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Seems like the least one can say is that «mileage can vary». I would then like to refine my advice (also based on limited and personal experience on two cars) 1) If no fuel mileage problem is noted, it's quiite evident that the 02 sensor has not failed... 2) I would say that if a relatively sudden drop in fuel mileage is noted, if black soot is present in the tail pipe, if the 02 sensor has not been replaced for quite a while, and if no other cause seems to explain the phenomenon, then I would test the 02 sensor or replace it outright just as a precaution. Universal ones are not very expensive and the soldering involved is quite easy. I have access to the 02 sensor output through my Harrison's OBDscan tool. I'll check mine as soon as possible. Mileage is horrible right now but winter is when I do mainly city driving (real downtown city driving), short distances, very cold start and use winter gas. Anything that can improve mileage in such conditions will be welcome

Samething with my Legacy Brighton. And a Fumoto valve makes it even easier.

Never seen a piston top like this before (very limited experience). What is that squarish insert like part on the top of the pistons?

I second Subarumention and commuter mentions of the 02 sensor, particularly the upstream one, the one that is responsible for the ECU's metering of fuel to the injectors. In a period of time sometimes as short as a year an 02 sensor can become sluggish and cause the ECU to enrich the overall mixture. BUT this condition will not be sufficient to trigger a CEL. I replaced an 02 sensor twice without a CEL already (once on the Loyale and once on the Legacy). I have had improved gas mileage each time. I think I'm due for a new one right now. One telltale sign the 02 sensor is maybe not up to par but not triggering a CEL is a deposit of black soot on the inside of the tail pipe. I think a very thin layer of soot is normal but if you monitor this once in a while, you'll see the difference. My opinion based on limited private experience.

Are you referring to this thread? http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7927

You dont have this problem with the Legacy luxury model (I mean the Brighton). You get manual crank windows doubling as natural a.c. and much more...

What is exactly the composition of this Subaru coolant? Dave1rr, I'm also using Prestone Long life and also replace it after two years. Could'nt do otherwise when I replaced the timing belt a few months ago anyway.

On the container it speciifies that it's specially made for aluminum radiators. It's silicate and phosphate free. Why would it be detrimental for Subaru's aluminum radiators and engines? I've been using it for 3 years and have no cooling system problems. Should I add that to my worries?

Thanks very much to all. Most of your posts are conforting. Will be doing a battery of tests as soon as possible (cold and snow right now and the closest private garage I can use is out of town) and will keep you posted. P.-S. And a special thank to Setright for having put his hand on his idling motor, courageously disregarding public opinion.

Congretulations! 300,000 kilometers is the next mark I'm aiming at with my Legacy. Will salt and bad luck let met reach it ???

Thanks all. As soon as temperature permits, i'll follow all your leads. I'll even make a vacuum test and listen carefully with my stetoscope all over the engine. Weird thing is the idle is stable and silk smooth almost all of the time, making me think it's mechanical more than electrical or fuel related. But I'll check spark and plugs anyway.

Timing belt tensioner going bad? Possible. I recently (june I think) replaced the timing belt, took all the precautions with the tensioner (compressed it even slower than indicated) but I remember I had to nudge the piston back out on the tensionner pulley when removing the pin. Did'nt make anything of it at the time (seemed like a temporary binding), but i's haunting me right now. But would it give the engine this vertical jolt I feel when I put my hand on the top of the engine and that feels like a rubber mallet blow? Thanks for the input.

Under the hood for some minor things, here's what I discoverd. Not sure it was'nt already there and I just did'nt notice... When idling (and when idling only) I hear somethink sounding like a knock (nothing resemblic the tic or clac of valves) with a frequency of about 1/4 the idle rpm (700rpm) (3 times a second approx.) When I put my hand on the top of the engine I feel something like if someone was hitting the top of the engine from inside with a rubber mallet. No other symptoms. And all of this disapears above 1,000 rpm. If I had a bad crank bearing, would'nt the imbalance be felt side to side and not up and down due to the boxer configuration? And would'nt the sound be worst above idle rpm? I feel ridiculous asking this but would someone with a 2.2L put his hand on the top on the engine (any part will do, power steering reservoir, alt, intake, I feel it everywhere) and tell me if he feels the same thing. Thanks in advance.

Do i understand that one can replace the inner seal without special tools but must I have something like a Hub Tamer to remove the hub and repack the bearing?

Alias, the service manager at the dealer where I buy some of my parts and a few people here think that I should'nt replace my front bearings when replacing the axles if they are not shot. The service manager even told me he knows of a few Legacy (one a taxi) with 400,000 kilometers and with the original bearings. I remember you having somewhere on this board the opposite opinion. You seem to think that at 200,000 kilos, a bearing is at the end of its life. Since you've established that you usually know what you're talking about, you have me worried. What are your basis for that opinion? Thanks in advance. P.-S. Is it possible to replace just the bearing inner seal without special tools?

I certainly could use that information also. And Tiny Clark, you're missing out on something. You have'nt lived if you've never been at the wheel of a Sube with wild hubs.

99obw, I went at the Toolswarehouse page and there is also another seemingly comparable tool set called «HubShark» Did you have the opportunity to compare both and if so what is the advantage of the HubTamer compared to the HubsharK? Prices are almost identical. Thanks in advance for the info.

Does it do it only while turning or also going in a staight line ? Just testing the rear axle, one not familiar with this kind of Subary might in fact get the impression that the rear diff is at fault. Possible but I dont think so. Hope the number I gave you will help. Did you try playing with the 4WD button while going formard slowly and then shifting to reverse and back?

It's normal for a Loyale to feel like it's binding when doing tight turns on dry pavement (90 degrees is enough) with the 4WD engaged. I dont think it's a rear diff problem. But you have to find a way to disengage the 4wd. Try this number it's a garage near where your car is, maybe in St-Jerôme itself. 1-800-400-3792 They do work on Subaru exhaust systems and are recommended by the CAA. Maybe they know of someone who could help you or help you themselves. It happened once that I could not disengage the 4Wd but playing with the trans (1st-reverse, 1st reverse) while also playing with the 4wd button took care of it. So I dont know what else to do in your case. Maybe someone else here can help you. Good luck.

Both front outer boots are shot, axles beginning to make noise on tight turns. Question: is it a good idea to replace the weel bearings outer seal (the one on the trans side) when replacing the axles. And is it an easy job or something as difficult as replacing the bearings? A guy I trust at the dealer has convinced me not to replace the bearing if they are not noisy. Should I replace the seal and is it an easy job?

About the clutch pedal switch. 1) Did you try pumping the pedal keeping it not too far from where the switch closes,when the pedal is near the floor ? It sometimes activate a failing switch. 2) The switch is up on the pedal stem. Contrary to the brake pedal rear lights switch it's a switch that closes by pushing on it. This switch - when closed - makes a ground for the starter relay (under the dash to the left if I remember weel) If your remove the connector to the switch (two wires one comming from the starter relay and the other going to ground) and connect the two wires together one way or another it will bypass the switch. On my Loyale and even now on my Legacy, I've permanently bypassed this switch. I still press on the clutch pedal to start just to disengage the trans but it's no longer necessary. No more problem with this switch .

You have'nt said yet if it's auto or manual. If it's manual it could be the clutch pedal starter defeat switch. I had this problem with my 92 Loyale once. If it's a manual try this next time it does'nt start. Put the ignition to start and pump the clutch pedal a few times to jolt the switch. If it starts then, you've found your problem. The switch is at the top of the clutch pedal stem. A little hard to reach but doable.

And maybe a small fire extinguisher. The kind for fuel fires. And did anybody talk about some spare bulbs? I also carry my OBDScan tool and a spare front wiper. Right now I have even a spare alternator when I do long trips. But I dont necessarily recommend that as standard practice.

No short cut I'm afraid. Unplug some vac hoses, push aside some wires, use a swivel extension or the right lenght. Was relatively easy once I found it (hard to spot) and once the surrounding space was «cleaned». Hope someone was smarter than I was. Should'nt be too difficult

thanks for the info guys. One can better understand why it's so easy for that valve to be sticking. No direct mechanical link to it just a magnetic field Do I understand correctly that it not the valve to throttle body position that's important to maintain but the relative positions of the mechanical and electrical parts of the valve?