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I'm sure readers will be able to spot who's got a personnality problem here. End of my contribution to this thread. The clean one:lol:

30psi with the vac hose on and 38 psi with the hose off means your FPR is pefect. Getting the vac hose off replicates the vac condition you have when you open the throttle (no vac or less vac), a situation where higher fuel pressure is required When you pinch the line downstream from the VDO gauge, you in fact take the FPR out of the equation and you're then testing your pump. your pump also seems to be in very good condition. Seems your problem is not fuel pressure related. Good luck with the rest of your testing. P.-S.: a side benefit of having the VDO gauge is you can also monitor the condition of the rest of your fuel system. If the pressure does'nt hold steady for at lest 15 minutes after shutting down the engine, it means your FPR or your injectors or your fuel lines are leaking. If in doubt which one I think Haynes outlines the test procedure to find out

Again, what's up with people on this oil change subject?!! Is there something here that's stirring some deep down recesses of the subconscious? Is it with fluids ? Someone says he finds the job messy and others give him a few pointers on how to make it less messy. Who am I to tell someone what is messy and what is not! Or if one should like or dislike having oil on his hands! I think people should stick with things informative and not try to inflict their subjective appreciations on others.

Informing people on a board like this on how one performs a particular job can give someone a useful idea if one chooses to use it, no obligation. That's time well spent. Telling people how they should use their time or what they should put or not put on their hands when they tackle a messy job, THAT is a waste of time IMHO.

About black box recording of speed 5 secs before impact. Was used here recently in a case where a young driver (twenties) killerd two people in a 50 kilometers zone. He said he was driving at 60-70 but the box showed his speed was 180 kmh just before the impact with the other car. His lawer pleaded that was invasion of privacy. The court ruled that driving a car on a public road is not a private thing. The guy was sentenced to a few years. As long as it's used that way, I'm all for it.

Cougar wrote: Same here. Thanks.

Some of us here have the habit of punching a hole in the filter's bottom and letting the oil drain before removing it. A lot less messy. To go faster, i punch a hole (I use a conical center punch but a screw driver works also) in the center and near the edge to also get the oil trapped outside the paper element. I think I was the first one here to do that - or at least to talk about it - and I remember someone replying that he loved to feel hot oil dripping down his muscular and hairy forearms (or something to that effect...) If you're that type, than forget what you just read

If it's not rythmic, it could be something as simple as a heatshield rattling.

Here's more... http://endwrench.com/archive/syseng.html

If that salesman had not been wearing a hat and a long coat maybe you would have seen two small stuby horns on the front of his head and a long red pointed tail between his legs. Anyway, you probably know what is the best way of getting rid of that kind of temptation. [/url] You could do it with money or with religion. In my case, I admit I lack both righ now

1) You mean camshaft sprocket. In my case I use a chain vise grip to hold the crank pulley and the camshafts sprockets with a piece of old drive belt to protect the crank pulley and a piece of the old cam belt to protect the sprockets. It's cheap, permits you to work with both hands (you set the grips - just tight enoug - and let the handle rest on something solid: the alt for the crank pulley and an idler pulley when you remove the cam sprockets. 2) Just a little oil on the O ring will be fine. 3) I used a flat screwdriver (on the advice of a mechanic at the dealer). You insert it between the soft lip and the shaft axle going slightly away from the shaft (not to mar it) and then push downward on the handle catching the outer edge of the seal from the inside. Be careful and everything will be fine. 4) Go there for info on marks alignment. It's for a 2.2L, but I presume it's the same for your engine. In doubt buy a cheap Haynes manual. http://motor.com/ Click on «Motor Magazine» Then on «Articles and features» «Back issues» July and then august 2001 In both cases go to «Foreign Service». There is also info on the Endrench Site, but I cannot find the adress right now. Good luck!

If necessary, find a place where they use this machine. I found a place that uses it in Montreal and will be dealing with them when I buy new tires.

Opus, it looks a lot more difficult than it really is. Doing what I listed takes about ten minutes max if the resevoir bolts dont give you too much trouble. After that you'll see that the plugs are easily reached with the proper extension. In case my instructions were not clear enough, it's only the top part (cover) of the air filter box (the one you open to change the filter) that you have to unsnap and push aside. Unplugging a hose or two might make this easier but this will be intuitive and easy to do. Good luck!

I went thru the same experience with my 96 Brighton. In my case, the culprit was a mixture of out of round tires AND rims. The problem with out of round tires or/and rims is it does'nt show on a regular balancing machine. You have to use a special machine or rely on someone experienced who can spot that condition visualy. This can happen more often than we think. During the two monts it took me to understand what was really happening and cure it, i found more than four tires and one rim that were out of round right out of the box. It might be something else in your case, but dont rule out out of round tires or rims.

I presume you have a legacy. Then you have to remove the engine to replace the spark plugs. That's why only wrench heads and he-men not to say nut heads buy Subarus. More seriously, most of us here have done this one or more times. On the passenger side, unsnap the air filter box and put it aside (check that no vac hoses or other hoses have come apart at the joints when you replace. On the driver side, unfasten the washer fluid reservoir (two bolts: use penetrating oil and be careful cause they break easily) and put it out of the way. Some people remove the battery but I did'nt find that necessary. Use a ratchet with the proper extension and you're set.

Thanks Kmix99. Was there a metal cap between the strut support (piece with the three upward facing bolts and bearing) and spring, a piece that would resemble the spring seat but upside down? And was there a rubber bumper on the damper shaft? Sorry to ask all these questions, but I usually am far from a parts source and without a spare car when I do these repairs. Dont want to find out too late that i'm missing some essential parts.

Thanks for the brake line tip, Cookie. One last question. Haynes shows a metal «cap» on top of the spring, between spring and strut support and also a rubber «bumber». The part guy at the dealer says there is no such thing and that the spring rest directly on the strut support? What's the scrore here? Thanks in advance.

Thanks prof!

Sorry, I think I get it now. The cam is on the bolt itself, you set camber by rotating the bolt and cam inside those weird elongated holes. When the camber is set, you tighten the NUT whitout moving the bolt itself. Like my chemistry teacher used to say, it takes a while for Gilles to understand, but when he understands, he really understands! Hope I'm not undeserving of the same comment now...

Cookie, do I understand that this cam is relatively independent of the bolt, meaning I can set the cam and not move it when I tighten the bolt?

I was looking at the wrong ones cause i presumed the longer struts were for the front. In fact the front struts are shorter than the rear ones. Looking at the good ones, I got an answer to my own question and found a new enigma. All the mounting holes of the rear ones (the long ones) are perfectly round. The top mounting holes of the front ones (the shorter ones) are like this. On one side the hole is slightly elongated in the vertical axis, on the other side (same bolt) the hole is much more elongated but in the horizontal axis. ?????? There is also a reference mark on each side smack in line with the middle of both elongated holes. The bottom holes are round just like for the rear struts. I'll probably understand more when I remove the old ones. Thanks for all inputs.

About those low mileage japanese engines, a different opinion.

Thanks Cookie, but could you give me more details. What exactly is there to do to keep the same camber ajustement. Does it have to do with the tightening of the bolt : the more you tighten, the more camber or the less camber? Or has it to do with positioning the bolt in the Knuckle elongated (is it elongated?) hole ?

I'll be replacing my front struts soon and I'preparing. I've got amost all of the parts but dont understand how the top holding bolt going thru the knuckle is responsible for camber ajustment. The two holes on the new strut are perfectly round. Does this mean that the top hole in the knuckle is elongated? The manual says there is a reference mark. Where? On the bolt's head ? on the Knuckle ? I dont see how tightening a bolt thru an elongated (ovalized) hole would make for a reliable and permanent camber ajustment. Something is escaping me. I want to reinstall the new one exactly like the old so I dont have to pay for an alignment until I replace the rear ones also. Could someone explain to me the mechanics of the camber ajustment.

If you make some searches here with «fuel gauge», «fuel sending unit», etc. I think you'll find much info on how to replace, and even how to clean and restrore the sending units.