frag

Same thing happened to me and while I was asking question here and looking for a new fan motor, it stopped. Like 777, I think it's probably a debris of some kind that's stuck in the fan. It's behind the glove box or in that vicinity. Take it out and see what's in there. Probably no need to replace the motor. Good luck!

Mtsmith, I see you've taken out that jug of Purple Jesus again. Well, at least the fuel filter is done... even if it's a black one. Here's one to your health:drunk:

Maybe worth mentionning that I remember someone here giving what I think is good advice about pedal pumping when bleeding the system and specialy when replacing all of the fluid : do not pump the pedal down to the floor on an old car cause the pistion in the master will get past its usual course and might damage its seal on a ring of oxydized materail or other crap. I intend to put a piece of 2X4 under the pedal when I'll bleed and replace the fluid in a few days.

They are undistinguishable from the stock ones seen from outside. They have a check valve inside that opens and let the fluid out when you press the brake pedal with the bleeder slightly open and that closes and prevents air entering the system when you release the pedal. It's suposed to be easier and faster to bleed the brake system with these bleeder screws when you're alone to do the job. I'll know for sure when I try them in a few days. That's why the threads must keep a seal when the bleeder is open, i.e. when the but end of the bleeder screw is no longer in contact with the seat.

I think the proper torque is aroud 120 ft-lbs and due to an error in one edition of the FSM, a lot of people undertorque the crank pulley bolt. Before retorquing to proper values, you should inspect the crank shaft, key and key way to see if it has not been damaged. If damaged, other people here who had the same experience will give you more advice. ****For the time being dont drive the car with the pulley wobbling.

Never heard of the Pittsburg Pirates?

To tcspeer, jib and scottbaru, the problem with speed bleeders is not holding a seal when the bleeder is closed, it's holding a seal when it's open. There is a one way valve inside those bleeders (probably a ball with spring) that prevents air or old fluid reentering the system when you release the pedal. If the threads do not seal, air will enter the system when i release the pedal. I just found a special yellow sealing tape a little heavier than regular white teflon tape and able to witstand 500°F. Would'nt that be OK to keep a seal on the threads when the bleeder is open 1/2 a turn?

Yea, on the Speed Bleeders the threads have to make a seal cause you have to back off the idle screw 1/2 a turn for them to be able to operate. Why not use teflon tape for that purpose? Adnan, what harm could teflon tape do? TIA.

To make things a little more confusing: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-114174.html

Thanks for the info guys. And I had a closer look and you're right the seats are solid, no rubber there. Just a special coating maybe that made it look like rubber. And I guess some teflon tape around the threads would be in order?

I'm about to replace front discs, calipers (reconditionned) and pads on my car. I will also install special «ONE MAN» bleeder screws. I cannot find any reference to a torque value for bleeder screws. Do you just screw them in «hand tight»? There seems to be a rubber seal inside where the pointed end of the screw is going to seat. I'm afraid I might damage this seal if I torque them too much. TIA for all replys.

Optimist: time to buy a lottery ticket! Pessimist: dont go outside when there is a thunder storm!

I dont really know the comparative quality of cheaper aftermarket fuel filters but I had a look at what Canadian Tire was selling and thought it looked so cheap compared to the OEM fuel filter. So I always replace mine with a Subaru filter. When in doubt, go with OEM. I do that with the thermostat, PCV valve, coolant temp sensor, crank and cam sensor (dont even know if there are after market replacement for those), ball joints. But I buy aftermarket O2 sensors (General) and air filter (Canadian Tire). For the later, I compared OEM to what C.T. was selling and I could'nt see any difference. It's garantied on the box to be equal or superior to OEM.

I was making myself the same objection when I wrote my post. But I never was sure that is what is really happening (valve rotation). How do we know this? Not that I'm holding up the opinion that the cause of the break was a contact between valve and piston since q240z did'nt see any sign of a contact on the piston top and 99obw explanation is quite satisfactory.

Glad to have been part of the team effort Cougar. Please keep us posted on what followed Tim.

IAC = Idle Air Control valve. It's bolted on the passenger side of the throttle body. Easily recognizable by the relatively big air bypass hose that connects to it coming from the main air duct (about an inch in diameter, a little bigger than the PCV valve vac hose).

The sensor you're looking for is just under the IAC valve, just under the passenger side rear intake runner and screws horizontaly toward the front of the engine. It usually has a plastic connector of a dark red color. It should not be necessary to remove the intake manifold to get to it but you have to remove the PCV valve vac hose and the IAC air hose and push aside some wire harnesses to get to it with a ratchet extension. It is my experience (on a 2.2L though) that it's very hard to test on the engine (because of placement) and that you have to remove it to test. You could at least check that it is properly connected. I suspect that this is the problem: this sensor is not connected. Just a hunch.

I'm beginning to be a little mixed up with that question of one or two coolant sensors. It is certain that with the appearance of distributorless ignition the coolant switch that was connected to the rad and whose function was to trigger the rad fans dissapeared and was replaced by a dual function coolant temp sensor (fuel trim AND rad fan control). But it is possible that even on a 97 engine, there is still the coolant temp sender dedicated to the temp gauge. I thought I had not seen any other sensor when I replaced the ECU coolant temp sensor on my 96 2.2L but maybe I did'nt look hard enough. If Chef Tim's sensor has only one lead, it is certainly a coolant temp SENDER and is not the sensor that is giving him problems.

If I may chime in, what I just quoted seems to point to your engine having two sensors one for the gauge (the single flat connector) and one for the ECU (this second sensors controls the fans and the fuel trim). So you're not looking for another wire but for another sensor (with two wires and probably a brick red connector) just above the one you've already found or very close to it. Hope that helps.

You're right Olnick. Probably time to go to bed. It's rather P0115, 116 and 117. And I did'nt even know there was a fuel temp sensor on my engine. Aloha!

Probably. But why there and at no other place on the valve outer perimeter? I was just offering a possible answer to that question.

Yes, it would take bad rings to send so much heat down the oil pan... or maybe a brush fire under the pan

P0181, P0182 and P0183 are error codes specific to a coolant temp or coolant temp circuit failure.

Just a tought : that's exactly where the piston would contact the edge of the valve in an interference episode.

I've nerver seen baked oil on a dipstick but I would also see that as a very very bad sign concerning the way the engine has been treated. I usually remove the oil filler cap and look inside the cap for thick black goo. That's also a sing the oil was'nt changed very often.