frag

I bought one a while back and it works perfect. You'l like it.

Also, if you drive in water above the axles, I guess water could enter the wheel bearings thru a worn seal.

Evo, I only see this as a math and/or mechanical enigma. That's the only reason you've got me interested in it. It's also a challenge for reasonning. Argument 1 (a fact): nobody else gets the speed rpm relationship that you get. With comparable engines and trans, people get around 1000 rpm more than you do at the same speed. Hypotheses 1 : You're not really going 60 miles an hour. Answer 1 : You've tested your speed and it's exact. Hypotheses 2 : You've got a non standard trans and/or diffs. Answer 2: You've got a standard trans and standard diffs. Hypotheses 3: You're tach is off. Answer 3: you've tested your tach and it's exact. Final conclusion : Since you're speed and tach are right, since your trans and diffs are standard and since you register around 1000 rpms less than the rest of us at the same speed, your car is host to a miracle. In all logic, I dont see another possible explanation. I did'nt think a car forum would be, for me, the place for a life transforming spriritual experience but I must admit this is it. Where will all this lead me ? I dont know yet. Wish me luck.

Just want to understand how you account for the fact that, at 60 mph, I and about every other poster cruise at more than 1000 rpm over your figure? Bad tach? Special trans or diff? Illegal substances? Edit : if true you would be going at 120 mph at 3,200 rpm....

Are you sure?

Maybe you should look at both ends of the rear stabilizer bar.

I see you have a couple of Toyo Spectrum at the front. That's what I have on my car and I like them. Did you check that the circumferences of all four tires are not too far apart?

Two caveat: 1) Go easy on the pinch bolt. If it's rusted it can be easily broken. Use lots of Liquid Wrench (or similar) and even heat the part of the knuckle where the threads are. 2) To remove the ball joint stud, a ball joint fork does marvels (costs almost nothing). It will destroy the joint's boot, but since you're replacing... You put the openning of the fork around the stud between the ball and the top of the control arm and you hit the tip of the handle straight on towards the wheel and not downwards like I've sometimes seen some people do. Put antiseize grease everywhere when you put back everything in place. Good luck.

Does that mean I'm not the only one to feel a sumo wrestler is not very sexy ?

Cool! How did you find the faulty injector?

Just repeating what I've read here numerous times : put your hand on the strut/spring and if you feel vibrations when you spin the wheel, then the bearing is at least starting to go.

Which confirms that number 13 really brings bad luck :-p . Maybe the ECU is supertitious.

Maybe the power to the starter gear that engages the flywheel toothed ring shuts off normally, but the gear, for some reason, does'nt disengage immediateley from the flywheel ring gear. An inspection of that part of the starter assembly could be your next step. Good luck!

I put some scratches on the right rear fender and rear passenger door of a very clean grey Civic more than a week ago (please dont ask me how). I left a very visible note (8.5 X 11) on his (her?) windshield with my adress and phone number. Then I called my insurance and gave them all the details I could gather (licence number, etc.). Two hours later, I had to go out and saw that the Civic was no longer there. The driver never called me!!!!!! Maybe there's a God for honest people...

Do I understand that you dont remove the shafts from the wheels, only from the trans ?

With boiling hot coolant getting into the overflow reservoir, is it not normal that some water dissipate into the atmosphere as vapor? I've always thought that was the cause of the small coolant losses i get. Like down an inch in 6 months.

No one talks about the half shafts. I always thought you have to remove the axles if you drop the trans. How do you do it, and how can it be done fast? Am I missing something here? Happens...

+ 1 on this one. But go easy on those hex head screws. It's very easy to break them if they are rusted. Been there...

If you use the proper spark plug socket and extension, start threading the plug by lightly holding the extension with your fingers(without the ratchet). I've always used that method and never had any problems.

Not everybody (it's my case) has the place required to jack a car and put it on stands. That's why it's good to know it can easily be done from above and with no special tool. Did it twice on my car.

For a good exposé on which are the true timing marks... and with photos. http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=460

True. I meant the marks on the belt and the timing marks on the sprockets will again lign up only after a lot of rev. Sorry for the mix up.

If you are getting 0 compression on two cyl, the valve timing is certainly off. I'm with Evo on the fact that you have a non interference engine so no bent valves. Are you absolutely sure you are using the right marks not only on the crank sprocket but also on the cam sprockets ? Wht is your reference : Haynes, shop manual, Endwrench, etc.? You wrote that you spun the engine by hand to verify if the timing marks were correct. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by that : if the three timing marks are in alignment and you spin the engine, they will cease to be in alignment after one revolution and will not realign before a lot of other revolutions. HTH.

In answer to your first question, I myself get an open wrench on the O2 sensor from above without too much difficulty. It all depends on your waist line... As for the play in the shifter, it more probably is a problem with the shifter lever linkages and not the tranny. Do you drive with your hand on the stick? Others will certainly help you with the sluggishness issue. But with the milage on your car, start with replacing the O2 sensor and see if it cures the problem. If not, you're welcome to get back to this board. Good luck!

I've always thought bank 1 meant the front sensor and bank 2 the rear one. But what do I know...