frag

What about a fine crack in the battery case letting the acid seep out?? Just a possibility.

To my knowledge, the only acceptable meaning that sentence can have is that the compression in one cylinder is a more meaningfull info when you can compare it to compression in the other cylinders. 150, 150, 150, 150 does not say the same thing as 190, 190, 150, 190. But like youself I don't see how taking a compression reading of the other three cylinders - be it simultaneously or not - could alter the readinds on no 4 cylinder.

777, what kind of cleaner did you use?

89100 Subaru Legacy 1990 thru 1998, including Outback and Brighton.

One possibility : the part of the cam shaft that rotates inside the seal is badly rusted or pitted and destroys the seal in a short time (while producing heat by friction). Maybe the guy that replaced your seal did'nt notice. Maybe... It's a rare occurence, I think, that a seal self destroy the way you described.

Certainly is much to high. My idle speed never goes higher than around 1500 even on the coldest morning and then goes down to 700 rpm very rapidly. Are you sure the throttle or throttle cable is not sticking or binding? Though it could be many other things.

Is'nt this the code one gets when not tightening the gas cap enough?

75$ at 1stsubaruparts

No offense 777, you "sounded" tired in your first post and I thought this would make you laugh. Better luck to me next time.

Is'nt that too big a trailer for a car that age? :brolleye:

Yes, but that would mean there's no relation between the starter not turning over and the CEL coming on. Bad solenoïd contacts dont trigger a CEL. It would be the gas cap then. Got time to loose this afternoon...

Nathan, if i'm right in reading this litteraly and in tinking this means the starter does'nt turn over, than it cannot be the crank or cam sensor cause a malfunction of those dont prevent the starter from turning but the engine from starting. But maybe Takami meant otherwise and then you might be right. Let's wait for him to come back from Autozone

It's not Haynes, it's the Subaru service manual for the Legacy. Some call it the FSM. F for Fuji?

Autozone is your best bet but if there is a relation between the CEL and your starting problem it could be ... P0705 - Transmission range sensor circuit malfunction. Problem with the «inhibitor switch» at the shift lever. Try starting with the shift lever at D. If starter turns, you've found the problem. Put your foot on the brake! or, P1100 - Starter switch circuit malfunction. I'm just reading from the service manual...

Auto trans or manual?

Just a guess, but seems you have an ignition switch problem. Other opinions will certainly follow. Good luck!

8L per 100 klms or 30 mpg on a non stop higway trip. But almost twice the gas for the same distance when I resume pure city driving during the winter months. :santa: «Real» city driving though : very cold wheather, shorts distances, stop and go driving, idling at traffic lights, never more than third speed, etc.

Very good trouble shooting guide, Cookie. I would only add the starter relay wich is under the dash left of the steering column (in my 96 Brighton at least...) This relay is in line with the clutch starter cut off switch. More precisely, the cluth switch acts as ground for this relay. If it's the clutch switch, dont bother to buy and install a new one. Just bypass it permanently. That's what I did and I still depress the clutch every time I start just out of habit. Since it's a safe habit, i'm not fighting it. :cool:

With symptoms such as you both get, why not, if manuel trans, look at the clutch pedal start defeat switch and at the starter's relay (under the dash) and if auto trans at the starter's relay also and at the trans starter defeat switches (dont know much about those, only that it's more complicated than with a mt). I would look at that before tampering with the ECU.

The crank angle sensor costs 17$ at 1stSubaruParts and takes 3 minutes to install. So why not try it and see.

My Brighton has 200,000 kilometers and also gets 8L per 100 kilometers when i do pure highway driving (110-130 kmph). The minute i do city driving it takes a lot more gas than that.

Strange. Never had that kind of a problem with winter blades here and we have the worst kind of winter immaginable: extreme cold spells with wet and warmer days in between, etc. I buy Canadian tire's teflon coated winter blades every december and leave them on all year. I put an extra spring (a few cents at the same stores) on the arms to prevent them from lifting at high speed. Just my experience.

A few days ago I promised someone (searched for the post but did'nt find it) I would post the procedure to test for a clogged converter with a vacuum gauge. I'm finally back home so here it is: Connect the gauge to the intake manifold (dowstream from the throttle). «Run the engine at about 2500 rpm for about 15 seconds. If vacuum drops during the period and does not incrase when you close the throttle, you're almost certainly looking at a restricted exhaust.» Hope that's not to late to help.

I have at home a procedure - using a vacuum gauge - to test for a clogged converter. I'll try to post it as soon as I can.

We all have our shortcomings. Woody Allen is no exception. But he is also intelligent and THAT is a rarity. But maybe we should stick with car topics... Well in fact I'm not sure, in fact i'm never sure of anything... Oh God! I'll talk to my analyst about that...