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carfreak85

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Posts posted by carfreak85

  1. Necro-bump!  I actually stumbled across the dampening rates for the EA82 the other day and was kind of shocked to find out that the struts on the RX are about 2-3 times more stiff than the base GL struts, on top of having stiffer springs.

    Sadly, the struts are NLA for all RX-specific part numbers.

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  2. Yeah, caged ball bearings don't especially enjoy side loads, much less the forces you're putting on them with 10 -in. wide slicks!  The EJs moved to a pair of tapered roller bearing that tend to do MUCH better with side loads.  If you move up to the 5-lug conversion no only do you get the nicer bearings, but the brake options and steering knuckle geometry both improve over the EA parts.

    I was hoping to have my coupe rolled into the garage to start replacing that center diff (Track season is just around the corner!) but the RX in the garage decided to throw a couple new codes after I replaced the knock sensor, so the RX-RA repairs are delayed again...

  3. On ‎2‎/‎22‎/‎2020 at 1:19 PM, ckgeorge said:

    Thanks man, I'm actually planning to go rear wheel drive. Still deciding what engine I'd like to go with but strongly considering a carbed 13b rotary and trans setup. With some porting I'd like to be in the 150-200 whp range... nothing crazy but plenty for what I do with the car. Cheers!

    Might want to consider a rear suspension conversion as well, in that case.  Our rear wheel bearings really don't like RWD.  I killed the rear bearings in my RWD EA81T wagon with just 100 hp...

    On ‎2‎/‎22‎/‎2020 at 2:11 PM, idosubaru said:

    You use the wide band O2 just for measuring and then later adjusting the carb mixture?

    If carfreaks center diff failed and is locked, causing torque bind, it could be used for a RWD conversion, LOL.

    I've got an STI-catalog 20kg center diff to replace the blown one in the RX-RA's V3 JDM WRX transmission, she will live again!

  4. On ‎3‎/‎31‎/‎2017 at 5:06 AM, DaveT said:

    The CEL on and off is completely normal for the open coil failure. Almost every oem solenoid I have had has failed. I've been running ea82 cars since 1988. My same Toyota solenoids get moved from car to car, since about 1990. I'm in CT it is nowhere near as hot all the time here.

    @DaveT Do you know the part number for the Toyota part?  I've got a code 34 on my EA82T.

  5. I have had this discussion many times over and actually chewed out a coworker of mine this morning for blinding me as he followed me into the parking lot.

    The fact that Diode Dynamics put this out should tell you all you need to know.  You can't cheat physics and putting an HID or LED light source in a halogen housing will only result in poor performance.  Use brighter bulbs, rewire your system, retrofit your headlamps but for the love of all that is Subaru, DO NOT PUT HID/LED BULBS IN A HALOGEN HOUSING!

  6.  

    On ‎2‎/‎3‎/‎2020 at 6:27 AM, SubeeTed said:

    I want to try this AT-205 stop leak and it uses 1.5 OZ per quart of fluid in system .

    Don't.  As a design engineer for an OEM, I can tell you that we have analyzed those types of additives and they will end up doing more harm than good.

    On ‎2‎/‎3‎/‎2020 at 3:40 PM, Rampage said:

    For now, try a bottle of Trans-X. It is made for Auto trans and Power Steering. Just top it off with it and add when needed. Even Walmart has it.

    Get a pump from a junk yard or you can get a seal kit to rebuild yours.

    I learned about Trans-X here and it worked wonders on our 97 RHD.

    The best advice from this post is to source a spare pump that you can install or rebuild.  If the pump/lines/rack from the donor car aren't coated in PS fluid, you can just install the replacement pump.

    On ‎2‎/‎4‎/‎2020 at 7:53 AM, Numbchux said:

    I don't know the volume, and I won't help you put snake oil in your system. Don't do it. Fix it right, or keep topping it off. A couple ounces in a year is not worth causing more damage by pouring syrup in there.

    I agree with Numbchux, just keep adding ATF or replace it with a used pump.  I would also suggest putting a wrench on all the hose unions and clamps on the hydraulic system to make sure the leak isn't something that just needs a little tightening.

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