ChuChi

Cool. Good to know I'm on the right track. For the heads I sent them to a shop to be refurbed/repaired. I have trust issues with used so would end up refurbing those anyway if I bought them. Replacing the valves is cheaper than a used set of heads so I went for it. If this was just replacing a leaky head gasket and I trusted the heads I pulled off, I completely would've gone with the GD bench resurface. The only thing that threw me with the water pipe was how different the o-ring they gave me was from the piece I pulled off. Hard plastic washer vs. squishy rubber ring. The size is right though. Interesting thoughts on the PS-pump. Guess I'll see how I feel about it once it's all back together and make the decision then.

See my post on the first page. According to the receipts we got when we bought the car, this belt has 65K miles on it. Not what I would call 'overdue'. Cause of the break is still unknown. No evidence of abnormal belt wear (other than the break), idlers and tensioner in good shape for the most part, some small gaps in the timing belt cover seals but not dirty inside. And my next round of questions: 1) Suggestions for preparation of the gasket mounting surface of the block? Again everyone seems to have their favorite. I'm planning on starting with carb cleaner and a gasket scraper and only escalating to scotchbrite if I need to. 2) During the process of pulling the motor I ended up removing the water pipe from the top of the block. This is what the upper radiator hose attaches too and has a single large connection to each side of the block. The gaskets that are in there now appear to be flat, black, hard plastic, washers. The local dealer wasn't sure on the part, but gave me rubber o-rings since the computer told him to. What should I be using? Nothing came up in a search so it can't be that complicated, but this is something I want to make sure isn't leaky... 3) One of the bolts attaching the power steering pump to the block stripped out. Recommendations on repair? Heli-coil?

And here's the good stuff. Heads came off super easy. I can see why some people do this in the car. But here's the damage. First the piston tops. It's easy to see where the exhaust valves impacted in all four cylinders. Harder to make out where intake valves hit, but there was some damage to those too. And now the valves. It's hard to get good pictures showing how much these are off. From the compression test with a new timing belt, cylinder #1 had 90psi while the other 3 were 0. Easy to see why here. I'm a bit surprised #1 held pressure though. This is #2, #4, and #3/#1.

So I'm a bit late with the pictures, but better than never... Right now the dis-assembly is complete. I decided to send the heads to a shop for repair and refurbishment rather than used heads and the bench resurface. The cost to bring these back to life is certainly more than a used set, but will greatly increase my confidence once everything's back together. Spending the down time buying all the gaskets, hoses, and bits that will be replaced as it's re-assembled. Here's a rough run down of the past several days. First, what triggered this whole thing. I recommend you never let this happen. Initial removal of all the accessories and intake manifold went very smoothly. Just had one stripped bolthole with one of the power steering pump bolts. Noticed the well used PCV valve too. And got the manifold off. Most difficult part was some of the electrical connectors sticking. I also had to eventually take the water pipe off the top of the engine to get some of the transmission bolts. At this point is when I decided to just pull the engine. A hand full of transmission bolts, engine mounts and a hoist. Turned out to add about half a day with a buddy. Most of that time was spent negotiating the best approaches to the lower trans bolts and cutting off stuck exhaust bolts. Had it out in time for date night though. In the second picture, just to the left of the center of the plate you can see where we found a spider egg sack. Didn't get a picture before it was wiped away. No idea how it got there or how long ago. Looks like the metal oil separator (yay), but what's that grungy looking cover to the left? Seems like I should do something about that... Also, when we first removed the engine it pulled the torque converter with it. Came out the oil seal and made a big mess. I pushed it back it for now, but since it came out I'll remove it again, replace the seal, and reseat it. Found this thread (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/79130-how-to-seat-your-torque-converter-by-mnwolftrack/?p=985663) which makes it seem very doable.

Small work update. I said I was a slow mechanic, but that was before the kid. Now I'm going on ~2hrs/day. Last night I removed the alternator, pulled the ps pump and AC off to their respective sides and removed the intake manifold. Looking down the intake ports the valves are visible. No noticeable damage, but I'm not sure it would be apparent from this angle. I have pictures but left the camera in the garage. Will try to get some uploaded tonight. I'm also holding off on buying the new-to-me heads until I have the current ones off and inspected. I'm not sure what valve replacements cost, but its on the table. I haven't purchased any new parts yet (except for the timing belt kit), but am keeping a running list of gaskets, hoses, and other bits that I'll need. I'll add a tap to that list. I've decided to go ahead and pull the engine rather than do the work in the car. From the point I'm at now its just mounts, torque converter, and transmission bolts. Plus it will give better visibility and control, more access to "since I'm here" bits, and my wife picked up an indefinite loaner from a friend so the time crunch is off. Makes this more a fun project rather than a required one.

Well, the HGs are fine, the valves aren't and I confirmed it tonight. I slapped the new timing belt on it and reran the compression test. 90 0 0 <30. Cylinder 4 the needle didn't move from ~0, but it let out a little hiss when I pressed the release on the tester. Calling on used heads tomorrow. I also noticed that I don't have the belt guide that sits over the crank sprocket. The mounting holes are there though. I think it was the service manual that said this guide is for MT cars only. Seems a strange difference. Any ideas why the AT doesn't get it? So what's the part number for the recommended replacement gaskets? 11044AA642? This is a EJ251 SOHC. And the head bolts? This car has already had it's gaskets changed so I'd like to play it safe and assume they reused the originals and it's time for new ones. Go stock here?

I need to do more research on the gaskets. I saw somewhere that the dealer still sells 'bad' gaskets, but the turbo gaskets are better? Then the aftermarket options... I'm open to advice and experiences. We bought the car with ~180K and documentation of head gasket replacement, timing belt, and related items being done at 155K. We have 220K on it now, so 65K miles. All the documentation I've seen says 105K on a timing belt so I was planning on catching it around the 250K mark. But some aftermarket belts are less I gather. My (painful, expensive) mistake there. I pulled the belt last night and all the idlers and tensioner felt ok for the most part. One was a bit rough, almost sandy, but still spun freely. I'll be replacing them, a Gates kit should be here today. Just after replacing the heads too. Ferret, I'm exploring some local options so don't hold them for me. If nothing better crops up I'll circle back though.

Thanks for the ideas. Started looking into the head gasket replacement procedures and it doesn't look too terrible. Certainly not as bad as I imagined. However if I went for Pick N Pull heads (or equivalent), I'd run them through a machine shop before putting them on the car. Don't want to end up with something warped or with it's own valve issues. I'll pay extra if I can find a rebuilt set rather than just 'used'. I was looking at Felpro gaskets. Everyone seems to have a favorite, and every option other than that is certain doom. Makes it difficult to narrow down the options. It is an auto trans, but I still don't have much hope. We were doing 60mph at ~2.5Krpm on a long flat section when it broke. I felt the snap and immediately looked at the dash. The only thing funny was the CEL. It felt like it took ~15-20sec before I figured out I had no power since we were basically coasting before the break anyways. The engine kept spinning all the way into the parking spot. The only conceivable way I can come up with that I dodged damage was if all 4 cylinders were mid stroke, the cams stopped fast enough to keep the valves out the way, and mid stroke for the valves is a non-interference zone. Good call on rerunning the compression test with a new belt. Should be a relatively quick test. The thought with running the test now was that I'm not going to damage anything that hasn't been already (as long as I don't move the cams). If I got compression on one, and 0 on another it would confirm bad news. All zeros doesn't really answer one way or another I don't think. Ferret, I'll play interested and would pay shipping if it falls into that <$50 category. PM me pics/history if you're up for it.

Car just gave a mild 'thump', turned on the CEL (Cam Position Sensor) and allowed me to coast it up an off ramp and even pull into a curb side parking space. Pulled the cover and confirmed the broken timing belt there on the street and had it towed home. Compression Test shows 0 on all four cylinders. I read that as very, very bad. But I was expecting to see some variation. Hard to believe I hit it just right to bend every possible valve. Of course, without the belt the cams are now "resting". Does this naturally put the valves in an open position halfway through the stroke? Any other logical investigative steps before pulling the heads? I'm trying to figure out how broken I am before picking the next path. The options I see are replace belt and cross fingers, rebuild and know for sure, or toss it and go with a new car/engine. This is a daily driver and I'm not a quick mechanic so we would likely be paying for the rebuild if it goes that way.

We just bought an '01 outback to replace the aging '87 GL as the daily driver. It's a higher milage one with 183k, but was owned by a traveling salesman and is almost exclusively highway miles. Head gaskets, timing belts, etc done at 150k. Seemed like a good deal. Getting the automatic was the compromise. We wanted a manual, but this was in great condition and seemed worth the sacrifice. Now it may be biting us... We've been driving it for about a week and this morning it wouldn't shift out of first gear. Back out of the driveway, shift to D (no compliants), drive/coast down the hill to the stop sign, take off and it stays in first. We are able to wind it up 4500-5k and it will kick into second and drive normally until the next stop. Rinse and repeat. I've been doing some reading around here and am getting familiar with the "shift delay" and TransX fix, but that seems to be targeted at the 99-00 years. Was there a big change from 00 to 01? Also not exactly the same problem we have here. I'm going to give the flush and TransX a shot tonight. I don't know when, or if, the trans fluid was replaced last so I figure it won't hurt anything. Any other ideas to check/try before getting bent over by a shop on week old (to me) car? I saw mentions of a speed sensor also and will be looking into that a bit deeper, especially if the flush doesn't do anything.

Ahh, mounts. That seems too obvious. Will check those this weekend. For the u-joint and torque arm I don't think I understand. This is happening while the car is in 2wd. Isn't everything rear of the transmission free spinning? (Also, thanks to the mod who moved this to the proper forum.)

We have an '87 GL wagon. EA-82 5sp-dr. For the past few weeks my gf has been complaining about a "banging noise" that the car would make while driving up hills. Actually, just one hill in particular that's fairly long and driven at freeway speeds (26 over sylvan hill for you Portlanders) however it doesn't happen every time. This is the only place where this noise has ever occurred and once cresting the top and starting the coast downhill, the noise goes away. We've driven this strech of road many times in this vehicle and others without incident so I'm ruling out the road surface. I'm thinking that it's the ~2 mile, high speed, uphill that brings this out. I've tweaked with a few bits (spark plugs, disti, lugnuts, carb, vaccum leaks) in shot-in-the-dark attempts to affect it without being able to experience it for myself. Tonight it finally happened while I was in the car. She was driving. I'd describe is as more of a 'thumping' than a 'banging' noise. Like the deep base of an exhust leak, something heavy hitting tight sheet metal, or the pounding of a drum. We can feel the vibration in the car. It's slight (my gf started 'ahhhhhhh'ing to make her voice warble) and not upsetting the handling, but strong enough that it feels like something could be impacting and concerning enough to kick in my "pull over" reflex. It's definitely speed, not RPM, related. Tests we did to try to narrow it down: Swerving in the lane with quick jerks - no change to noise/vibration Swerving in the lane with long, slight turns - pitch of noise raise slightly and intensity seems to decrease, but no difference from left to right No throttle, clutch in - noise/vibration stops 1/2 throttle, clutch in - noise/vibration stops No throttle, clutch engaged - noise/vibration stops Holding speed and shifting gears (varying RPM)- no change Downshifting and holding RPM (varying speed) - the frequency of the noise changes So it only happens when the engine in under load, which leads me to the engine. But it's only affected by changes in speed or handling, which leads me to the driveline, axels, wheels, etc. I'm stumped. Any ideas?

Is there a dedicated thread somewhere for this stuff? I couldn't find one, and if not there should be Anyways, if anyone can run these and PM/post back I'd appriciate it. Thanks in advvance. JF1GF4852WH812842 4S3BJ6337P6962012

You can absolutely use my pictures. If I'd known you needed pictures, I'd have taken more at each stage rather than just after all the shiny bits are in. I do have a few more pictures too, but I think I picked the best for the post. I'll PM you the link.

Nope, but I saved the disk and presure plate for wall hangings so can do that next time I'm out there. I can say it was way worn down. With the old one I had the cable adjusted all the way to the end still only had engagement at the very top of the petal stroke. New clutch + readjustment of the cable and I get full modulation now. Of course the glazing could have been part of my problem as well. Anti-afterburn? I missed that one. Where is this article? That's my understanding. It allows a bit of play between the shaft and the disc when shocked to smooth shifts out a bit.

It's a great question, what do you expect? Now where is this write up everyone talks about? I'm finding mentions of it all over the place but am having a hell of a time digging it up. I'm contemplating attempting to convert my EA82. There's piles of SPFI EA82 cars in the junkyards around here...

Just popping back in here for a quick update. We got the clutch replaced Saturday night (and Sunday morning). One of the side goals was to track down the massive oil leak(s). I also wanted to replace the axles, but they didn't arrive in time. I'll do that in a week or two. We started at ~4:00 Sat afternoon. We had little issues with getting the radiator out without buggering it and the lower transmission bolts, but at about 8:00 we were here: Can you see the oil leak? It's a doozy.... How about here? Yes, that's the valve cover gasket hanging down :eek: We also noticed some oil in the bell housing: At this point, we slipped the engine back into the bay for safe keeping and made a parts/pizza run. Also stopped by a friends house to pick up an engine stand to help with the valve cover gaskets. We find the only open parts store in town and get a rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, and some fluids just in case. We get back ~10:00 and open the valve cover gasket box to find this: I assume those are EA81 gaskets? The box says "1.8l (except Turbo) 1980-89". That'll learn me to open the box before walking out the door. I said said screw it. I can get real gaskets from the dealer this week and put em in with the engine back in the car. We also had a hell of a time with the flywheel bolts. Without being sure if it was the rear main or the oil separator cover that was leaking, we decided to the leave that leak alone for now. Plan is to rebuild this within the year so I can get it then. The valve cover is the major leak. Anyway, we moved on to the clutch. Fly wheel: Old and shiny vs. new and grabby: New vs. Old pressure plate: Everything installed and ready to go back in: The parts store also screwed up on the alignment tool. Luckily, it still fit in the pilot bearing and the was too small for the clutch. So we just wrapped it in a glove before shoving it in. Worked like a charm :cool: Took about another 4 hours to drop it back in and hook everything back up. Once we did, it wouldn't start :banghead: Everything pointed to a dead/dying battery. Weird since there was nothing wrong with the battery when we started, but everything was fine with a jump, so whatever. Went to bed ~sunup and vowed to fix it after some rest. Turned out to be corrosion on the cable terminals! Stupid problem and even more stupid that it took hours to figure it out. I blame it on lack of sleep. So yay for me! Thanks to all of you for the help and advice. I'll be hanging around here for some time. Now, for the unrelated questions that came up while going though this. I'll start a new thread if any of these warrant a separate discussion. 1) There was ALOT of oil in the air box. PCV is the obvious first stop, but the filter was fairly clean. Any other suggestions to track that down? 2) I found an exhaust leak. It's coming from the pipe that's in the foreground of the valve cover gasket pictures. It loops around the valve cover and mates with the block right by the main exhaust. I need a name for this pipe so I can go get a gasket for it too :-\ 3) The inside of the exhaust (both sides) looked like this. Is the white bad or normal? I've only seen that color on spark plugs before and that was very bad. 4) FYI, here's why I'm axle shopping. That's the second 'quick boot' I've put on it. It's on the third now. Still no clicking or shaking even though I rally-x'ed in a similar condition last summer. I'm expecting it to explode without notice

Alright, engine pull it is. Hopefully I can secure a hoist before this weekend. If I go with the "slide forward" method, rather than the "pull it out" method (that sounds dirty...) what can I avoid detaching? Or does it all need to come off anyways?

Wow, good info. I don't know how I didn't find those threads the first time around. I did check the USMB manual, but didn't find anything promising. Also found the Miles Fox page. But the "Clutch Service" link is broken After taking another look at it, the axles need replacing anyways, so that's a point in 'drop tranny' column. I do have a buddy coming over to help or laugh at my misfortune, depending. Is pulling the engine really easier? I understand the benefit of not having to be on your back all day, but it seems to be alot of smaller connectons to worry about and keep track of. More places to screw it up. I see that you can avoid all of that by just pulling the radiator and sliding the engine forward, but it looks like there's not enough space to get to everything that way. Plus I just did the coolant flush .

It's time to replace the clutch in the wagon! Probably do the axles too while I'm down there. I've got an EA82 with the DR 5spd. What am I in for? I've searched around here and found a lot of comments about how easy it is, but nothing really explaining what needs to be done. Is there a quick write up somewhere? I've got the service manual (useless) and the Chiltons (Step1: Remove transmission :-\). I'm looking for something a little more practical...

Thank you Loyale! This isn't really my first post, but it's been about 6 months or so. I guess old posts get deleted on occasion?? Thanks for the dealer idea, I always for get about them on older cars like this. I wonder if they'd be afordable I know you have to pay for easy and cheap is always hard, but I know how much effort I'm willing to put into it, and that's hard to explain, you know? Plus it never hurts to throw a probe out there and see what others have seen/dealt with. Maybe somebody found somthing that works wonders, or has rebuilt one in the past and can give me an idea of what it takes. I'm really just looking for an idea for what I'm getting into. I don't really have a dedicated workspace so I need to be able to move the car at the end of the day. That means I'm hesitent to start tearing into it unless I have a bit of confidence that I'm going to be able to get my brakes back. The leak is on the top of the unit, behind/under the lever the clutch cable attaches to. I last looked at it this weekend and am ~1000 miles away from it for the next day or so. I'll let you know exactly where it's coming from once I'm home again .

As you can probably guess, my hill holder is leaking. ALOT. About a full resivor in a week or less if it's driven a bit. So I need to plug the hole. This is the rally car and not a daily driver so I'm not attached to the hill holder, but I wouldn't mind keeping it around either. What I really want is the cheapest, easiest way to plug the leak. Are hill holders repairable? I found on thread where someone just replaced the O-rings. How difficult is that to do right? If repairing isn't feasable, how much for a new (to me) one? And the final option, if it's not repairable and several hundred for a replacement, How to take the whole darn thing out and still keep brakes on the right front wheel? It seems that the HH is the only thing powering that corner. Oh, and this is for an 87 GL wagon.