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The only way I can see this to be possible is that the crankshaft is not moving when you turn the crank pulley while in neutral. Maybe something's broken there. The only thing that can move the belt is the crankshaft sprocket.

You got the ole 2.2L engine and it's not interference. No damage done.

Thanks for checking Thomcat.

Thanks for all replies. I will keep the fuel level at 2/3 max for the time being. As soon as possible, i will go to the cottage and prepare for a multi days mechanical endevour spiced with bicycle trips to the nearby town (15 km) like I did two summers ago when I replaced clutch, timing belt and a left side burnt exhaust valve. Shade tree mechanic work at it's best. I'll report back.

Bump! Anybody with experience removing and replacing rear cross member or slipping out the gas tank without completely removing the cross member on a 96 Legacy AWD or similar ?

I made a search and found this thread. Would you know or would someone else know if that would work on a 96 Legacy wagon? Seems it would be the solution to my fuel filler rubber hose problem (see «Am I in deep trouble». Thanks in adavance.

I can access the fill pipe and even replaced it. It's the tank end of the rubber hose connecting the pipe to the tank I cannot access. I checked the cover behind the rear passenger seat and, like Welder said, it only gives access to a cover on top of the fuel tank (leads to the fuel pump and fuel gage sender). but not to the hose. If no one says otherwise, the only alternative to removing or at least lowering the rear cross member seems to be cutting a hole just to the rear of the fuel pump cover between the cover and the spare wheel well. On the other hand, the rear cross member is pretty much rusted so maybe I could replace it with a good used one and strike two blows with one stone. Anyone ever removed and replaced a rear cross member ? How much of a job is it?

I myself have a Mastercraft clicker and used it to tighten my head bolts about two years ago (no problem since). How did you know the first torque wrenches you bought were bad? Did you test them against a known good working wrench?

Maybe cutting a new trap over the fill rubber hose would do the trick and be less of a hassle than removing the rear cross member? 96 Legacy, so it's pretty rusted under there. Of course if it's the tank that's leaking i wont be able to bypass removing the crossmember. But I doubt it's the tank itsel leaking cause the leak began just after I yanked at the hose. Opinions?

Bad news as I feared. Thanks Welder.

I just replaced the rusted and leaking fuel filler tube. Repair apparently successfull but... i had to yank a little hard to get the tube out of the rubber hose connecting to the tank. Result : either the hose cracked or is partially dislodged from the tank = anything over 3/4 or a tank produces a leak at the tank end of the hose. Do I have to remove or lower the rear cross member (major work apparently) or do I have access to this hose from the trap at the rear of the back passenger seat? I'm crossing my finger and hope for the best. Thanks in advance for all inputs.

I also vote for Iridium NGK plugs. Great in my EJ22 engine. And with all the hassle associated with changing plugs on the EJ 25, why put in plugs you'll have to replace much sooner than the iridium?

If you have an air compressor you could try a pneumatic hammer (size of an air drill and relatively cheap) I've succeeded removing very stuch things with that. It gives very rapid and sharp blows that can free almost anything.

A simple toggle switch on the wire going to the starter's solenoïd. Under the hood. I dont think thieves are going to look for that. My .02$ What I did was a little more (excessively perhaps) complicated. I cut that wire and soldered the ends (with proper extensions) to side by side small bolts going thru a blank switch plastic insert on the dash. Hardly visible. I just have to bridge the two bolts heads with a key or a penny for the starter to be activated when I turn the ignition switch.

You could even ask the shop to machine the outer crown (where the pressure plate bolts on) a few mills more than the rest to give the disk even more grab. That's what was done on mine the last time I replaced the clutch and it works super. The machinist offered that to me. I did'nt know it could be done. If you choose to do that, ask the guy if he has done that before and knows what he is doing. Not a good idea to be a guinea pig. Good luck!

I've read they're good on snow and dry pavement (silent) but crappy on ice.

There should be no air coming out of the vent this tube was connected to. I know it takes some contorsionist skills, but you could look under the dash on the driver's side. There is maybe something identical there and it would give you an idea about what the orphan tubing is connected to.

Or, 1) Remove the car from the radiator cap and set car aside 2) Screw a new car to the cap. 3) Drive.

A part of the ventilation-heating system for sure. Probably sending air to the windshield heating-defogging system or to one of the lateral forced air vents. Put the fan on high, play with the selector buttons and see where there is no air comming out.

Or did the test on a cold engine and did not open the throttle fully.

Or you might make a foray north and buy an Eliminator battery at Canadian Tire. That's what I have and it's a very good battery. Ten years warranty, and around a hundred bucks.

Good thinking porc. The O.P. could indeed be V. C.

3 4 1 2 ô That's the configuration. The ô is your eye looking at it from the front of the car. Happy new year!

Too bad there is'nt a "virgin sensor" on Subarus. It would sound more erotic... :-p

Let's try this explanation. 1) The heater outflow hose connects to the stat housing. 2) When the heater is on it keeps the stat cooler which in turn stays closed longer. 3) The engine coolant thus heats up more and since the coolant sensor is placed at the top of the engine... Take it or leave it!