frag

avk, thanks for the tip about puting the punch handle in a 8mm socket and extension. Would have been useful ... but why did'nt I think of that... I was using a short (5-6 inches) punch from a set. I dont know exactly what size it was but it worked perfectly. I used the same punch + a cold chisel to remove the crimp on the axle nut and after that to crimp the new nut.

That's strange : there is only one cam sensor and it's on the driver's side cam. The fault code I know that would mention something like bank 1 (upstream) and 2 (downstream from the cat) is the one for the O2 sensors. Just a tought.

Here's some answers: 1) I did'nt use my impact wrench (i have one and a small portable compressor) nor did I remove the axle nut with the car's weight on the wheels cause I read somewhere (Endwrench maybe but not sure) that either procedure can damage the wheel bearings. True??? 2) I think the main difference between old gen and newer gen Subarus is that on the older ones the axle was pressed in the hub but on the Legacy for instance the axle slides freely inside the splined hub (when there is no rust of course) The left axle's nut was unscrewed very easily and the axle slid out of the hub at the first push. Not so on the other side like I described. I had to jump on the breaker bar to remove the right axle nut and it took the use of my impact wrench on the axle puller center bolt + some wacks from a big hammer to have it move. 3) I'm not sure what a DOJ is, but if that answers your question, whith the spring pin out (no problem doing this apart from the fact that the righ axle's pin must be reached from above with not much place to use a hammer) the axle slid out of the diff stub shaft without any difficulty. There does'nt seem to be any water or salt getting in there. 4) I have four OEM struts waiting to be installed but I'm waiting for the old ones to really show signs of failure befor i do it. All I have right now is some noises that seem to be coming from the struts mounts when I turn the steering from lock to lock. 5) What took me the longest was removing the left ball joint. I chose that route cause the joint needed to be replaced anyway. As usual it took all I had to do this job: impact wrench, pneumatic hammer, oxyacetylene torch and BFH. Best of luck when you do your bearings and struts 99obw. ShawnW, I know about Ed for having been on the old generation board when I was driving the Loyale, I think a poster of him on the garage wall would have given me much needed inspiration. Thanks for replying!

I finally found the time to replace my front axles. Here are some details that might be helpful to other shade tree mechanics. 1) Once the car on stands, to remove the axle nut (32 mm) I used a long crow bar (one end thru the studs and the other one to the ground) to keep the wheel from turning. I put short pieces of 1/2 inch copper tubing to protect the studs. 2) The right axle shaft was stuck in the hub, so I had to use axle puller (pusher...) and hammer (hope the bearings did not suffer to much) to remove it. When I saw that the new axle would not go in more than half an inch, I used a fine triangular file to clean out the «valleys» of the hub splines. After that the shaft went thru easily. 3) I replaced both inner bearing/shaft seals. Had to unblot the sway bar's bushings and end links to get easier access to the seals for install. Not much space around there. 4) I think I remember a couple of board members having noticed lateral movement of the axles at the trans side and wondering if it was normal. It's not. I found no lateral movement there on my car. Of course I put anti-seize grease on everything I unfastened and refastened thinking of next time. That's it. Hope that helps. P.-S.: I have the utmost respect for those who can do this in a couple of hours. Was not the case for me. Maybe next time.

You're looking for a strap that's tucked between the seat bottom and the seat back. It's at or near the center of the seat bottom. The strap is supposed to stick out but often does not. Just put your fingers in there and pull on anything feeling like a strap. You might pull part of the seat belts first but keep at it and you'll find it. Been there... Good luck!

1) It's one of the most simple part to replace. ONe connector and one bolt. 2) Price: if your car is 95-03, you're in luck crank and cam sensors are $17.96 USD each at 1stSubaruParts. If earlier, you're out of luck, it's $183.00 for the crank sensor. In Canada they ask the same high price even for the 95 and after models. Go figure... https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/

I have a fuel pressure gauge and the fuel system pressure always gets down to zero in about 3 to 4 hours max. So if you do your repair in the morning there is no residual pressure in the system. So there is a lazy way to do this...

It's maybe too cold there most of the time for salt to be effective If I was the worrying type I would maybe ask myself how often the car was started at a temperature below 30°C. But of course no one will give you that info. Good luck!

Maybe you could try injecting some silicone first ?

Right!

Same thing with my Legacy during the summer. It's not the engine's heat, it's the sun's rays hitting the dash top. If it's dark in color and the sun is shining (Florida...) it will take some time for the outside air to cool the air ducts. No problem with that right now in Montreal... P.-S.: simple way to check this: when your car has stood in the sun for some time, check the air temp the minute you turn on the fan just after starting the engine. If it's already hot, than it's a sure thing it's not the engine's heat.

Just a complement to 99obw answer. Lock the hatch, push on the handle all the way towards the hatch, unlock only then, pull on the handle. If it works, do what 99obw told you to do.

Thanks Skip, this will be useful for everybody. Question: what's the lifting capacity of the hoist you used? Is half a ton safe enough?

The first thing I would try because it's cheap, simple and would probably work is to replace the alternator drive pulley with a marginaly smaller one. I dont think it would take a big difference in diameter to produce the effect you're seeking. I would go to an alt rebuilder place and try to find one that would fit on the alt drive shaft. Anything else would have you mess with things that are complicated or could «backfire». Just my opinion. Good luck!

I would first check for anything mechanical interferring with the throttle action. Next time it does it, check under the hood if possible to see if the throttle is fully closed. If not it might be something as simple as a rubber carpet catching on the gas pedal or throttle linkage needing lubrication, or... I use a heavy rubber (water catching) carpet during the winter and my feet make it move forward bit by bit. Same thing happened to me once and it was the carpet.

Just saw your alias "WRX". Maybe some of what i wrote does not apply. Others will set things straight if need be.

Hi, 1)All chances are your crankshaft pulley bolt head size is the same as on most Legacies (and as on mine): 22 mm 2) You dont need a puller, the crank pulley will practically fall in your hands when the bolt is removed. 3) People use different methods to immobilize the pulley while they remove the pulley bolt. I think mine is cheap and very efficient. I bought a chain wise grip for around 20$ Can and used it to remove the crank pulley as well as the cam pulleys. The beauty of this tool aside is low cost is that the relatively short handle is easily made to catch on nearby immovable parts and thus permits you to work alone with both hands free. The only caveat is you have to use something to protect the pulleys and you should use just enough clamping force to hold the pulleys steady. I used my good old judgment and everything went fine. I used part of an old drive belt to protect the crankd pulley and part of the old timing belt to protect the cam pulleys. 4) I think you're about right for the rest of the sockets sizes. 5) Most people here, and me included, think that replacing the water pump is cheap insuraqnce. You should also replace the crank and cam seals and reseal the oil pump (an O ring + sealing compound around where the pump mates with the engine block) Hope that helps and good luck!

I get 30 mpg highway with my 96 2.2L This is for long distances (100 miles would qualify) during the summer (15-30_° C) and at a near constant speed of 70 mph.

Rotor ? And no place to insert a bolt in my rear drums to remove them either. Did some 96 Brighton have rear discs and an additionnal drum for the e-brakes ?

Moosens, I have a 96 Brighton also. Yes the rear drums are free to pull when the wheel is removed. When all is normal, a pull of the finger is enough, a light tapping outwards with a hammer at most. The e-brake is cable activated. I did the rear shoes once. About a year and a half ago. Did'nt like it much. Too much fiddling with naughty springs and small rusted levers. Guess I'll replace all the hadware in there next time I open things up.

Just to let you know that at least it's not a design flaw. It's nice and warm in my 96 Brighton even on -30C_° mornings. I even have to turn the fan and the heat down 10-15 minutes after starting. I just hope nothing will happen resembling what is happening to you. I'll keep reading this thread just in case... Good luck!

246.17$ at https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html Ouch!

You might find some answers here: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7927hhhhhhh

Others will probably give you more useful help, but in the meawhile i really dont see how a failed rod bearing could prevent an engine from starting. Nothing to do with fuel or spark or air. I would make quite a racket but it would start. You should get a second opinion. Moreover, i dont remember ever reading about a failed rod bearing for the three years I've been on this board.

https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ I did business with them from Canada twice and recommend them. Others will recommend other adresses also.