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I use those springs on my wiper arms (keep them all year...) and they work very well including with winter blades. I have one on the rear wiper arm also (the blade does'nt clean the upper portion of the glass without one. There's a thread on that subject over one the new generation Subes. Seems they are not readily available in the US. If you find some report back and I'll carry the info over to the other board. I bought mine at Canadian Tire.

...and put a maple leaf on the d... antenna!

I've heard of Canadians having trouble in the US when Canada refused to accompany Bush in it's attack on Irak. But I think (1) that this is not the place to discuss this, and (2) that we lack the objective instrument that could measure the relative level of fanatism in both our countries.

I have not seen nor heard of such antiamericanism around here. Maybe you should come to Montreal instead. But to display conspicuously anykind of national or religious emblem on one's car is often sufficient to get the attention of the minority of fanatics you have in any society.

Just back from 1stSubaruparts. The crank sensor for 95-03 Legacies is 17$ but for 90 -94 it's 183$ !!!!! So I guess your engine is in that range. Can the parts be so different???

About the crank sensor price. 17$ might be low but that's exactly what I paid at 1stSubaruparts. Just to check, what's the model year of your engine? That's the only reason I could understand the price differential and even there...

I'm afraid I wont be of any help mechanical or electrical wise. but I could advise you to buy your parts somewhere else... I thought we were being robbed here in Montreal (160$ Can for a crank sensor) but 190$ USD that's criminal. I bought mine from 1stSubaruparts for 17$ USD !!!!!

If it's cable like on mine, the cable might be loose and it might be only the fork that's rattling.

Dont feel bad. It could have been the ejection seat button...

Presuming the latch on your car is the same as on mine (good chances), here's what you can do next time the hatch refuses to open. 1)Lock the hatch. 2) Push the hatch handle towards the car and hold it there. 3) Unlock the hatch, still holding the handle pushed. 4) Pull on the handle. Follow that to the letter and if that works. report back and I'll give you the rest of the infos.

You add it to the regular spring. It goes on top of the wiper arm with a leg going underneath the part closest to the pivot and the other leg on top of the arm. There's a coil spring in the middle a little like a clothes' pin spring. i bought them at Canadian Tire store in Montreal but I've seen them about everywhere. I'm pretty sure places like Walmart, Pepboys, etc. should have them in the US. Hope you find them.

Maybe a remnant of a former (disconnected) anti theft device. I have something resembling what you describe in my car. But ii's still working.

Had the same problem. Put on an additional spring you can get at any auto parts store. Cured it. Cheap and easy to install (without tools) the minute you understand how they're supposed to go on. Side benifit, they make the blade better at removing snow and ice even when you're not going fast.

Chain ViseGrip. Nice inexpensive little tool. Protect the pulley with a piece of old belt, jam the Grip on the pulley and let the handle rest on the alt support. Voilà. You then have both hands free. One pushing on the breaker bar and the othe holding your beer. I also use it to remove the cam sprokets. Same procedure. The handle also catches on something freeing your hands but I dont remember exactly on what. Good luck!

When the engine is at full operating temp, I get 11-12 psi at idle (700 rpm) and 55-60 psi at 3000 rpm (cruising speed). Been like that for 3 years and has not changed after I replaced the oil pump's O ring and resealed. So I guess it's normal. At idle when the engine is cold it gets as hign as 80-85 psi.

I use winter wipers with teflon blades. They neither attract nor repel water, they just wipe it away. :-)

Is'nt it a little late for you to be still up? And watch your language! Cheers!

On my 92 Loyale the wires had to be disconnected to have the Ecu give a code. If I remember well.

1stSubaruparts has struts and spring at a good price. https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ I've already bought four struts from them but might add at least rear springs as a preventive maintenance.

Could we have some more details Schmitty? Chests getting more brittle with age...

Forester, never tried it myself but the manuals (Haynes and Chilton's) tell to unplug the fuel pump, start the engine and let it starve to relieve fuel pressure before replacing the fuel filter for example. So I guess a fuel injected engine can run at leat for a very short time on residual pressure. That does'nt prove anything but only makes it a possibility. Hope the cold does'nt hit you in the west as soon as it's hitting us here in the east. Cheers!

Philip and Moose, you're almost certainly right. I think there's an unrationnal feeling of security in knowing your engine is bathing in the best oil you can afford. For the time being that feeling is stronger for me, and others probably, than cold reason. Would very cold climate qualify as a reasonnable reason to use synth? P.S. the money argument might probably bring me back to reason sooner than later;)

I'm no expert just a shade tree mechanic. So here's my opinion for what it's worth (2 cents to be exact...) I hear an engine that's quitting immediately after having started. Engine turns over for a second. What it would tell me if it were my car is that the engine is getting insufficient fuel volume or pressure. Like the pump get just enough fuel together to have the engine start but it starves just has it's getting to it's idle speed. What's the cause of that? I would guess bad fuel pressure regulator, clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel line, bad pump, clogged pump intake. Hope someone with a better ear than mine listened to your recording. Nice accent by the way. Must be warmer where you are than here! Good luck! I'm not completely familiar with US states acronymes But I guess GA must be Georgia?

For old times sake. Replaced an old Austin clutch once with a used one. This was on the street, car resting on its tires. I crawled under the tranny while my brother removed the last bolts and dropped it on my chest. That's extreme shade tree mechanic Ah, if I could roll back the clock...

Had the same condition on my former Loyale. Fact: when i replaced the PCV, no mor oil on the filter. Theory: old engine + clogged PCV valve or hose = pressure under the valve covers = oil enters the pcv live (connected to the air intake duct). Just a possibility.