it works. If I'm right, you have to replace the strut support to make the repair.