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Are you sure? Seems like a pretty big sensor to me! On my car it's 17 or 19 mm IIRC. Certainly no more than 22mm.

Good thing to know given the cost of that socket size. My converter shows 1 1/4" to be .25 mm too tight (31,75 mm). Does actual practice show that it works?

Can we expect the Forester to register on this board and sometimes complain about you?:-p

I use one set of Mastercraft (Canadian Tire) teflon winter blades and they last a full year. I have helper springs on the arm so they keep contact at speed. Each december I buy a new pair and keep them for the whole year. No place on them for ice to stick. Dont ask why do you keep winter blades during the summer?, rather ask how long does winter last in Quebec ?

Excuse my dropping in... If I were you, I would'nt put any more money on such an old and worn engine. AT 675$ for a 90K engine, I would jump on that deal, if.. 1) I had confidence that this is true mileage, and 2) if the rest of the car had at least five more years in it (no serious rust, etc.) Just my opinion. Just opening up the old engine and fixing it would probably at least cost the same thing and you would still have a close to 200K engine.

I think Josh first brought that up. The conclusion was that, if so*, it was only for the very first model year Legacies. For example, I cleaned both my IAC and throttle body causing no idle problem whatsoever (96 2.2L). * My opinion on that is that a throttle plate needing goo to close properly would be a very poor design.

You are right. 3/4" makes a perfect substitute for 19mm. I have a bunch of old SAE sockets that I never use anymore except for 3/4 which I use (with a breaker bar) to remove and replace the wheel nuts.

I'm not sure I understand you problem. 1) Auto or manual transmission? 2) Since you troqued the crankshaft pulley bolt upon installation you must have found a way to stop the crank from turning. What prevents you from using the same technique to take it off? With man trans some simply put the trans in fifth and put the hand brake or have someone step on the brakes. You can also insert a bar of some sort thru an opening on top of the bell housing (usually closed by a rubber cap) thus blocking the flywheel. You can also use a chain wrench (while protecting the crankshaft pulley with a piece of an old drive belt) to hold the pulley still. that's the method I used when I replaced the timing belt on my car.

I can only talk about my experience here and my experience is with Mobil 1 10-30 during the summer and 5-30 during the winter (roughly between december and the end of march). I have an oil pressure gauge and I see no real difference in pressure at operating temperature and even after long highway drives between the two. I cannot speak for regular oil, but synthetic 5-30 seems to cause no problems whatsoever (viscosity wise) for long and relatively fast highway drives. But there is a real difference when it's real cold at startup between 10-30 and 5-30. Last year I was late replacing the summer oil with winter oil and, one morning, I had to start the car at minus 32° C. It started no problem but the unhappy noises the engine made while it got to operating temp almost broke my heart.

At times, the temp sensor can affect the fuel/aire mixture to a point where the engine is flooded and will not start. Happened to me with my former Loyale.

If it's like on my 96 2.2 L, it's under the passenger's side rear intake manifold plenum. It's got two wiires connected to it and it screws horizontaly towards the front of the engine. You have to push aside or disconnect a few wires and vac lines to get access to it. Takes a ratchet and extension to take it off and replace.

I did it with my 96 Brighton. But I had to enlarge (file and dremel) a couple of holes thru which you can access the rear bolts. It was so difficult to place the bolts that I think I cross threaded two of them but succeeded in reaching the proper torque anyway. If I had to do it again, I would lift the engine.

A long shot, but just in case. Watch out with Canadian Tire ball joints. I bought two a few years back to put on the Loyale I had back then. Despite how much I tried I could'nt get the head of the joint in the knuckle. Just before comiting suicide, I thought of measuring the joint's head diameter with a precision caliper : it was bigger that the original, not by much but just enough to make it impossible to slide in. Since I had no other car, I had to file the joint back to the right dimension. So, it's maybe a good idea to take a measurement of the old joint's head and compare with the new one before bringing it back home. Good luck!

If it's only a lubrication problem this trick will get the hatch open till you put lubricant in the right spot. 1) Be sure the hatch is locked. 2) Push the handle towards the front of the car. 3) Unlock 4) Pull on the handle. If this works, you only have to lubricate the handle mechanism from outside. Use a antirust lubricant. Good luck!

Both cars are awesome but I would'nt want to have to change plugs on any of them!

It's raining up here right now and... it's snowing in California !

That's clearly a step in the wrong direction. Probably less costly at the building stage but at the expense of the owners.

Maybe a Dremmel with small cutting wheel could reach it? Or a nut breaker. Simple and cheap tool: it's like a small threaded cold chisel inside a steed tube with an opening or loop to put around the nut. Then you tighten until the nut breaks.

Just found that: "As of 05' Subaru (04 for the STi) for some strange reason, has decided to move the fuel filter from the nice easy to change location by the strut tower to inside the gas tank under the back seat just below the fuel pump. I show that in my post but just in case people with 05's go and look they won't find it where it was " For you sake, I hope it's not true, but sadly it seems it is.

In case the following could help. A few months ago, I checked the vacuum just to see how the engine was doing generaly. The readings I got were perfect but when I got the vac gauge hose plastic tip out of the right rear intake plenum opening (there is a little plug there), it was dripping with oil. I dont have smoke coming from the tail pipe and my engine (near 150,000 miles) does'nt burn too much oil (around a littre for 5,000 kilometers, part of it being due to some slow leaks). Also,my PCV valve is OK and I have no reason to think that anything is connected wrong.

Presuming the new pack is not defective, the control button? Wires going from the button to the pack? Only ideas that come to my mind. Good luck!

The longest strecth of the belt should have a total deflection of 3/8 of an inch. Too loose and the belt will slip; too tight and the accessories bearings will have a hard time.

Sorry if I can't help any further. Never done it myself and the underside of my car is out of reach at the moment (car is out in the cold and snow). Maybe you could ask a shop to give you an estimate. Should'nt cost too much in part and time for someone familiar with that kind of work. In any case this will bump up your thread and maybe someone who has done it will chime in. Good luck!

Johnusnsd, I've just read eslwere that the brake line above the thank is stainless. Are you absolutely sure that the break is located there?

That's exactly what I would be looking at if I were in the first poster situation. Same thing if I had a fuel line leak. That's what shops usually do. It's almost always possible to reroute.