carfreak85

They are the same and will interchange.

Break it off with a hammer on a really cold day. *Edit* On second thought, you probably don't get many cold days in New Zealand.

On the Hitachi, the nipples for the fuel lines may be screwed onto the carb. This may also be true of your Weber, in which case you could just unscrew the stopper and screw on the return nipple. I say that they MAY be screw in because I did this a long time ago to my friend's car and his Weber had a press-fit stopper. After much deliberation, we decided to just replace the choke of his DGV with one that had two nipples already.

What kind of fuel system do you have? If its carbed, you can put a Weber carb, if its turbo you can put a boost controller on it.

Sorta in the same spirit, there is an autox in Bremerton if any PNW sube junkies wanna bash cones with me and my friends.

Lower the idle a little bit and change the oil, new gas and plugs. That should help. Maybe the air filter too.

I just make sure that when I put the new axle back in to coat it in grease. The stub axles on the tranny and the outer stubs on the axles alike.

It was probably the first time in a long time that that axle came out. My guess it that it was just stuck real good. A few good wacks with a regular old hammer should get one out.

Ross, I sent you a pm.

Well, I don't know anything about the bushing, but I have never used a steering wheel puller on my steering wheel. They have always come off pretty easily for me.

All EA71, EA81 and EA82 body styles had front e-brakes. All EJ body styles have rear e-brakes.

It would be sweet to drop in the 13.2:1 steering rack from the '05 STi in that package too. Or the Spec C rack!

Well, I can see how it might work. In my mind, the Front drive line is the real issue. You could do something like taking the front steering knuckle that the front axle of a subaru and adapt the suspension to that or find a knuckle from a truck that would attach the stock volvo strut. You could then adapt a custom set of front axles that would be the right length and style of coupling. Then the mounting of the AWD gearbox. That could get tricky too.

Oh boy! You don't know Ed! He is our PAP hermit out here, he might as well have a salery from PAP!

Yeah, 7.7 is the EA81T CR.

Those will look SICK!

Yeah, I'd go for autox. I'm going to be racing my wagon in SCCA H stock this season.

Just two?!?!?! NOOOOO!!!!!

I've got a Blaster II, but I have to admit, I put it in before the car was drivable so I can't tell you if there is a difference. I should probably put the old one in for a baseline.

Well from McBrat's list, it looks like a solid lifter engine, but if you're still not sure why not pop off the oil pan and take a peek.

I don't. As long as you don't over-slip the clutch, it will hold pretty well.

The Outback has a larger engine and more hp/tq than the OBS, but CAN BUT NOT ALWAYS have headgasket problems depending on the year.

What Jetta did those come off of? I might need some of those for my street rig!

It was expected. He had been in hospice for quite some time. Thank you for your condolences.