frag

Inches...?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6oM13TnSzgU&NR=1 Look at this one instead. You'l go from "love handles" to "I love how it handles".

I think sregor is referring to Haynes. Haynes says to put the front timing mark (on the crank pulley) to zero (gradations on the outside of the front cover) AND put cyl no 1 at TDC. The result of that is the three (cams and crank) timing marks are already aligned when you open the cam covers. I did that the first time I replaced the belt, and it works. The second time, I just removed the belt and placed the pulleys in proper alignment. I think this procedure is useful mainly if you want to check the belt alignment without removing the belt and not spend to much time spinning the belt to have the three timing marks finaly align. By the way, the belt marks (on a OEM belt) are useful, for a non professionnal like me at least. If you dont use them, it happens that when you release the tensionner the three pulleys triming marks go out of whack.

Right behind the throttle body.

You can carry a full sheet of plywood if you put it on top of the strut towers. You can't close the hatch though. I once carried a full size fridge. It barely went in with the hatch closed. If it had been a quarter inch longer, I dont think it would have fitted though.

Yea! One could probably build a dashboard expresso machine using it as a boiler.

And the oil pressure (80 psi at startup) would probably be too much for the rad plumbing.

+1 I installed a «universal» rad on my manual and it comes with the trans cooler part. You just ignore it and all is well. I thought of maybe using it to warm the windshield washer fluid but I dont think it's such a good idea. Did someone think of other uses it can be put to?

sorry

^^^^ + 1, shhhh...

You replaced the right one. It leaves the connector and connections. The only thing that can give you a temp sensor CEL is a bad sensor or sensor circuit. Or a bad ECU but that's not likely. My .02$ Afterthought: where exactly does the sensor you replaced bolts into the engine?

Maybe the world would be a better place if everyone was convinced of that, especialy heavily armed countries and individuals. Is it alright if I use hockey cards in my spokes ? CH hockey cards ? Hope there are not too many Bostonian members reading this.:-p

First time I hear there's an adjustment screw for steering play. No wonder this is my car repair and maintenance university. What I know though is that steering play can also be caused by a loose steering universal joint (there are two in line) just before where the steering column joins the steering rack. Its accessible from above if you can bend forward far enough. In my case it was the second joint (hidden by the first one) and tightening it with a ratchet cured the problem. Good luck!

I can feel your aggravation zstalker, but silence can be dangerous in the proper context. I'm a fast cyclist, and pedestrian often walk blindly in front of me cause they have'nt heard me coming. That's dangerous for them and for me. We use both our eyes and ears to locate moving objects around us and when one of those ceases to be functionnal, we have a problem. About five years ago, riding a bicycle and making a blind left turn around a wooded piece of land on a paved country road, I almost ran into a black bear that was crossing the road. He did'nt hear me coming either (I can imagine the headlines in the local paper the following morning if I had struck the bear: "DANCES WITH BEARS" . Is that an argument to install artificial noise devices on all silent vehicles? Probably not, but there's sometimes a real problem there.

"While the Deltic engine was successful and very powerful for its size and weight, it was a high-strung unit, requiring much maintenance. This led to a policy of maintenance by unit replacement rather than repair in place. Deltic engines were easily removed upon breakdown, generally being sent back to the manufacturer for repair." Most of us not having public funding for engine maintenance, I doubt this will ever find it's way under the hood of a passenger car. Or maybe the car could be sold with one or two replacement engines...

It's about the separator plate not the oil pump.

Yes, I also would like to know the answer to that one. Why loctite on only one of the screws ? For my part, i put some on all of the screws.

Just to maybe put things into perspective, my engine has always needed 3 or 4 revolutions before springing to life. Be it at 30°C or -30°C. This seems to be common and I remenber discussions here about that where some members even thought that this was voluntarily engineered into the engine in order to raise the oil pressure a bit before the motor actualy starts. Of course, this does not explain why your engine started faster in the beginning. Just my .02.

Anyone know a good place to have that done?

+1 on that.

Sorry Evo, I replaced the clips and fork (and all the rest of course) and had the flywheel done, but I was short on time and I still have the new cable in its pack and that will be installed first thing when it's warmer outside. If I ever do it before you do, i'll keep you posted, it's a promise. I remember replacing the hood latch cable on a Loyale and it was a pita. Hope the clutch cable is a little easier. As for the clips, i remember having had trouble with them also. I think you can install them the wrong way and it seems ok but it's not.

With all those years, it might also be a good idea to replace the fork and retaining springs (or clips) and also the clutch cable. I did both on my car and it's a 96. Maybe I'm over cautious but that's not always a bad thing I also think having the flywheel resurfaced is a must. It's a little depressing to do all that work and be stuck with a chattering clutch! I had mine done for a little under 50$. Good luck with the repair!

To separate the motor (2.2L) from the tranny, use a very thin plaster spatula. Usualy, the minute the two parts will begin to separate, the rest will be a piece of cake. If you have difficulty and you want to use my method to the letter, here's what you do. (1)You hammer in (go easy) the first plaster spatula at a few places around the mating surfaces. (2) You hammer in a second sliding against the blade of the first one. (3) Hammer in a big screwdriver between the two blades. I garantee it will work and that it will not damage anything. HTH.

I once faced the same predicament. Here's what worked for me. 1) Wire brush and penetrating oil. 2) A small diameter triangular file. I used it in the "valleys" of the splines and the new one slid in without any problem. 3) Antiseize grease. HTH.

Why would it be? I do the exact same thing.