frag

Usually the first suspect is what one has just tampered with. I would give a second look to your intake mod. Maybe put things as they were before and see what happens. Do you have a CEL? Just my .02$

Coud the answer be : «go to bed, you're too drunk to drive!» ? Just guessing.

ON my 96 Legacy, you first pull on the connector straight out, then remove the big rubber bellows (note that there is a «this side up» indication), then there is a spring wire that you unlock (look closely it's intuitive) and then you pull the bulb out. Take care not to touch the fresh bulb's glass with bare fingers. Take care also to insure that the rubber bellows is correctly reinstalled cause it's responsible for sealing the inside of the head light enclosure against humidity. Hope that helps.

I beg to disagree about Mobil 1 5-30. Having an oil pressure gauge, I can certify that the high temp viscosity of 5-30 is exactly the same as that of 10-30 while providing better lubrication upon startup in below freezing wheater. I think the recomendation about not driving long distances at higway speed with 5-30 must apply to regular oil and even then to former formulas of dino oil. One of the more important qualities of synth oil is its ability to resist breaking down at high temp. Not only are the high temp pressures of 5-30 the same as 10-30 but they stay that way between oil changes.

Look under and behind the glove box. You might be able to reach it without removing the glove box.

The fan is switched on and off by the ECU and the ECU receives it's info from the coolant temp sensor. This is how it is in my 96 Legacy. I suppose it's the same for the 95 model, but I'm not sure. Possibilities: 1) bad sensor 2) stuck fan relay

It is cylinder 2.5 in a 1 and 2 liters engine.

In order to brag a little and show that we are not "all chickens", when i was in my twenties ( a long, long, long time ago) I dismantled and repaired my Austin 1800 (front wheel drive)trans cause it was stuck in third. Took me one week and the repair was successful.

You might have put your finger right on the problem. The sender that's right under the alternator is the oil pressure sender. I just hope i'm getting a good understanding of what you're writing. Good luck!

The only thing I can see apart from your new sender or gauge being bad, is that you replaced the temp coolant sensor (connected to the ECU) instead of the temp sender. Is that possible? The coolant sensor has two wires connected to it and the sender only one I think. Just an idea.

Like Nipper said, check the steering shaft universal jointS (there are two inline, one behind the other). Check first to see if you have steering play. Can you move the steering from side to side (even a little bit) without the front wheels moving? If so, check the universal joints. Follow the steering shaft as it leaves the fire wall on the engine's side and you'll find them. On my car it was the lower one (hidden by the upper one) that was loose. Just a turn of the ratchet cured the wandering problem. It might not be your problem but better check the simple and cheap to repair things first. Good luck!

The Legacy takes them lying flat... on the rear wheel wells.

Sorry guys, but there's no distributor on a 97 Legacy. So maybe the plug wires.

On my gallon container of Prestone Dexcool, it's written that a mix of 50/50 will keep the mixture from freezing down to -37C° and from boiling up to 129 C°. 70/30 will give you -64 C° and 135 C°. That last proportion seems to be the minimum dilution recommended. 4 quarts is 64 % of 6.2 quarts. I would think that's more than enough. Use demineralized water only. Even for the last flush cause you can't get all the flush water out of the system.

No, these hoses are connected to the heater core just outside the fire wall (in the top middle part of it), in the engine compartement

Were the driving lights on or off when the warning light stayed on? If off, could be only the parking brake lever switch that's sticking.

It might be one of he hoses that go to and come from the heater core.

Cyl. no 3 is the rear one on the passenger side. 3 4 1 2 front of engine

Never seen or heard of more than four wires but I'm ready to learn.

On sure test: with the parking brake off, if the warning light is on AND the driving lights are not, it's the parking brake lever switch that's faulty. The parking brake switch monitors the day time driving lights.

Thanks. I bookmarked the page. I'll try it tomorrow and let you know.

1) I started downloading it cause I have a faster connection at work and I was going to be away from my computer and cause it's my business. 2) In my case, it's a .rar file and I've never seen that before. Netscape says it does'nt know how to open it. Any help?

I'm dowloading it, thanks. Two questions. For what model years is it? With what software do you open a ".rar" entension document?

I replaced two : on in my Loyale and one in my Legacy and the effect was immediate. Like TCpeer wrote, not absolutely sure it's the culprit. But in my opinion there is a good chance it is. Both my sensors failed after about 8 years. So it's still a good thing to replace it on your car even if it turns out to be only preventive maintenance.

Went exactly the same route a couple of years ago and alt is still fine.