carfreak85

Report that seller to eBay!

I'll buy it if you decide not to use it.

Do you still have the dealership installation instructions?

Both sensors are still available new from Subaru, for now.

I dabble in all the current, living social platforms. Mostly so I don't miss any rare parts or cars for sale. You'll get faster and more varied replies on FB, but it's nearly impossible to do a longform post or build thread there.

What are your plans for radiator fans? Are you going to use the BRZ OEM fans?

Bump.

It's in the owner's manual. I think EA81 2WD tanks are 14.5 gallons and 4WD are 12.5, or something like that. hatchback tanks may be smaller still.

@FerGloyale Do you have photos of the modification?

Nice Volks! 16x7? I've got some SE37Ks on my bugeye.

Anyone found a direct replacement yet?

Bump.

RX body kit parts fit other EA82s. None came with vented or scooped hoods.

@GeneralDisorder Will have an opinion on this, I'm sure. When I rebuilt the EJ205 in my bugeye I was on a budget, but didn't want to cut any corners. My engine had spun a rod bearing and so the quickest route was an OEM shortblock. All the ancillary parts were OEM, unless being replaced with aftermarket. I added phenolic spacers between the intake manifold and the head, a lightweight flywheel, uppipe, and Group N engine mounts while the engine was out of the car. My other suggestions include: Go slow and read as much as you can before turning any wrenches. Lots of good content on NASIOC, IF you know how to filter out the noise. Keep things clean. Tools, parts, etc. Bag up the engine when you're not working on it. Break in the engine hard, don't baby it. Don't build boost or rev over ~4k rpm, but accelerate quickly and do as much engine breaking as possible in the first dozen or so miles. My engine doesn't burn a drop of oil and still makes great power 50k miles later. When in doubt, ask GeneralDisorder what to do next before moving forward.

Looks like he eventually swapped back to the OEM GL radiator after some overheating issues.

Got pics of your BRZ setup? Just pulled the trigger over black Friday on a Koyo radiator.

Woof... Vampire clamps and non-sealed connections. Reminds me of my cars in high school!

I wouldn't recommend running an EJ in front of an EA transmission, you're asking for trouble long term. There are some companies out there that manufacture go-fast parts for the EA81. There used to be a handful of experimental engine builders who had parts for the EA81 as well as Paeco Industries.

Ingalls used to make adjustable trailing links, but they've been out of production long enough that I don't think there's any NOS available.

I've got an 84,000 mile EA81T '84 hardtop. Needs some work, but she'll be on the road before too long.

That's still not an actual apology, like you said you would post...

I think you should go back to all the places you posted this and actually post the words "I'm sorry Shawn," and change the title of the thread, because he clearly didn't take your money and run. As stated by @Checkerboard Comet, a reputation can be ruined in an instant. You need to do your part to help rebuild the damage to Shawn's reputation.

You should sign up for one, as long as you don't go crazy and carry a massive balance month-to-month it's a good way to build your credit rating, important if you ever plan to buy a house, finance a car, or a lot of other things, actually.

Ok, that's good feedback to mull over. Assuming I want the full meal deal with anti-lag, launch control, etc, how much dyno time are we looking at on top of the price of entry to get a safe, solid tune? You mentioned one free hour of remote tuning, does that change if I bring the car directly to you on a trailer? (I have friends in PDX with garage space I can use to install the parts). Could I save the free hour and apply it after I've done some datalogging at altitude? Just trying to get a feel for the overall time and cost needed to make the leap.

Would you please post a list of the part numbers? I've got the catalogs to cross-reference.