frag

For what it's worth, I never touch the gas pedal when starting and the engine always starts after the fourth or fifth revolution be it hot or dead cold outside. The revs are slower when it's cold but the starter does'nt need more revs to start the car. Wenesday, I had to go to the cottage and had to park the car in an open field cause the snow was too deep near the cottage. When I started the car in the morning the temp was -32 C. That's around -20 F... The car started as usual. 96 Leagacy Brighton with 200,000 kilometers.

I used a ViseGrip chain wrench when I last replaced the timing belt on my 96 Brighton protecting the pulleys with scrap pieces of belt held by duct tape. You can use the ViseGrip on the crank pulley as well as on the cam sprockets. It's cheap and works perfectly. Moreover the short wrench handle can easily be made to catch on unmovable parts and permits you to work with both hands. The wrench holds by itself. I see no advantage in using anything else.

Thanks for the explanation Setrright (a name is a name is a name...). You seem to know a lot about transmissions. Will remember that if I ever have to open mine. Did this actually with my first car a long time ago - an Austin !800 front wheel drive - but I think I was lucky then to make a successful repair. Have a happy new year!

Monk, thanks for the info and sorry to have pulled you from sleep faster than you would have liked... I was'nt expecting such a detailed answer. All I wanted to know is what kind of bearing grease would you add to the one already there with the least chance of catastrophic incompatibility? Would I be pushing my luck with synthetic grease?

Miles, the grease I'm planning to add on and behind the seal is synthetic and is red...

Originally posted by electryc_monk HI Monk, maybe you can help me with something the other board could not help me with. I'm replacing my fornt axles in few days, will replace the inner bearing grease seal at the same time and want to add some grease to keep the seal's lips lubricated. The problem seems to be greases compatibility http://www.ieee-kc.org/library/craft/greasecompat.htm Some greases can just liquefy if mixed together. Just want to know what grease to use to prevent that. I was planning in using synth grease... Thanks in advance.

Just a detail and for the sake of discussion, but I think reverse is straight cut because it's a less costly technique and that one does'nt use it long enough for the whine to be objectionable. It might be stronger as a side benefit but strenght seems to be pointless for reverse. Or maybe I'm not getting myself is deep enough trouble to have use for a strong reverse...

http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9056&highlight=plugs+chang%2A

Burke, on my car the only problem was that the hatch handle's spring would'nt make it go back towards the car after being pulled cause it was rusted and needed lubrication. Use of an anti rust lubrican solved the problem. You might try this simple solution first and if it does'nt work you should try Lesbaru's advice. I'm not sure I understand exactly the procedure you used the last time it stuck but I gater you have an electricaly activated lock on you hatch. My procedure is all manual but should also be applicable on your car. The problem is that if the hatch handle's spring cannot bring back the handle towards the car after having been pulled, the next time you use it it will not «catch» and the door will not open. Represent yourself the working of this handle this way: when you unlock the hatch you put a lever in front of the handle mecanism. It's this lever that the handle is supposed to catch to open the hatch. If the handle has not gone back towards the car first this lever is behind the handle mecanism and the handle will move freely without catching anything. Hope this explanation is not too complicated. Good luck

HI, I volunteered this exact same idea a few weeks ago (dont remember on what thread) and thought if was maybe a crazy idea. How did it turn out? Why would you not do it again? What problems did you encounter?

Bump... and a Happy New Year to everyone!

I made a search «grease compatibility» on Google and found some interesting info. Seems to be a complex question. The fact that incompatible greases can result in both liquifying at operating temp can make someone a little anxious about this. Here's one page that gives a compatcompatibility chart http://www.ieee-kc.org/library/craft/greasecompat.htm Would someone know what exactly is the grease type - tickening base being all important - used by Subary in their cars wheel bearings

I was thinking about motor oil. Thanks for the reply. I'm asking cause the axle replacement I was suppose to do last week has been postponed to next monday and all I have to do right know is to think and worry... I'm not removing the bearings but only replacing the inside bearing oil seal. I want to add a little grease behind the seal to keep the lip lubricated. I was thinking about synth grease cause it is more water proof than others and the inner seal is where water usually finds its way inside and ruin the grease and bearing. The two kinds of grease will only «touch» so maybe there will be no problem. But I'm taking your opinion into consideration. Thanks again.

Does anyone know of problems adding synthetic bearing grease to normal bearing grease ? I know it can be done no problem with oil but is it the same thing with grease?

That's 72.28 lbf-ft. Overtightening can also damage steel wheels and specially when the guy apply full torque to the first nut and then to the others. Wheel nut tigntening is a lost art in about every tire shop I know. I've even seen a guy removing the tire from the rim without depressurizing first.

I think I remember (Former 92 Loyale) that the horms were relay activated. The horn button grounds the relay and make it send voltage to the horn. I think there is one relay for each horn (if my memory is exact) So maybe one of the relay is grounding itself some way on another. Know it does'nt help much but that's my 2 cents. Good luck.

Sorry, I read your post in reverse...

Is it possible the pass side belt is broken ?

Just had a look and found that they can only provide owner's manuals up to 1996. But I would presume that the 95 and 96 models are very much alike. I have a Haynes manual for my Legacy (96) and it only states differences with the 1994 model and previous.

«Note: If you are a Subaru vehicle owner, you can have free access to an electronic version of your vehicle's Owners Manual on the MySubaru web site: http://my.subaru.com. You will need to register on the site with your vehicle's VIN to gain access, but there is no fee involved. This web site provides beneficial information to Subaru owners and we encourage you to take advantage of this free service.» Good reading!

OK, BWM. you win.

While you're waiting for experts to answer... one usually take compression reading when the engine is at operating temp and with a little oil still on the cylinders wall. Maybe it's normal for the compression to be lower if you take the reading on a cold engine (i presume maybe eronneously that you took compression readings before starting the engine) with little or no oil on the cylinder walls?

How about replacing a Loyale rad on the street side while it's snowing Battle_Wagon... From an Montrealer with the world for a garage

All that the Haynes Tech book on fuel injection and ingnition systems says is that AC voltage bleed off when the diodes fail is small but can fool the ECU and create an engine misfire. I'm no expert but I would'nt think this can harm anything permanently. If I was in your situation, I would'nt think twice about driving 15 minutes to the garage. Good luck!

Just curious. Is there any drawbacks to using the Accel Superstock coil and wider gap plugs? Longevity perhaps? I'm asking this cause I'm usually a little sceptical at anything simple and not very constly that improves performance. I'm maybe naive, but why would professionnal engineers not already install into a car something not very costly that would improve performance markedly? Just thinking outloud.