frag

Never heard of the cam gears coming loose. I retorqued them dry. But I dont think a light application off Locktite (blue?) would harm anything. They are not subject to rust or oxydation either so I dont see the necessity of using anti-seize grease. Just my opinion.

http://vivioman.stormloader.com/history.html

If you put the shaft back in and the snap ring «snaps», then I dont think there is a problem. But just out of curiosity how did replacing your struts lead to the shaft being pulled out of the differential ?

And with the 2.2 L

Yes, it's just behind the oil pump.

Well maybe my english does'nt serve me well here, but here goes. I mean if you push down on the handle the driver's shaft will contact the part of the block just next to the seal and this will serve as a fulcrum point. At the same time the bent flat tip of the driver's shaft will begin to put pressure on the inside of the metal part of the seal at the top. Of course, you can go around the crank of cam shaft doing this and get the seal out progressively. Although I dont remember having had to use more than the top position to get the seal out. Once the seal begins to move the rest is easy. The important part is, at the same time, to push the driver's shaft away from the crank or cam shaft. Also, Cookies advice on polishing any part of the driver that could marr or scratch the shafts seems like a very good idea to me. Going at it very slowly and carefully is, I think, the golden rule here.. I hope this is clearer. Take care.

I think he means «out of the transmission» (front differential), not out of the stub shaft. I never removed the stub shaft out of the trans, but I think there is supposed to be a circlip there to hold the shaft in.

What else were you replacing? I dont see how replacing a strut can have the effects you describe. Did you remove the ball joint?

Lumpenbaru? More seriously, I think they should bring back the all manual Brighton. I would buy one all over again.

What I did: I used a medium size flat blade screwdriver. If you have a cheap one, bend the last inch a few degrees to one side. Push the blade inside the seal (thru the soft rubber lip) with the bend going away from the shaft. Like BigMattyD said, try not to scratch the shafts: that's where the bend in the driver helps. Then I pushed down on the handle till the part of the blade near the handle rested on the block and the tip of the blade came in contact with the inside of the top metal part of the seal. I pushed a little more and the seal began to come out. I was at a loss on how to remove the seals till a mech at the dealer showed me how. What I just described.

Did you get to that thread when you did your search? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7925&highlight=linkage+bushing

How about 74... http://users.pandora.be/worldstandards/driving%20on%20the%20left.htm#leftdriving I know, I know, european countries...

Mine once told me that the auto parts store (Canadian Tire) was my "second home". Well, maybe cars take up too big a part of our lives. I wonder how it was with horses before...

There is no rad switch on your car, just one coolant temp sensor that sends info to the ECM which in turn uses it to monitor the fuel trim, activate the temp gauge and turn on the main fan. If the gauge moves to hot when the fans do not come on, I would interpret this as a sign the coolant sensor is working. You could replace it anyway since it's cheap and will at least get that possibility out of the way. The fans are activated by a series of relays situated in the black box just off the driver's side wheel well in the engine compartment (next to the battery). The exact function of each relay is inscribed on the box cover. There is one relay activating the fans when the AC comes on - this one seems to be operational - and one activating the main fan when the engine gets hot. Maybe this relay is at fault. Since you say both fans come on when you turn on the AC, I would presume the fans fuses are ok. Hope that helps a little.

Knowing the model and year of your car would help. When the fans do not come on, does the temp gauge rise?

First thing to do is to get the stored code read. I think Autozone does it for free in your country.

Sorry, I should have read the post more carefully.

Not hard. 1) Pull on the plug 2) Remove rubber shroud 3) Unfasten the metal clip holding the bulb 4) Remove bulb 5) Put in new bulb making sure you dont touch the glass with your bare fingers. 6) Reverse procedure.

If the only problem you have is a leaking valve cover gasket, then keep the car! This is a frequent leak area on a Subaru and replacing this gasket is easy and unexpensive. When you say «they replaced it» when they finally cured the leaking cover, did you mean the gasket or the gasket AND the valve cover?

Thanks for the correction about ported vacuum (vac ports upstream of the throttle valve). Considering this, would it not be possible to conclude that ported vac is the safest way of sucking in upper cyl cleaning fluid? It does'nt start working until you open the throttle and you keep a constant control on how much vac you want and how much liquid you want to get inside the manifold at all time. Less chance also of hydro locking the cylinders.

In case this might help you with the P1507 code. «The engine in my 2000 Ford F-150 Supercab started dying frequently, the dreaded "check engine" light came on and I did not want to take another $$$ trip to the dealers service department. So I do a little research on OBD and bought an Actron CP9135 OBDII AutoScanner at an excellent price. Plug it in, retrieve the "P1507" code, which translates to "Idle Air Control System Underspeed Error (Ford)". I check the IAC sensor and discover it's not plugged in right. I fix this connection and the problem disappears! If you have a modern (post 1996) vehicle and you do a little of you own auto work (turn a wrench now and then) you need this OBD box. Actron makes an excellent product at a very good price. (If you have an check engine light on - you need a OBD box!)» See this also: http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

I think you both did something very different. It would be interesting, if possible. to discuss and compare that difference. 99obw used a vacuum port upstream from the throttle valve (no vac at idle and more and more as the engine is reved). Shimonmor used a vacuum port downstream from the throttle valve (max vac at idle and less and less as the engine is reved). Are those two choices equal or is one preferable to the other?

Competition.

I don't know, but stay tuned to this board cause we need your troubleshooting ability. Would you be so kind as to explain by what steps you came to that conclusion?

Did you use a standard automotive type sprayer (connected to air pressure) or electrical?