SoobGoob

Thanks somick, I tried waiting with key on before starting but I will try again today. Maybe I didn’t wait long enough.

My uncle bought a 2010 outback 2.5 auto, which shortly after the battery went bad. He had it replaced at Autozone and after the replacement it started throwing three codes. u0122 lost communication with VDC module P0700 trans control sys (mil requested) P1718 DTC definition not found occasionally I get a wheel speed sensor code but I can’t remember which circuit Symptoms are ABS light on, at temp light flashing, won’t shift back into park from drive. Hard start, starter almost feels like it sticks. battery is a cheap econo whatever. Seller offered to cover labor at shop, they plugged in diagnosed the abs pump swapped it and there was no change. The shop was down the street from me and he asked if I could store it for a bit so I’ve been working on it. All of the problems started when the battery was replaced. work/diagnosis I’ve completed. Reset computer multiple times. Cleaned grounds. Tried larger interstate battery. Checked all fuses and fuse voltage drop test (all good). Charged battery. Voltage good, alternator charging. Swapped back in known good abs pump. Idled it for a while. Drove it around the neighborhood but not on freeway. Looked for loose connections. It about to go to the dealer unless anyone here has any insight, it seems to be a common problem but with no common solution. Thanks all!

@GeneralDisorder I just ordered 4 valves 8 guides and 16 seals through the machine shop totaling only 120 bucks. This seems like it will be much easier a job than the delete and cheaper. Thanks for your input, hope all is well!

Is this the valve grind job with a drill I’ve read about? I would love to do just the 4 valves and sell off the extra heads I purchased.

The only machine shop in bend is weeks out on any head work at all. Is replacing valves easily done? That is one job I have not done yet

Hey everyone it’s been a long time since I’ve needed to ask for advice! I currently am working on a 09 forester xt i picked up cheap with a slipped timing belt. Drivers side exhaust valves are bent. I picked up a pair of good second hand heads but they are pre secondary air pump. I see this is a common delete with this engine but my big question is, will it run without having the ecu reprogrammed? I understand i will have a CEL. I will get the reprogram done but I need it to at least be able to drive out of my shop and the 25 miles to home. Thanks all in advance for the help!

Oh and this brat is completely rust free, even the bed still had all of the factory paint

There is a good chance he has the year wrong, it is definitely a turbo. I looked it over it has the correct mirrors, trim, engine, etc. I do have the mechanical knowledge to do the work required (thanks Rick). If the heads are cracked can they be repaired? Also what is the likelihood they are cracked? Same as every other Subaru? I know these early turbos have a unfortunate disposition. Oh and they didn’t specify the condition of the head, it was a son talking for his father who had bought it but then couldn’t find a head. So it may be a head gasket or a bad head.

Patiently waiting for @GeneralDisorder to fill me in.

Hey everyone, long tim since I posted on here, maybe 10 years. Glad to see this forum is still around and hopefully not full of all the kids that used to own civics that switched to Subaru’s. The reason for today’s visit is that while pulling parts for my brothers truck I happened across 3 brats on a farm property, 2 standard 4wd ea81’s with a topper mostly in good condition. But inside the old auto shop next to the paint booth for the last 20 years sat a dusty but clean and straight 1986 turbo brat with 82k on the clock. Parked due to a bad head. I have the right of first refusal at a good price but wondering if the turbo heads are different from the na engines? I know these cars aren’t the pinnacle of reliability but Ive always wanted a brat (not an auto though) anyway. That’s my question! and for those who skip to the end. 1. can I use na ea81 heads on a ea81t motor? 2. if not, who has a set they would sell me?

I read online on some compiled brake info the gt rear brakes are larger than my rear brakes? Is this not true? Like I stated it is a forester s so it does have disc. Thanks numbchux

Sorry idosubaru I didn’t have the year when I posted. I do now, it is a 98 Gt limited. From what I’ve read the front brakes are the same but the rears are larger. I’m mainly looking for upgrade parts.

hey all, been a long time living in the toyota world. recently purchased a 2001 forester s for commuting. also recently my friends 2nd gen legacy gt got hit by a drunk driver and is destined to the scrapper. he gave me the go ahead to swap whatever i feel i want. obviously the gt wheels are the first grab, beyond that im not sure what else will fit. so thats what im wondering, if anything else between the 2 platforms will bolt on? hopefully the larger rotors and calipers? cheers

Update: got under it today armed with some soapy water and found one small exhaust leak at the bottom of the uppipe. I'm going to replace all of the exhaust gaskets on the front. Took off the intercooler visually inspected for any leaks and made sure everything was tight at reinstall. Cleaned the iac and the throttle body. Found a digital boost controller under the dash, hooked back up, found turbo timer and hooked back up but car won't stay running after I turn it off. Found TD04 turbo from wrx. Found greddy fuel management system with "active" light lit. Going to get all the manuals for these items before I fudge with it. I'll keep you updated after I replace the exhaust gaskets. Would even a small exhaust leak make a difference? Also noticed on the boost gauge that I never boost over 7-8 psi