zukiru

2wd xt front struts make the front sit lower than wagon struts., that's all i know from experience.

Well? How did it go?

expansion chambers on 4 stroke bikes are done to enhance the sound . They don't work for adding horsepower to a 4 stroke engine as far as I know.

No mods. They are lug centric. Not hub centric. Bolt right up. And yeah. they look good.

Is there some meat left between those holes on the cross member I'm interested in that modification but I'm not sure if it would past tech for Rally Cross

I like! But i have the same set...

The aftermarket one vibrates. :drumhit: I'll be here all week! The one aftermarket one i have is painted black not green....

the ester additive is 1%??? :-\ bahahahahah!!!!!!!!!! and they 11+ a quart for a conventional oil with this 1% additive? marketing wins. thanks for the article though. that coating is a very interesting device. I seriously doubt using regular old oil is going to hurt things very much. do you own a Maxima? the new ones are pretty good looking for a 4 door nissan.

Yeah never heard that abut the Nissan VQs. Sounds like i need to do some research. none of our shop books nor the computer program have anything about that in it... at least Hondas doing their free oil changes with the proper mobile 1 oil. even the customers with free oil changes from Honda don't want to wait 3 hours to get an oil change...

Honda dealer uses Mobil 1 so i let them know that too. Think I read that the BR-Z uses 0w20... And only wants the oil changed at 7500 miles

Sounds like you are in a similar line of work as i am. Some of the Ford v8s run 7 quarts of 5w20. The Mazda dealer locally puts 5w20 in their vehicles that "require" 0w20 Like you, I find it hard to imagine that watery stuff making much oil pressure. But I belive it takes less energy to pump it. Plus I get more commision every time a sell a blend or a full synthetic so works out for me. At the same time, I'm very honest with my customers so I at the very least let mazda folks. Know that the dealers are putting conventional oil int there vehicles.

Thanks for clearing that up. Are you interested in doing the 4x100 hub conversion? I feel like I can do it. But it would most likely come out better if you do it.

yes. a redline a day.... at least 3 for me. the valves float somewhere over 7 grand on the 88 XT-GL and I run rallyX in first gear. all the way up to 5 and 6 Gs with no loss of traction in dirt/grass! MPFI is fun.

hey scott. I have a need for 4X100 hubs, I have a set of front hubs I could send you but not sure what I would do about the rears in the interim. it's cool though money is tight till after christmas anyway. seem the rims I want have a bad offset for a street/rallyx XT in 4X114.3 +25 the 4X100 version is +40 offset which seems like it will tuck better. are front hubs and rear hubs (disk brake set up) the same or diffferent from each other. the site I was looking at said the rear hubs had a 4X100 patter where the rotor bolts on and the fronts had a 90mm pattern. I don't see any reason for them to have 2 different hubs... if those holes are already 4X100 the conversion would be much easier... as I said I have a set of front hubs if you want to try and work out the 4X100 set up. thanks for your time. big fan of what you bring to the lifted community and can't wait to see what you can "drum" up (pun intended) for us "racer/ricer guys"

I'm running valvoline 5-30 maxlife. everything seems good with that. sometimes when the car is good and warmed up I get a fairly low oil pressure reading but I think it's within spec.

I had a similar issue. turned out that XT pulleys have a pin. it won't stay tight without that pin in place.

just swap everything. keep the mpfi the main things to add to the 2wd are center driveshaft bearing mounts and the rear diff hangers for the mustache bar.

solutions for tick of death. cheap to expensive 1. change oil. 2. run one quart of ATF (has detergents) this solved mine. (remove at next oil change) 3. Seafoam in oil 4. reseal oil pump 5. NEW oil pump. don't throw an oil pump at it until you've tried cleaning the gunk out of your oil.

the tach fluctuation is likely dash grounds. not sure about a blinker making the engine cut out... that's odd..

The first one I got would've been a money pit. I ate my 5 Hundo plus travel expenses and made it a parts car. You should consider whether you keep fighting it or get a nicer one and transfer your new parts.

Somebody needs to cut some of these off and put them on a loyale http://www.performance-car-guide.co.uk/images/L-Mitsubishi-Starion-Turbo-Wide-Body-9.jpg

hmm. maybe MY DL needs one then. the GL has the hillholder still hooked up.

the plural of moose is also moose. also

i don't know about anyone else... but my pressure plate returns the lever just fine. when it quits doing that I won't exactly need the cable to go back because my clutch will be out.

^^ sounds like a good plan to me!