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My opinion is new (if broken) or stronger stabilizer bars would reduce body roll without compromising ride comfort.

The starter relay is under the dash left of the steering column I think... At least that's where I remember mine is (but it's a manual) The starter solenoïd is part of the starter. It's a magnetic switch that closes the contacts that sends voltage and big amps to the starter motor. A test you could make if the clicking seems to originate from the starter solenoïd: give a blow to the starter (dont break it ) when this happens and if the starter spins then it's most probably the solenoïd. Without knowin the details, I know the trans defeat system on an auto is a little more involved than on a manual. Someon having worked on an auto could probably give you better advice here.

Manual or auto? If manual - the only type I know a little about - clicking insures that it's not the clutch pedal defeat switch. When that switch is bad nothing happens when you try to start. Next, it would be important to locate the source of the click. Two possibilities in my opinion. 1) starter solenoïd. Then the click is louder when listening in the engine compartment with the hood raised. 2) Starter relay.Then the click is more faint and comes from under the dash. Are there any other symptoms? By the way, the five stars rating is not my responsibility. How did it get there BEFORE any answer was given ?

It's most probably the same as mine and mine is 60 liters or around 15.8 gallons.

If there is no play (looseness) in the steering system, I woud'nt worry about it. It's probably the steering wheel that is not perfectly round.

If you already have a laptop or a Palm, I think this gives the more bang for the money. http://www.obdscan.net/

Thanks for your inputs. I think I'll try the second quality Napa at 34$ Can and report back. Thanks for your lenghty response Commuter. Yes I'm doing the work myself and will be replacing the pads as well. I'm postponing the rear drums and shoes since they are a bit more involved (i did them once) and will probably need new backing plates.

I have to replace my front rotors. Quotes for after market discs range, for 1 quality, from 110 to 90$ Can. For second quality, from 26 to 34 (Napa). The guy at Napa tells me second quality is good and is what repair shops use without any problem. He tells me they are made with recycled steel and that it's the only difference. I suspect they are made in China. Should I buy the cheap ones or stay with first quality at three times the price? I would appreciate any opinions on this. Thanks in advance.

Either Subaru beleives their own Paul Hogan adds and thinks everything is offroad in Australia or maybe they think Australians are stupid. At least that's what I've heard...

Count me as maybe the only other guy that has bypassed the clutch starter defeat switch. I did that when the switch went bad and I decided not to have that problem ever again. Next time the starter will not turn, I'll know it's not the starter defeat switch. Still, I kept the habit of pushing on the clutch pedal when I start the car. I'll probably keep that habit since it unloads the trans from the engine and makes starting easier during the winter. And since I'm the only person who drives the car...

Then it IS a mystery why the 90-94 sensor costs 13 times more thant the 95 on. I hope someone will be able to shed some light into this. Last note Midwst : if your sensor is really the some one as the 95 on sensors, remenber you can have a new one at 1stSubaruparts for 17$ USD. Good luck

On my car's 2.2L(1996) the cam and crank sensors are around 25$ each and 17$ at 1stSubaruparts. From 1990 to 1994, the crank sensor is 327$ list and 235$ at 1stSubaruparts. So they MUST be very different beasts. Does your car have electronic ignition or do you have a disty? Someone here recently had the opinion that the big difference in price was due to the fact that pre 95 2.2 Ls had the crank sensor as part of the distributor. On my car the crank and cam sensors are easily accessible from the front of the engine and you need only to disconnect and rmove one bolt to remove. They both are made of a small metallic cylinder (containing the pick up coil) 3/4 inch across and 1 inch long. There is a plastic connector at a right angle to this cylinder. The holding bolt bracket is also at right ange but 90° from the connector. One is slightly bigger than the other (i have the old ones in front of me) but i dont remember which is which. They are not identical. If you want to get a used one, it must come from a 90-94 2.2L engine. Good luck!

Thanks subylvr! After 10 years and 230,000 kilometers, my bearings are still ok, but i know it's only a matter of time before they begin giving up the ghost. After reading your thread, I feel much more confident I will be able to tackle this job. I even have a 12 tons shop press waiting that i bought cheap last summer at an auction. I also have both an electrical and air impact wrench. So things might be even easier for me. Thanks again!

Sorry! Just had a fresh look and there seems indeed to be no adjustment. I had to replace one a few years back and I thought i remembered having to tighten a screw on the cable like you do with a bicycle brake cable. Maybe that was on the old Loyale or maybe on my bicycle... Again sorry if i misled anyone. What exactly did you do? Just curious.

Sorry, just realized i misread your post. Must be too early to read "late"...

IN you case, it's easy : there were no 2.5L in 1990. The 2.5L first appeared in 1996.

Let me try to be less entertaining and more informative. About the inside door panel removal: there are hidden plastic clips (along the edges) that you pry off like Cougar said : with a putty knive or a large flat blade screw driver. There is also a bigger clip near the front of the panel that you can remove with a flat blade screw driver. Its head is accessible. You pry off the top clips (along the window's edge) last by pulling up on the inside door panel. You also have to first remove two screws : one is in the door handle recess and the other one is right under the arm rest. Both are covered with plastic caps. Hope that helps.

There is an adjustement. It's on the latch side and I'm almost sure you need to remove the grille to have access to it.

I would second the «warmer climate loosens some connection» theory. As for the «smart car» theory, there's a simple way to test it. Next time you're drunk, try opening the doors with the remote. If no door opens, then the theory stands..

Same thing here. Touch the two meter test probes together : I predict you'll then get a reading of around .3 ohms. That's the internal resistance of the wires and system. Add that to .72 ohms and...

Plus the fact that 1stSubaru parts does'nt list one for the 1991 Legacy points in the same direction: no EGR valve on your car.

My 1996 2.2L does'nt have one.

Miles, where is that resistor/relay ? Could you describe it with more details ? Thanks in advance.

Had same problem once. A new key solved it.

I cannot answer your question, but if you have to drill out the pinch bolt, you'll probably ruin the female threads. You will then need a longer bolt of the same diameter with a lock nut at the end. Same thing happened to me twice, once on a Loyale and once with my present Legacy. The bolt and nut replacement works very well. Drilling through the bolt is not very pleasant though. Good luck!