MaximusGradient

So I've noticed the AC seems to have stopped working in my 2000 Legacy. Normally, when you press the AC button or turn on the defroster you'll notice a slight bump in RPMs, hear it kick in, and most importantly the air gets cooler and drier. Well none of that happens now. However, my question is this: I just had the head gaskets and timing belt replaced a few weeks ago, and it seems like that is when I first noticed the AC had stopped working. Is there perhaps something that the mechanics simply forgot to hook back up that could cause this? I'm not very savvy when it comes to car AC systems; however, I do know that AC repairs tend to be very expensive, so hopefully nothing is actually broken. Thanks for any insight!

So I've noticed what I think is an exhaust leak in my 2000 Legacy. Under moderate/heavy throttle I can hear a low rumbling from under the car, but it's not present when idling or just generally driving in the city/highway (I need to really romp on the gas, like when passing somebody on a two lane road). The heat shield was loose behind the "Y" so I put a hose clamp there as a temporary fix, but it worked itself loose and has been buzzing for a few weeks now. Could the heat shield buzzing against the pipe conceivably cause an exhaust leak? I haven't had time to crawl under the car, so I'm still in the brainstorming phase right now...any thought would be appreciated!

That's really good to know, It's been feeling like I was the only one with this particular kind of shudder. The mechanics just looked at me like I was an idiot when I described it, and just told me it was "normal with subarus." I'll suggest that they put a new flywheel in...I guess I can't really order them to do it since I'm not paying for this job and it's just warranty work. Another question - I just got a message from the shop and they said they ordered a new clutch assembly. What exactly is included if you order a new assembly? I'm assuming it's everything from the throw-out bearing, pressure plate, etc. to the clutch disc? Would it include a new flywheel, or does that have to be separately ordered? Thanks for all the help guys, this is great.

Replaced the slave cylinder and that fixed the pedal pressure issue, but the shudder is still there. I had a buddy who's a Subaru mechanic drive it around and he said there's something definitely wrong. Since it's Carmax they offer this 30-day warranty to everybody, so I'm sure they just skipped out on a lot of parts and lied to me about the new clutch assembly and whatnot. I'm taking the car back in this week and I'm making sure they replace everything and get it working properly. Hopefully this will be the end of it...

Yeah, replacing the slave cylinder is actually tonight's big project. We're hoping that will fix all the problems including the shudder, but if not I'll just have to take it back and throw some TSBs in their faces and make sure they fix it properly this time. I never knew Subaru flywheels were thin, that's good to know... Thanks for the suggestions/info guys, keep them coming if you have more! Sean

First off, I tried searching the forums for a problem similar to mine, but couldn't really find anything...so here's an explanation of the problem. A few weeks ago I purchased a used 2000 Legacy L wagon from Carmax (I know, probably not the best choice for a dealer but I needed a cheap used car fast) knowing that it had a clutch shudder problem. They told me it would be fully covered at no charge under the 30 day warranty, so I went ahead and bought it thinking they could just fix it and everything would be bueno. It wasn't a cold clutch shudder/judder problem like most other people experience. In fact, the shuddering was less violent when the car was cold. It would shudder when starting from a dead stop in 1st, but it would also shudder violently when letting the clutch out while downshifting during braking/deceleration. This shuddering would get worse as the vehicle warmed up. Also, the clutch peddle would develop a lot of play as it warmed up, and it got to the point that I could press the peddle down halfway easily with my hand. Well, I dropped it off last week and apparently they resurfaced the flywheel and replaced the clutch assembly. Got the car back last Friday and the clutch still shudders, but now it shudders more violently than before when starting from a stop in 1st, yet oddly enough it shudders less violently while downshifting during braking. I talked to the mechanic who worked on it today, and he told me the clutch needs a break-in period and the shudder will go away, and as far as the peddle developing play he said that's normal. All that seems like BS to me...if you put a new clutch in it shouldn't shudder anymore, and a clutch peddle shouldn't change pressures no matter what. So, any thoughts on what is causing this shudder and/or peddle play? I have some theories, but I'll wait to see what you guys think...Thanks! Sean