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Mattocs, same with my 96 2.2L But the engine does'nt sound busy at that rpm. Smooth...

Would be useful to know what engine and kind of trans you have. If it's anything like my 96 Brighton, then 1) 570 CCA seems quite enough. I have something like that in my car and I can start it at -32C and probably colder (rest of the winter will tell...) 2) From the battery, the electrical current path is (a) ignition switch ( clutch pedal starter defeat switch or AT starter defeat switch © starter relay (d) starter solenoid. If ( is faulty - I'm more familiar with the manual trans setup than the AT - you hear nothing at all when you turn the ignition to start. If © is faulty, you might also hear nothing (relay not working) or hear a click under the dash (relay moves but contact is not made). If (d) is faulty, you hear a click inside the car (relay under the dash driver's side) and inside the engine compartment (solenoid moves but contact is not properly made) I've been told by a starter rebuilder that the starter motor brushes almost never fail and fail only on very old cars. That's the limit of my personal experience. Good luck!

98 Outback 90$ USD each from 1stSubaruparts like 99obw wrote. So 470$ Can for the set of OEM struts. Thats half the can. dealer cost even taking shipping and duties into account. Cost me 100$ shipping for four struts, one clutch set, one alt, 4 front pads. Duty is around (I will check when back home) 30$ and is for paper work and does'nt seem to vary much with the price of the shipment. I had ordered two small sensors from them previously and the duty cost was about the same. Chip, they ship with UPS (you can track the shipment from start to finish on their Internet site) and deliver to your home. Two of the struts out of stock but when they finaly got them (about two weeks) shipping took no more than 5 days to Montreal. You pay shipping, duties and taxes to the UPS guy. He has a wireless card reader Very satisfied up to now. The sensors (cam and crank) I ordered from them previously were 22$ Can each. They would have cost me around 300$ for both if bought in Canada. But that's an exception I think. The price differential is good but less than that most of the time.

Commuter, if I take your dealer's price as a reference, the four shocks would cost 1100$ Can!!! I got the four of them for 434$ Can at 1stSubaruparts. Add at most 100$ for shipping and duties and you're still far ahead.

Bought four struts from them (not installed yet). Ad about 50$ Can for shipping and 25$ for custom fees and see if it comes out better than the price they want at the dealership. It probably will. One way to lower the shipping cost per item is to order at the same time things you know you will need relatively shortly. I ordered four struts, a clutch assembly, front pads and an alternator all at the same time.

I've been using the orange stuff for three years and no problem.:cool:

LIke 99obw said, if your cooling system (rad, stat, poump, etc.) is in good shape, these fans should'nt come on unless the temp is coming close to overheating. In normal circumstances this will happen only if the car is not moving and the engine has been idling for some time. In my case it usually happens when the engine is idling at a stop light during the summer.

Thanks, I'll have a look at those two places.

I drained the fluid in my ps 2 years ago (turkey baster method) and replaced it with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. Never had any problem related to the ps even during the coldest weather.

I would second 1 Lucky Texan on that one. I remplaced the cam belt on my car and it seems to me that the only thing one has to remove that has a direct relation to the P/S is the drive belt.

Would someone explain what exactly one can do with the Harbor Freight tool and what else would be needed to replace a bearing. Remove and replace the bearing? Remove and replace the hub?

A search on this Board would have given you this result: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9498&highlight=first+1st+gear

Two questions and one opinion. 1) Does the light come on at idle only when the engine has reached its operating temp or does it come on at idle even when the engine is cold? When the engine is at operating temp, at what rpm does the light go out? 2) I would check or have someone check the oil pressure and see if it is within specs. If it's not then your oil pump o ring and/or seal is probalbly in need of replacing. If it is then maybe the oil pressure sender is defective. Just my 2 cents.

Duane, is it possible you're not looking at the right place for the front diff dip sitick? Just in case, if you look over the right (passenger side) fender at the right side of the trans , just behind the engine and the bell housing and if you look carefully and push aside a few hoses maybe you'll find it. If your oil dip stick has a yellow handle, the front diff dipstick also have a yellow one but it has not the same shape, rather like a big eyelet rather than a straight and flat handle like the oil dipstick. What makes me think you're not looking at the right place is that this dipstick could not be replaced by a bolt. Hope that helps.

To make an abstract of what happened : a Subaru radiator problem was caused by a Camry exhaust system driver's error. If this had been a riddle, I dont think I would have found the answer.

Written on the door still of my car: 32 psi front and 30 psi rear. I inflate my tires at 34 psi front and 32 psi rear to be on the safe side. Tires tend to loose pressure not gain it and I prefer having a slightly over inflated tire than the contrary. My 2 cents. P.-S.: My tire are standard for my car, i.e. 185-70-14

I'm interested, but how do you guys know this tool can work on a Subaru front bearing?

If that can help you evaluate the probablility of a radiator problem, I can tell you my rad has no ice on it or around it and my car is always outside and it's been between -20C to -35C here for at least 10 days. Two things I can think of: 1) Do you have a proper mixture of antifreize and water (at least 50/50)? 2) Would it be possible the radiator's top hose is leaking and the water is trickling down to the bottom of the rad? Good luck!

777, with Harrison's OBDScan tool you get the codes but also real time readings of the sensors ouput. What more info does the Select monitor give?

Torxx, 15w non synth oil has a maximum pumpability of -13F, meaning that below that temp it will not circulate thru the engine and will probably be close to solid. You must use a very special technique to prevent your engine to self destruct starting it at -45F with that kind of oil. Would you share that info with us? http://www.engineoilinfo.com/voxpop9.sht Mobil 1 10-30 has a max pumpability of -41 C. So I was farther from disaster than I thought when I started at -32C last Wenesday.

Torxxx, -45F, that's -42C. The way things are going here right now, I might be forced to do just that

RockRaptor5, in case you choose to use the «jack up the engine method», it might be useful for you to know more precisely what this friend mechanic did. We had the car on a lift - but this should be possible on jack stands also - and he used a big crow bar to lift the engine (not more than an inch) after loosening the mounts. I think he put a block of wood or something similar between the engine and the cross member to hold the engine up while he took care of the pan's back bolts. Hope that helps.

Oil pans back bolts are a pain even with Leagacies. At least there were access holes on my car (96 Brighton) but I had to enlarge them with a Dremel and even then I had trouble putting the back bolts back without cross threading them. A friend mechanic helped with the gasket replacement on my former 92 Loyale and I'm almost sure he slacked the motor mounts and jacked up the engine about an inch to be able to reach the back bolts. That's the limit of the help i can give you. Good luck!

Forrester2002s, On my car and probably on yours also, the headlights automaticaly go off when I shut the engine off. I left the headlight SWITCH on. Thus the headlights came on the morning after the minute I turned the ignition to on and then to start. So nothing that miraculous, but the battery (about 1 year and a half old) was able to power the headlights and the starter at the same time. About the pour point, 10-30 is not recommended for temps below -20C, but Mobil one 10-30 has a pour point in the range of -40C. Meaning it's still liquid at that temp and will flow but I guess not very rapidly for the first few minutes. I am in a real ernest to replace it with 5-30 the minute it gets a little warmer. I will have to use an unheated and unisolated garage to replace my front axles and change the oil. Just a small electrical heater to keep things bearable. Cheers!

Most amazing is that the oil I had in the crankcase at the time was Mobil 1 10-30. I usually put Mobil 1 5-30 for the winter but I have'nt found the time to change it yet. I have my front axles to replace and I'm waiting for this to change the oil. What's more amazing is that I had left the head lights switch on the night before, so they were lighted when I started the car. Like I said, at such a low temp the engine turns over rather slowly but starts after the same number of revs as when it's warm outside. I've got NGK platinum (single electrode) plugs and NGK wires. Nothing special beside that. Happy winter starting! P.-S.: One more thing, I dont know if it makes a difference, but when I installed the NGK platinums they were gagped at .038 instead of the .040 to .044 that they are supposed to be. I decided not to tamper with them and installed as they were.