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(1) I've often read that phosphates and other chemicals (dont remembrer their names) found in regular antifreize are bad for aluminum engines and radiators. Newer long duration stuff dont have those chemicals and are usually recommended for that reason amongst others. What's the score on this? (2) On my 96 Brighton, the cooling system was filled with the green stuff when I bought it used and I replaced it with the orange stuff 3 years ago. Not a leak anywhere since that time*. Just my experience. Maybe there's another factor involved in those leaking cooling system. * I've removed the radiator a short time ago to replace the timing belt and i could see no unusual corrosion where the hoses connect to the radiator. Moreover, but I'm not absolutely sure about that, i think I remember the oultet and/or the inlet hose fitting(s) of the radiator was (were) plastic.

4WD or not the rear diff's planetary gears are always turning and meshing (the wheels are still spinning at a different rate when you make a turn) but are not under load when not on 4WD. I would suspect they still will be warming up but maybe not as fast. I would also think the front diff will warm up faster cause (1) it's always under load, and (2) it gets some heat from it's proximity with the engine.

I use Canadian Tire's regular semi synth in my gear box (just a tad more expensive than dino) and have no grinding problem. I dont «race» though.

All I can say is i changed the rear diff oil two times on my Legacy, did'nt put anything but diff oil on the treads and have not had any leaks from there.

I only go to the «shop» to have my winter tires put on and later replaced by summer tires. It's convenient cause they store the tires in the interim. I make no secret of the fact i'm watching them but I try not to get to much in the way. I made friend with a guy there by telling him that i was in fact watching him and that if he did something wrong I would tell him and if all he did was perfect then I would learn something from him.

That's why open diff AWD cars like most Subarus should be called more properly «all axles drive car» . That said I drive in all kinds of winter road conditions and I've never been stuck with no traction anywhere. I've even been up a short hill so slippery that when i went back down, I slided down right to the bottom with all wheels locked.

Could be many things but your symptoms are in line with a coolant temp sensor malfunction. The sensor send to the ECU the info that the engine is cold when in fact it is hot. The ECU sends to much gas and floods the engine (too rich a mixture). That's why you can start with the pedal to the floor : you give the engine more air and that leans the mixture. A possibility to investigate. The fact that there's no CEL is strange though. When that happened to me (same symptoms) the CEL had been on for quite a while.

In all probablility, your water pump seized and caused all the damage you described. Wise thing it seems to replace the pump when replacing the timing belt or at the very least at the second belt change.,

Me too, cause i always do that and have not had any (detectable...) ill effects up to now. Much easier to remove them next time. Always ready to learn something new though. By the way, I only put the fluid reservoir and air filter cover aside to get at the plugs. Never felt any need to remove the battery.

96 Legacy Brighton wagon. Once, a full size fridge + luggage and gear for two... and the rear hatch closed, but not an inch to spare. On another occasion, a full size ceramic top stove. Still could close the hatch. Finally 1,000 pounds of sheep manure... in sealed bags + two persons. Rear suspension was a little low but still could go up long and steep hills fast in fourth.

Since they're cheap, I have both but I prefer Haynes's. It's more explicit most of the time. Here and there, Chilton's is ridiculously misleading. Example: it tells you to remove the timing belt to replace the crankshaft position sensor. . A five minute repair can then become something major and all for nothing. Comparing both is often useful. My 2 cents.

And put a little anti-seize grease on the threads for next time.

Vise Grip makes a medium size (rather small) chain wrench that i used to remove the cam sprockets on my 2.2L. I guess it could also work on your engine if the strap wrench does'nt. Of course wrap part of the old belt around the sprocket to protect it. In my case I used this chain Vise Grip not only to remove the cam sprockets but also the crank pulley. When you look at it you might think the handle is too short to get good leverage but the fact is you dont need it ; the handle always catches on something and frees both your hand to work the breaker bar. It worked perfectly in my case.

Replaced mine on a 96 (2.2L). Measure the new one to find a suitable open wrench . I dont remember the exact size. Just bend over the right fender and go at it. No need to go under, put the car on ramps on remove the heat shield. It's just under the right side inner cv boot. It took me 5 min to remove it, 10 to splice in the new pigtail (i bought a cheaper universal one) and 5 more to screw the new one in. I usually take more time than most people here to do a particular job. So it must be very easy. Good luck!

It's stories like this that make us shade tree mechanics think that we're not so bad... in comparison

On cars with auto trans only. It disengages the rear wheels and make you car a fwd car.

The last and only time these lights were on is because i had tripped the switch accidentaly = No start on a very cold morning. That's why I question their usefulness: they can drain a battery if you leave them on overnight. Or maybe my battery was allready weak...

If you install a Fumoto valve be ready with washers of different thicknesses. The position of if (without the hose nipple) was perfect when I first installed it but then I replaced the oil pan and on the new one - and using the previous washer - the locking lever is hanging down. I will replace the washer with a thinner one at my next oil change and be able to screw it in a little more thus rotating the lever up.

Like I said on the old thread, your symptoms seem to point to cylinder pressure getting into the water jacket (head gasket leak, cracks...). Look for air bubbles in the overflow thank or oil in the coolant. Those that had this happen to them will certainly chime in. In the meawhile, answering Subiegal would be helpful to those trying to help you: what do you mean by "my radiator blew up"? What symptoms? How did it happen?

Nice change. :-)