carfreak85

Now I have to find an FF1, thanks guys for sending me deeper into the abyss!

Keep tabs on it. They can't sell it and it will eventually go to a scrap yard. Try to get it just before they send it off. I got a crappy old brat from my local dealership for $200 a couple summers ago.

I can't really tell in the head on pic, but if you don't have some holes bored in your bumper in front of your intercooler then its not doing anything. Airflow = cooling, no airflow = no cooling. I like the idea of expanded aluminum, maybe painted to match the bumper. By the way, I'm WAAAAYYYY jealous!!! :slobber:

Can we get a part number for those axles?

If you're serious about offroading, the option A is your best bet. If you are budget minded, go with B. If it were me, go A.

I'm amazed nobody else has posted a link to this. I know there is one other guy looking for vintage pics. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/rudy.html If you've seen this before I appologize.

I'll measure my hatch this weekend and edit this post with the numbers. *EDIT* I have about 11" at the front skid plate (10" at the Y-pipe) and 9.5" at the rear diff. This is on an '81 hatch with a 3/3" PK lift with 27" MTs. You mustang people with your crappy 4 link rear suspension. Hey, isn't the roll center of your front suspension underground? Hmmm, last time I checked thats about as poor as you can get from a handling standpoint.

Not much help for new gen owners here huh? Do you have an account with NASIOC? If not you can use mine. PM me for the password and user name.

BITE YOUR TOUNGE SIR!!! I bet (scratch that, I KNOW) my wagon is faster than any of your non-turbo EA71-81s. I've raced and beat a Weber'd EA71 brat and a 1275cc Morris Minor. Haven't had any HG or electrical problems on mine either (Knock on wood). You would be suprised how much get up and go these cars have. What about cutting out those peices of metal from another coupe and having them welded on?

Heres mine. Came from a JDM Toyota Supra with a MOMO adapter:

Just thought I'd explain my reasoning on stereos. I spend a lot of time in my car, driving to and from school, up to the mountains etc etc. I also really enjoy listening to music. I'm willing to drop the money on a stereo because of this. It just makes road trips and spending time in the car more enjoyable for me. Additional weight be damned! Its totally worth it. Just need to find a good sub and amps to finish it. Anyone have a JL W6 10 or Infinity Perfect 10 sitting around?

Been there, done that. Just wanted to know the speaker size. So sounds like 5 1/2" rounds MIGHT work. I guess I'll have to see when I head home this weekend.

Yes, SuperPro makes bushings for our cars, but it can take a while to get them since they have to turn them after they are ordered.

I'd also like to say that I bought one of Jerry's early kits and I LOVE it! I haven't had any problems to date with anything he fabricated. It is definatly worth the price to get his kit.

Depending on the year and trim level of your car, you may not have had speakers installed from the factory. Mine were water damaged from leaky quarter windows so I need to find some replacements.

I did a search, but came up empty handed. What size speakers are people using to replace the rear speakers in their EA81 hatchbacks? I'm looking for options, but don't know how big the stockers are and what can be shoe horned into the factory mounting points. So, what are you running?

Ok, I might be able to help here since my old man and I auto-x his WRX a lot. First off, what model are you using? This will affect how much you need to adjust your tire pressures. I'm assuming its a forester, but I can't read minds. The first "mod" I would do is more seat time. Seriously, there is nothing better than more experience behind the wheel of your car for getting better lap times. After that there isn't much you can do and still stay in stock class. Upgrading the stock tires is the best bang for the buck you can do to improve lap times. A front anti roll bar is legal as is an axle back exhaust. Struts are unlimited as long as they are stock replacements (KYB AGXs are popular). After that, have your suspension adjusted to get as much negative camber as the stock eccentric bolts will give you (Tipping the guy doing the adjusting will usually get you any settings you want). Hope some of this stuff helps in your racing! Oh and we usually run 40psi front and a little lower in the rear depending on how much scrub we have in front and how much wiggle there is in the rear.

Don't know what the problem might be, but start checking grounds for corrosion. That tends to get a lot of cars from the east. Also, an altimeter measures altitude, not electricity, thats what a volt or amp meter is for.

Looks like a fun little car. What are your plans for it?

My vote is in and it would be sweet to have them personalized again.

If the govenor gear looks good, save it when you replace the tranny. Could be worth something to someone down the line.

Awesome, thanks a lot! Off to the Wanted forum!

So after having a VERY annoying no-start problem on my 85 hatchback, I think we have found the problem. We traced the problem back to a bad hall effect sensor in the distributor. The only problem now is that we need new parts or a new(er) working disty, but we don't know what type it is and my FSM is for the 84 model year. The car is a 1985 4WD hatchback (EA81), 49 state I would assume. Anyone know which type of disty/parts I need or where I can get one?

Can anyone say run on sentences?

My 84 wagon has folding mirrors too.