carfreak85
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Posts posted by carfreak85
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I constantly battle water intrusion on my three EA82 3-doors. While they have several leak paths compared to your wagon, my first inclination would be to check your taillamp gaskets, those are pretty easy to inspect. If perished/flattened reconstruct them out of closed-cell foam. Make sure any drain holes aren't plugged in those cavities. Does your wagon have a sunroof? Check that the rear drain tubes aren't leaking or disconnected.
If you're really unlucky you won't have found the leak yet and you'll need to get drastic. Best way to find leaks is with two people using high volume, low pressure water, like from a garden hose on full flow. Remove the interior plastic panels in the hatch area and sit yourself inside with the tailgate closed. Have your helper direct the water onto various areas like the taillamps, window gaskets, hatch seal, body panel seams. Inside the vehicle you'll want to be watching for any little drips or rivers of water getting into the interior.
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I've got an idea I want to investigate, but was wondering if anyone had any experience removing the bumper skin from the early EA82 front or rear bumpers. There are brackets bolted in the corners little clips on the skin that match up to cutouts on the bumper frame, but I would need 12 arms to compress all the clips at once. My only EA82 FSM is for the 1987 model year, so not helpful on the early bumpers.
Thanks!
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Any updates on the '87 evaporator core?
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On 4/27/2020 at 8:20 PM, Rampage said:
I have ordered bushings and other stuff from MSC Industrial Supply. https://www.mscdirect.com
Finally!!! A place that carries reasonably priced polyurethane sheets! Order placed, thanks for the link!
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User has not logged in since creating this post...
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Could create the rounded section with a sanding drum.
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BRATs never got a 4-speed automatic (4EAT), only the 3AT.
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Convert to 5-lug and use the air suspension designed for the late model Imprezas and Legacys.
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2 hours ago, Scoby4wd said:
Only listing at rock auto is for the rear bushings on the front swat bar and it’s actually the wrong size anyway. I did manage to find a suitable replacement for those however.
SuperPro, or a rubber replacement?
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15 hours ago, el_freddo said:
MY = brumby/brat but the wagon sedan etc. dunno why they’re know as this but that’s how their often referred to.
Cheers
Bennie
That's what they're traditionally called down under, in N.A. we just call them the "EA81" chassis.
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What color are the interior parts? Also, do you know what year and the mileage of the 5-speed transmission?
Thank you!
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Sent you a message @Crazyeights
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Ugh, I'm dealing with this same issue myself, but I haven't finished diagnosing the problem due to other projects.
Start here, these threads have been helpful so far:
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20 hours ago, Scoby4wd said:
Yes, it does. I just listed the cluster on the 4x140 facebook groups. Dash wiring harness is likely good too, how hard is that to remove?
The dash harness is pretty easy to pull once the dashboard is removed. Last digi-dash I swapped out I just left the dash in the car and snaked the harness out.
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On 4/11/2020 at 6:01 AM, Crazyeights said:
Thank you!
I have the flange and downturn of an aftermarket downpipe if you'd like that to start your custom downpipe. Located near Seattle, happy to ship it to you.
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On 4/12/2020 at 5:19 AM, lmdew said:
I know CCR use to knurl the piston skirts to raise the metal and then turn them for the clearance they wanted. Have no idea if Rick is still doing that or not.
He does. Wonder where he has disappeared to the last few weeks?
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Does that turbo wagon have an analog cluster? Willing to sell the cluster and dash wiring harness?
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30 minutes ago, rallybru310 said:
Yes, I’m definitely going to smooth out the engine bay as much as I can. As far as the wiring goes, I’m thinking of taking the harness outside of the frame rails (like donor legacy) makes sense to me. Are there any drawbacks for doing so that I should be aware of?
Water intrusion if you're routing it in the fender, would need to cut a hole to pass the harness into the cabin if not routing through the firewall. Where are you planning to mount your battery and jack? (Larger scissor jacks from, I think, older Nissan trucks are very similar and work on lifted Subarus)
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19 hours ago, tylertrend said:
Just gonna jump in quick. Can't help with a fuel tank but are you looking for an analog or digi-dash cluster and harness?
EA81-TURBO analog gauge cluster and analog dashboard wiring harness.
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2 hours ago, SiriusBlack said:
That hole could have been installed by a previous owner for an air to fuel ratio gauge.
The EA81T had the o2 sensor in the uppipe, the EA82T has the sensor in the downpipe. Besides those two differences, both the exhaust manifold and the downpipe can be swapped between generations, as long as you are aware of the sensor placement. That is likely what happened here.
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Are you planning to smooth down the engine bay and tuck the harnesses?
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You don't have to open up anything, just count the turns as you turn the trans input shaft or rear diff prop shaft flange.
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That isn't one of the three EA82 dipstick part numbers that show up in my parts book.
85-86: 11140aa00186-89: 11140aa002
89+: 11140aa050
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On 4/4/2020 at 4:55 PM, Steptoe said:
Keeping the fuel level up might help reduce problems but not practical for all applications
That's the shade tree solution. I would just do a surge tank, honestly. They're cheap, simple, and with a lift there is plenty of space to mount one.
@rallybru310 There is a guy on one of the FB groups with and EA81T wagon that I've been trying to get the gauge cluster and dash harness from. If you can find him for the fuel tank, perhaps we can both profit off his partout!
L series touring wagon roof racks
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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They use normal gutter clamps, I've used Yakima 1A mounts in the past with no problem.