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For Canadians and U.S. citizens that sometimes come up her to freeze their butts (or drink good beer...), have a peek at what Canadian Tire has to offer. They make pretty good tools (Mastercraft) most of which are garanteed for life like those at Sears. The good news is there are 50% off sales on them several times during the year. I've made a habit of always waiting for those sales to buy any tools I need. When it's not urgent of course.

Where does this click come from? Really from the starter (under the hood) or somewhere under the dash. If you can confirm it's coming from the starter itself, then your «new» starter has a solenoid problem ; if under the dash then it's the starter relay. There is one in my 96 Brighton, 2.2L. I suppose there is also one on yours but not absolutely certain. Manual or auto? If manual, start from the clutch, There's a starter defeat switch at the top of the clutch pedal stem, start from there the wire will lead you to the relay. I know nothing about how it works on an auto trans. Good luck!

Most everyone here use a standard shop vise. You only have to be sure both ends of the tensionner are at an exact 90° to each jaw and that you compress VERY slowly.

I remember doing this a long time ago on my Honda 175. It really helped with such an underpowered machine, but I had to be on the tip of my toes at all time. Taking into account that a motorcycle has shorter braking distances than a car.

Good explanation that would account for why your steering became «hard» cause the power steering pump is driven from this crank pulley with harmonic balancer. One thing though, it could not cause overheating cause the water pump is cam belt driven.

Maybe the Impreza power to weigh ratio is better.

The sensors are small electrical apparatus that send info to the engine's computer (ECU) about various parameters. With that info the ECU controls the engine's ignition system and fuel system. The coolant sensor tells the ECU what is the engine temp. If faulty, the ECU «thinks» the engine is hot when cold, sends an insufficient amount of gas and the engine does'nt start. Or it tells the ECU the engine is cold when in fact it is hot. The ECU sends too much gas and flood the engine which again does'nt start. The cam and crank sensors tell the ECU when the pistons are on the admission or compression stroke, etc. There are also other sensors. They perform similar functions. Most of the time when one of more of these sensors detect a fault or are themselves at fault, you get a «check engine» lignt and retrieval of the fault codes give you some clues about what's wrong. Stay tuned and other will probably give you more help.

Hi, welcome to the board from a fellow montrealer. I think lots of sensors could be at fault here: temp sensor, crank and cam sensor, etc. No fault codes? Where have you been? It's been -25 at least here the last few days! You're ruining my reputation as a north country tough guy! :-\

First thing that comes to mind is having someone in the car rev the engine to the same rpm it revs at when driving at 70mph (3000-3500) while you're under.

On the fornt of my car - and yours also probably - the upper strut retainer bolt (to the knuckle) is a cam and turning it ajusts the camber. There is an adjustement at the rear also but it's not part of the strut. It's on a lateral retaining rod.

Right! Thanks for the correction.

On my 96 2.2L, if I remember well, the filler tube goes to the left (driver side) cam cover. Part of it (shorter part) is integral with the cover and the rest of the tube fits through a flange with a gasket and two bolts.

Yes. It's a small round canister about the size of a third of a D flaslight battery.

They make a different size one for tie rod ends but I think there is only one size for removing ball joints. The fork,s opening on mine is 1 inch wide and 3 inches deep if that can be of any help to you. It was used to remove ball joints on a Loyale and on my Legacy.

That's going to a lot of trouble to make her cuddle up to you. 30 years ago I went down south on a motorcycle (Yamaha 500 single cylinder) to Cape Hatteras with my girl friend with exactly the same thing in mind.

I'm not sure either but I think the ECU does'nt send spark nor fuel when it gets no signal from the crank position sensor. You're right about the block heater. I've got one already installed on my car but the problem is I've got no place to plug it in. The car sleeps on the street and sometimes at a distance from where i live. Had no problem starting it down to -35 C° but I dont like the sound the engine makes during the first few minutes when it's realy realy cold. I usually use Mobil 1 5-30 from december to the end of april.

Would'nt disconnecting the crank sensor have the same effect?

The oil pressure sender is right below and behind the aternator. You probably disconnected it when you removed or reinstalled the alt.

If your 90 2.2L is anything like my 96 2.2L, this hose is connected to the left (looking into the engine compartement from the front) of the throttle body just under the hose that goes to the PCV valve. It is also a little bigger in diameter than the PCV valve hose. At the other end it is connected to the big air duct coming from the air filter housing. Hope that helps you.

A six year old battery is at the end of it's uselful life + all your symptoms relates to a weakened battery. The cold temperature lessens the number of cranking amps available. That's why you can start during the summer or when the engine compartment has had the chance to warm up but not when it's cold. It's minus 25C° here this morning and my Legacy start no problem with a three year old batt. Buy a new battery but take time to check your charging system (alternator) first cause a bad alt will drain your new battery and damage it. With an alternator in good condition your should have around 14 volts at the battery posts when charging. Easier yet have the place were you're going to buy the battery check your alt. They will do i for free. Good luck!

In cas Commuter does'nt chime in, I remember he uses magnets on the oil filter.

Maybe we've got the scenario for a new asian horror movie here : the Fumoto fear!!!!!! Setright, I will look at it more closely next time my head is under the car... but in my opinion - and i remember it was a reason why I was at ease with the valve - the valve does'nt protrude under he pan bottom level. I dont know how it is with your car, but on mine the oil plug opening is on the side of the pan.

Do a search here to complete but this might be a good beginning: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27715&highlight=bulbs

Dont forget to put Locktite on the small screws before tightening them. If not they'll back out again sooner or later.

It's a matter of choice of course. I was only stating what my experience has been. Add to that the fact that I have been on this board and on alt.autos.subarus for more than five years, know that many have the fumoto valve or something similar and I've never read a single post from someone having had the kind of trouble some here are fearing. But I've read numerous posts of drivers having had trouble with the standard plug. And I think people doing serious off road should have a skid plate anyway. If you go places where the valve could be damaged, you're goint to places where your oil pan could be punctured.