carfreak85

I don't know where mine went either! I just made some new ones for the throttle/cruise junction.

Tell me something about those shocks on the rear of that wagon!

This is what I got. I have the cruise control that sits behind the passenger's side strut tower, so mine's a bit different, but I hope this helps! http://usmb.net/gallery/album272/IMG_0778?full=1http://usmb.net/gallery/album272/IMG_0779?full=1

NGK. I've used them on every sube I've ever owned and they've never let me down. Plus thats what FHI suggests using. CSK seems pretty cheap to me, at least in Washington.

There are EA81 GL-10s. I've seen 2 GL-10 coupes, but they were both 2WDs, doesn't mean they can't be wagons or 4WD.

Glad to hear the engine is stronger! I'll put this on the table. In a year, when the VRI gets strightened out (Messy rooms and all), bring the brat up here and I'll see if I can't get you on the dyno for free. I just want to see some numbers!

YEESSSS!!! Congrats Ed! Glad you finally got that sucker done! I have a feeling Dan will be going through the same deal with his brat. On a side note, I think emmissions is a great thing, not because it sucks all our money or saves the environment, but think of how poorly the carb and tuning of the engine before compaired to now! I ber you're going to get more power and better mileage now than ever before. You should also get that puppy dynoed so we can have some numbers for your build.

I think they would. It also contains tire inflation info and other important tidbits like that.

Depends on what your plans for the car are. If you plan on driving on the street or driving fast then go for the alloys. Lighter, stronger and just plain look better on a street car. If you're planning to go offroad, get the steels because if you bend a steel wheel, you can hammer it back into shape on the trail and replace it later as opposed to an alloy wheel where your basically F'ed. It all depends on your plans, so I hope this helped.

I am pretty sure it was 4WD. Off of a 1600 and was missing the the transfer case on the back.

In my Power Transmissions clase, one of our projects is to disassemble and reassemble a gearbox. We went out back to pic a trans and I saw the sube box just sitting there and I went mad! I never realized they were so simple inside! Mind you it was missing the back half of the case for some reason and had already had all the case bolts removed by some dingus who couldn't put them back, but I now realize that trans work is very easy on these cars! No pics, sorry!

I hate owning an obscure sube sometimes!!!

Do any of you turbo owners have the hose that connects from the thermostat housing to the turbo? Mine has a hole in it and Schucks and NAPA don't even have a PN for it. It is molded so I can't just use any old hose. Anyone? Mods feel free to move this. Might be able to get some pics.

Dashboard too, also the front suspension, stiffer and lower than non turbo cars. Fuel pump, aircleaner/AFM. Thats most of the important differences between the two engine types, I think...

I would do it myself, so it would be free. If its a sube guy, not too bad. If its a shop, you're gonna get hosed.

There is NO camber adjustment on old subes. Your best bet is probably to get a new, stright control arm and replace the bent one.

I've heard about the GSRs but can you shead some more light on this model to me? 4WD, HP, etc.

I seriously doubt this guy has problems with negative camber because all us old school guys a fighting to GET negative camber. You have a problem with POSITIVE camber, which is when the top of the wheel tilts out and the bottom tilts in: \ / This is what old soob's front wheels look like. / \ This is what negative camber looks like. My adjusters are all the way down on both my cars! Can I still be a member?

Wondering if anyone knows anything about this rig. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/Leone3.jpg

Well the obvious difference is that the Gen 1 spoiler won't fit Gen 2 cars. I don't think his has brake cooling ducts either.

I'm testing the waters on this idea. I just received a Kamei spoiler for my turbo wagon. I've heard that there is some interest in these and I figured I could lend a hand. I'm going to Western next year and I will have access to fiberglass and carbon fiber layups and I figured that I could fab some replicas up for sale if anyone were interested. These would be quality peices, not single layer (Read >1/8" thick) and could be speced out for brake ducting or oil cooler ducts. This is not for sure because I would be doing it in my spare time and I'm not even sure about testing, but who would be interested. Pricing is still up in the air but I think I could get them down around $150-200 for fiberglass or carbon fiber. So, whos interested? This is an example of the spoiler, sorry about tyhe quality of the picture: http://usmb.net/gallery/album216/IMG_0813?full=1

How difficult would it be to swap an EA81 front brake setup for a EA82 set up? Just the brakes, not the control arms or anything.

Yeah, yeah, yeah... Cheaper... I'm really happy that I kept the car the way it came from the factory, it is such a hoot to drive! I'm not making full boost though. 6psi instead of 7psi. I'll have to look at the manual to see if anything else can be adjusted.

Well the shop I had rebuild my engine put the plug wires on wrong. They were arranged 1-4-2-3, waaaaaay off, I know. Then my dad changed them to 1-2-3-4. Silly old man! I figured that he had them right and I spent half the day trying to set the timing on a car that couldn't hold a stedy idle with the timing light connected! Now its done, and its the best car EVER! Matt, you missed out!

I read in an issue of Sport Compact Car a while ago, and they tested a bunch of stock and aftermarket BOV and recerc valves. You know which was the most consistant with the least amount of boost occilation? The stock WRX recurc valve. No kidding.