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I think that's what's called «immanent justice» but at the expense of the owner of the car... Did'nt happen yet but glad to know what I can expect next.

The one I use only states thet it contains «petroleum distillates and aluminum» Its marketed by Permatex in a small gray plastic container and claims to protect any metal from corrosion and seizing at temps up to 1600 °F. I would trust that cuts the mustard.

This is something that has most probably not changed since 1996. It should be found near the driver's side strut tower. It is a shiny canister a tad smaller than an oil filter. There is a spring clip holding it in place. Undo this clip and the rest is intuitive. You might need a plair of battery pliers to get the fuel hoses to move before removing them. Most of the time the fuel system pressure goes away in a couple of hours ( I have a fuel pressure gauge) BUT I just went to my car and after two solid days parked at the same place the gauge is still registering 25+ psi. This is the absolute first time I've seen this happen. So it's most unlikely but possible. So have a rag ready and protect your eyes. Pressure or not there is only a small amount that will spill. Take care and stay away from the Purple Jesus while your're at it .

Have a look at this thread. It might contain the solution to your problem. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30970&highlight=rear+lights+working

Before removing the valve to clean it, you could test the electric control module that sits on top of it. There are three contacts inside the valve connector: you should get 9 ohms between the center one and each of the other two.

If it is like with my car, it's not a roller but some kind of a pad, spring loaded I think or at least pressure adjustable, that serves to hold the glass as it is raised or lowered. The problem is that pad (some kink of felt if I remember well) catches dirt or worst sand particules and that is what is streaking your glass. I tried cleaning, got rid of the streaks for a while but it came back. I now live with it. Good luck! EDit: In my case it's more than a streak, it is a series of long scratches.

You have to loosen the hill holder cable till the problem is resolved. A little at a time and testing at each step. Good luck.

Have a look here : http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_11.htm

Are you sure you've got the interference 2.2L? Mine is non interference (1996) but I know the 2.2L eventually became interference but I dont know when exactly. Josh (Legacy777) should know about that.

The more recent ones are hard to pick. They usually cut the steering wheel. Mine is the "fork" type. One steel finger on each side of the steering wheel arms. So they have to cut at least at two different places and since those "fingers" are real close to the steering wheel arms, its not very easy. Like you said, reason enough maybe to skip your car and steal the nice red Honda next to it .

Right next to the throttle body. Find a one inch diameter hose that comes from the main air duct, it connects to it. I would be more precise but I know your model year does'nt have an IAC valve identical to mine.

Dont want to make an obsession of it, but it could be the Idle air control valve acting up. After 15 years, maybe it needs a cleaning. Just an idea.

I might try it myself. His Scan gauge seems very interesting for the price.

It's also my experience that alternators become normally very hot fast. It does'nt seem to cause any problem.

Quite simple story. The hatch latch mechanism works that way : there is a lever that the handle catches when you pull on it to open the hatch. Locking the hatch has the effect of pushing this lever aside and out of the handle's way (you then pull on the handle and nothing happens, nothing catches). Unlocking puts this lever back in front of the handle so it catches when you pull on the handle. When the handle mechanism becomes rusted the resistance becomes too much for the spring that brings back the handle towards the car. So when you unlock you put back the lever not in front of the handle but BEHIND it. You then pull on the handle and nothing happens till you do what I prescribed a couple of post before. A more permanent solution is of course to lubricate the mechanism with a anti-rust oil till the spring can once more automaticaly bring the handle back towards the hatch afer usage. Mine has been rusted since the moment i bought the car used but annual application of the proper lubricant has solved the problem for now.

Before removing the inside panel, try this just in case. 1) Lock the gate. 2) Push on the gate handle towards the front of the car. 3) Still holding the handle pushed forward, unlock the gate with your key. 4) Pull on the handle. If this works, report back and I'll tell you the rest of the story. If not, you've already got good advice on how to trouble shoot.

Static in the radio in tune with acceleration is a sign the alt is producing AC voltage that is not rectified. This often does'nt show if you just test the DC output voltage like the shop probably did. Take a multimeter, set it to AC voltage and connect the leads between ground and the alt output wire with the engine running. If there is more than 0.5 AC volt, the alternator diodes are bad.

There is only one sensor on your car. It sends its info to the ECU which in turn uses it to trim fuel, start the rad fans and control the temp gauge. That's why I think a non working temp gauge could be a sign there is a problem with that sensor or with its connexions which would cause also a fuel trim problem. It seems like a possibility to explore.

You have here some of Italdesign body works, including the 91 SVX. http://www.automobilemag.com/photo_gallery/0309_italdesign/index9.html There is definitly a family resemblance between the SVX and some of these cars, the Lotus Esprit for example.

7 had been my lucky number up to now... Yes I do, but on my bicycle, both from inside (Olmstead road) and outside (Camilien Houde). The later is part of the "Coupe du monde" bicycle race course and it sure can give you a good workout. Have a nice day Dr.

I put my money on Northguy...

The broken plug is in cyl no 2 and the faulty cyl is no 3. Maybe there is no relation between the two.

Just an opinion on "A". Its the exhaust gases that are entering the coolant system not the reverse cause exhaust pressure is much higher than coolant system pressure. So no coolant in the cylinders. These leaks are often very small and the coolant pressure at engine shut off is probably not high enough to force it's way past the gasket and to the cylinders. If you let things go and the leak becomes bigger, you might begin to see some white vapout at the tailpipe. From the top of my head...

Like I wrote in another thread where you mention your temp gauge being pegged at C, the coolant temp sensor which control via the ECU both the fuel trim and temp gauge is a likely culprit. If it has never been replaced, I would replace it since it's not very costly. If you ever had problem starting when the car's engine is hot, then the coolant sensor is almost certainly at fault.

I think I know where that "Alfa-Romeo" thing comes from. It's not the engine of course but the body design of the 1971 Subaru SVX that was the work of Giurgiaro of Italdesign, which is also known for having designed at least 9 different Alfa-Romeo body works.