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That's way too timorous scrap487 ! Why did you stop halfway to the mark? Keep on cutting off parts until there's none left and buy a bicycle. What was your point?

Was away for a few days. Thanks who1981 !

$1.84 ! Next time buy a dozen. I'll buy back one from you for $4.00. More than 100% profit ! Not bad.

FWIW. The first time I replaced a timing belt was on my former Loyale. The timing was left retarded (and was later corrected at the distributor). The symptoms were very close to yours. The engine idled perfectly (even smoother than before) but the car had no power. Maybe your belt is one tooth off and the ECU "thinks" it's the knock sensor's fault. Good luck!

Just a hunch. Next time it happens and it's not too bright outside, open the hood and have a look at the catalytic converter. It might be red and sizzling. My .02$

Yes. They are a couple of L shaped copper contacts. Make a search here and you'll find lots of info + pics. Seems the hardest part is removing the lower nut holding the starter to the bell housing. Good luck!

Done!

Is'nt that the same beeper that warns the keys are still in the ignition?

First thing I would do is replace the front O2 sensor if it has been there for 100k miles. The often stop working correctly without putting out a code. Others will give you more advice. The coolant temp sensor could also be a likely culprit. Get a Haynes manual to know how to test the different sensors. Good luck!

Well, I'm glad I had the good sense of buying a Brighton. If my car ever finds itself underwater, I'll just spin those magical cranks and save the world the loss of my precious genes. Survival of the Bright...est.

HI, who1981! Is this a glue on job or do you have to cut some threads? Happy new year!

If you read that thread closely, you'll see that there are conflicting views on that subject and that a majority of people have cleaned their throttle body without ill effects.

Now I know how my students feel when I talk to them about Plato I think I wont come to close to those wires. I would'nt want any slowing down of my "rise time". Like the British say, OB99W, just jesting. Happy new year!

I think you're right. If you compare the 9003s and the 9004s, they show the same lumens output. The brightness icon though shows much more brightness for the EXtravision than for the standard halogen. ?????????? Go figure. I have the Extravision on my car right now. Have had them for 6 months and thought they threw more light on the road, specialy with the high beams. Maybe the placebo effect...

I use a scanner to clear the codes on my car (OBDII). Really dont know if disconnecting the battery will do same on an OBDII car. I would guess yes but am not sure. Josh should know about that.

Fine, thank you. Everything is developping according to the best scenario up to now. And a happy new year to you!

As for the cause of the CEL, my guess would be it got in the air pocket (the coolant sensor sits quite high on the engine block) and sent info to the ECU that was not in line with the other parameters. I would be surprised if it was fried. My .02 $

The additive, I think, works only for external coolant leaks not for exhaust gas leaks into the cooling system.

By Sylvania's own admission, Siverstars have the shortest life span of their bulb line. Extravisions have the same brightness and are longer lasting. Have a look here: http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/Products/ProductComparison/default.htm

I dont remember having seen that part when I replaced the belt on my car (2.2L). But my memory is not what it used to be...

Look at your front CV joints boots. From what you describe - smoke coming from behind the engine and clicking noises - it very much looks like one of the CV joints boot is torn and is flinging grease on the cat and exhaust system. That's why it's not smoking just idling. It's probably axle replacement time. Good luck!

Check with your dealer cause there is a recall on this. My spring was paid by Subaru cause the break was du to corrosion and the corrosion was du to improper painting of the spring.

Yes, the strut support is the part that bolts to the top of the strut tower. You can see three bolts and nuts protruding there on each side of the engine bay. These bolts could be loose, the top center nut (under the rubber cap) could be loose, or the bearing could be bad. If the problem is there of course. Merry Christmass!

If it's the joints in the steering shaft you should have steering play. It might take only a tunr of the ratchet to tighten the joint and cure the problem. If not it could be a broken spring or one of the strut supports gone bad. I had a noise like that one year ago when the top spiral of my front left spring broke due to corrosion. No other symptoms but the popping noise. Good luck!

It could be something else but that's the exact same symptoms I had both with the Loyale and the Legacy when the coolant temp sensor failed. The ECU thinks the engine is cold when it's hot and it sends too much gas and floods the engine. Make a search with "coolant temp sensor" here and you'll find lots of info on how to find and replace it. Meanwhile, you could floor the gas pedal when it refuses to start. On a injection intake this gives more air, not more gas and might help start the car even if the ECU is sending too much gas. Good luck!