carfreak85

Nice Volks! 16x7? I've got some SE37Ks on my bugeye.

Anyone found a direct replacement yet?

Bump.

RX body kit parts fit other EA82s. None came with vented or scooped hoods.

@GeneralDisorder Will have an opinion on this, I'm sure. When I rebuilt the EJ205 in my bugeye I was on a budget, but didn't want to cut any corners. My engine had spun a rod bearing and so the quickest route was an OEM shortblock. All the ancillary parts were OEM, unless being replaced with aftermarket. I added phenolic spacers between the intake manifold and the head, a lightweight flywheel, uppipe, and Group N engine mounts while the engine was out of the car. My other suggestions include: Go slow and read as much as you can before turning any wrenches. Lots of good content on NASIOC, IF you know how to filter out the noise. Keep things clean. Tools, parts, etc. Bag up the engine when you're not working on it. Break in the engine hard, don't baby it. Don't build boost or rev over ~4k rpm, but accelerate quickly and do as much engine breaking as possible in the first dozen or so miles. My engine doesn't burn a drop of oil and still makes great power 50k miles later. When in doubt, ask GeneralDisorder what to do next before moving forward.

Looks like he eventually swapped back to the OEM GL radiator after some overheating issues.

Got pics of your BRZ setup? Just pulled the trigger over black Friday on a Koyo radiator.

Woof... Vampire clamps and non-sealed connections. Reminds me of my cars in high school!

I wouldn't recommend running an EJ in front of an EA transmission, you're asking for trouble long term. There are some companies out there that manufacture go-fast parts for the EA81. There used to be a handful of experimental engine builders who had parts for the EA81 as well as Paeco Industries.

Ingalls used to make adjustable trailing links, but they've been out of production long enough that I don't think there's any NOS available.

I've got an 84,000 mile EA81T '84 hardtop. Needs some work, but she'll be on the road before too long.

That's still not an actual apology, like you said you would post...

I think you should go back to all the places you posted this and actually post the words "I'm sorry Shawn," and change the title of the thread, because he clearly didn't take your money and run. As stated by @Checkerboard Comet, a reputation can be ruined in an instant. You need to do your part to help rebuild the damage to Shawn's reputation.

You should sign up for one, as long as you don't go crazy and carry a massive balance month-to-month it's a good way to build your credit rating, important if you ever plan to buy a house, finance a car, or a lot of other things, actually.

Ok, that's good feedback to mull over. Assuming I want the full meal deal with anti-lag, launch control, etc, how much dyno time are we looking at on top of the price of entry to get a safe, solid tune? You mentioned one free hour of remote tuning, does that change if I bring the car directly to you on a trailer? (I have friends in PDX with garage space I can use to install the parts). Could I save the free hour and apply it after I've done some datalogging at altitude? Just trying to get a feel for the overall time and cost needed to make the leap.

Would you please post a list of the part numbers? I've got the catalogs to cross-reference.

Debit card offers zero protection, they're just plastic check books. Most credit cards allow you to contest a payment pretty easily.

I would have pulled the plug on the payment much earlier. Why did you wait almost six months before you did anything? If you paid with your credit card over Paypal (versus paying from your checking account) you can probably file a claim with them. With CC companies, it's on the seller to prove the product was delivered. Outside of the whole debacle with Shawn, consider this an expensive lesson learned about sending money through the internet. Doesn't sound like he was screwed by PayPal, he just missed the cutoff to file a claim by a week (which he very likely would have won).

I would recommend finding an OEM fan to use, they are better designed, better built and generally last the life of the car.

I hate to hear when a forum member gets screwed by another member, but this is the internet after all, and you are in charge of protecting yourself. @IROCDUDE89 How did you pay for the transmission? Paypal has buyer protection or if you used a credit card you can file a claim with them. If you paid as a gift, Venmo, wire transfer or anything else, consider this an expensive lesson.

@GeneralDisorder This is quite interesting, as I've been wondering about next moves for the RX-RA. I've got an 18 psi RobTune and the associated parts sitting on the shelf, but have never liked the adjustability of the tune (read, none) nor their abysmal customer support. I had been eyeing the ESL daughterboard for the last few years, but they've officially stopped developing the V1-3 boards, so no motorsport functions, but from an adjustability standpoint, the ESL sounds about the same as the Link, just with no local support.

The first intercooled Subaru we ever received in the U.S. (air-to-air OR Air-to-water) was the 2002 WRX. I have a '93 Type RA EJ20G in my RX-II coupe, and it is a lovely engine.

How about ANY of the hot Subarus built since, oh, IDK 1989 with an EJ-T engine? Don't forget that the fastest Subaru we had in the states until 2002 was the 160 hp, 2.2L, non-intercooled Legacy Turbo sedan.

No, not in Cali. Anything newer than 1974 will get smogged.

I've got an 05 Forester head unit (with WB radio) in my '02 WRX with an Aux input from Jazzy Engineering. The music doesn't get as loud as I'd like, even when turned up all the way, but it works and is plug-n-play.