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What about the heat shields and specialy those covering the pipes connecting to the cat and the cat itself? Hope it's that cause a new cat costs.

Probably a bad PCV valve.

They have numerous advantages the first of which is better flow for equivalent viscosity at low temperatures. That's verified and that's important during the winter in Montreal. The other one is better resilience to high temp (does'nt break down as easily under high load and high temp). That also seems to be a fact. I'm not sure the way I drive my car makes this so important for me though. I've also heard that synth gives better lubrication. The fact tha people are weary of using it during engine breaking in period is a sign this is widely beleived (is it true?) Finaly I've also heard (true?) that it sticks more to moving parts and thus lessen the initial wear an engine goes thru when first starting in the morning. Amen.

Sorry to come too late but I had a similar problem with my 92 Loyale and I used a small pneumatic hammer (20$ or less) when you already have the compressor) with a hard wood block. These hammer deliver a series of very rapid and sharp blows that in my experience can disloge about anything with minimal damage. BFHs deliver heavy blows that cause damage. Sharp is better than heavy. Some think that hitting the axle with anything damages the bearings though. I'm afraid they are probably right. The Loyale was stolen soon after so I could'nt verify that.

One advice and one info. 1) use a flexible line not a copper one like I did. Someone here use a braided teflon line and I cannot find same here. Would very much like to know where I could order one online... 2) For the volt meter I used a Radiodhack rectangular meter (about 12$ US) that I mounted inside an audio cassette plastic individual case and that I plug in the cigarette lighter receptable. The recess under the stereo holds it in a stable position. It's maybe not as tidy as a dash mounted meter but it's cheap, easy to install, and you can carry it with you to another car.

Alias, (1) I wish you are right cause a tolerance of 1/4 inch in circumference seems to me to be too thin a margin bo be realistic, but, this !/4 inch max tol. in circumference is what I've benn told by every one i spoke to including a Subaru tech. And I've also read this everywhere including here on numerous posts. But we could be all wrong. I would very much like this to be cleared up once and for all (2) I take exception to your statement that it's impossible to measure the tires within 1/4 inch margin of error. If your reread my post attentively you'll see that my simple method is exactly aimed at doing just this and my result show that even 3 year old tires can be within 1/20 inch in circumference of each other (of real world rolling circumference to be more exact). In the light of that experiment one might even think that a 1/4 inch max tolerance in circumference is not that exagerated after all. (3) What you say about tire pressure and load is exact. But it only shows that trire pressure checking and correcting acoording to load is even more important on an AWD than on any other car. Moreover, if all those factors can vary the rolling radius of a tire, it's even then more important to have tires of equal circumference at the start. An important difference in pressure or load could have a more serious effect on the center diff if it's added to an already existing difference in circumference.

Did get in there at least twice. I think there are no more than 2 screws (one under the armrest an the other one in the handle's recess. One last plastic fastener at the front of the door (just pull on it). To remove the inside panel after that you have to use a flat scew driver or anything with a flat blade one to two inches wide and put that between the panel and the door frame at the bottom and at the side prying gently towards you while staying the closest possible to each fastener (look at the panel side ways). It will become intuitive as it progresses. There are about 8 or 10 plastic fasteners holding the pannel in place at the bottom and at each side. You just push in to reinstall. Hope that helps.

I use 75-90 semi synth from day one and my shifts are silky smooth. Just a little more expensive than regular. Motomaster brand from Canadian Tire.

The tolerance is 1/4 inch in CIRCUMFERENCE not diameter. Here's what i did to check. Go to an empty (or almost) parking lot and measure the width of one parking space. Get a rough estimate of your tires circumference (around 76 inches for a 14 inch whee) and compute how many parking spaces you have to drive thru to have your wheel go thru at least 20 revs. Put a mark on front and back tires at point of contact with the ground. Drive thru the appropriate number of parking spaces in a straight line (13 was enoug in my case) If front and back tires are more than 1/4 inch apart in circumference, the marks on the tires will be at least 5 inches apart at the end of the experiment. Much simpler to do than to explain. Alsok, if you can have the help of someone, have this someone count the wheels revs from the outside instead of using the parking spaces method. In my case, I discovered not more than one inch of discrepancy between front and back, the equivalent of 1/20 of an inch in circumference. One extra advantage of this method is that you're getting real life measurements of the rolling circumference of your tires taking into account every variables like pressure for example.

Good! I think i found the experts i was looking for, you guys! I want to use leds in a variety of circuits to inform me if voltage is getting to them or not. Example: on led in the fuel pump circuit. If the engine stops and fuel pressure gauge is at 0, looking at the led will tell me if voltage is getting to the pump or not. EtC. What kind of led do i need and how do I wire them? The most important thing being I dont want them to take up too much current. Just act as sorts of extra idiot lights. Do I just splice one lead of the led in the hot wire and the other one to ground. That simple? Thanks in advance!

SUBYLOVR, I asked you this question in another thread that probably you did'nt read. Why could you not free the valve using this time a cleaner that does'nt leave a residue? How can something get so gummed up that nothing will be able to free it? Just want to understand in case I decide to clean mine.

I have two problems with that procedure AVK. 1) Never could get the GM cleaner from a GM dealership. Bad luck maybe. 2) I was under the impression that the IAC only is open when the throttle is shut (engine indling). Would air be sucked into the valve at 2000 rpm. (throttle partly open)? Has someone here used that procedure?

Will be the first one to congrat you if a new stat cures the problem Moose. But buy a OEM one. I made a comparative test on an aftermarket one and an OEM one once and the AM does'nt come close: opens later, does'nt stay open as long, does'nt have a comparable flow, etc. Just one thing bugging me though. If the stat is responsible, how come you get no overheating even with a long idle?

I think the rear diff's plug recess fits a 1/2 inch ratchet drive perfectly. Does on mine and I think these plugs are the same on all models.

I hope you're right and that a simple resetting will cure the problem. But if this idea sounds stange to me is that i have had numerous occasions to unplug the neg side of the battery to do work in the engine compartment and never did I have any problems after that. Always drove off immediately after starting the car and everything went fine. Why would my car behave differently? Just a question from an ever inquiring mind...

Someone reporterd recently after having cleaned the IAC valve. I remember he said to watch out for flying spings when separating the electronic part from the mechanical part of the valve. He also said that after plugging all holes with duct tape he filled the valve with cleaner and let it soak for a while. He finally said that after that his idle had never been smoother. All I remember. Maybe that very person will chime in. Good luck!

Just a possibility worth investigating if your troubleshooting does'nt take you anywhere. Just left of the battery (looking into the engine compartment) and below it and to the right of the dip stick, is the cam position sensor. Maybe a mixture of water and acid entered the connection when you cleaned and flushed the battery. Try disconnecting it and cleaning the contacts with electrical contact cleaner.

Just an opinion, but... 1) Does'nt sound like a rad, pump or stat problem cause it would overheat when idling. My fan comes on only when the engine idles. 2) the fact that the engine has to work to overheat makes one think of cylinder heated gases getting into the coolant when the cylinder pressure is high enough. Crack or head gasket ? Just a possibility. Is there an overflow tank on this car? Bubbles in the coolant? The cold rad with hot hoses is a mystery to me though.

I've reread this entire thread and something does'nt add up. When tires of different circumferences are the cause of a problem it's the center differential (viscous coupling in a MT and clutch pack in a AT) that fails not the front differential. Also you never said if it was MT or AT. The At front diff is a separate unit from the trans. Is it possible it was driven on too little gear oil?

I really need to be taught the basics here guys. If you wire in a led to know if voltage is present in a particular wire, what do you do: splice one lead in the wire and the other to ground ? That simple?

When the whole surface is machined like you say is it necessary to shim something (the throw out bearing maybe) to take into account the material removed? Or is it too insignificant to bother with?

Am I right in thinking that timing belt covers in good shape with the proper gaskets should prevent seals to become so dirty that they eat into the crankshaft metal?

When I was a teenager, the first day I reported to summer work as groundman for a utility company, two wouldbe co-workers did'nt show up. They both died after hitting a cow with their car. I dont remember the exact detail of the accident. Hitting an animal that size (cow, deer, moose) is VERY dangerous. Also glad everyone implicated in the previous stories went relatively unscated.

Meep, you idea is to my liking. How would you wire those lights? Would it be best to use leds or normal 12 lamps? Would be a nice thing to know rapidly when things stop working what is involved. I have a system (part of my home made anti theft system) that allows me to know immediately if voltage is going to the starer solenoid if the starter suddently refuse to turn over. I will immediateley know if it's the starter's relay or the starer's solenoid. But it's not a lamp nor a lead, just a contact to which i put a test light from inside the car.

Theotherskip, did you have the flywheel machined on its entire surface or only where the clutch disk contacts it?