carfreak85

Ok, a wheels in transplant is much harder. The knuckles are different, so the axles wont work. Talk to Subarubrat about using late model axles on earlier knuckles. the best way I can think of to tighten up the shifter is to use homebrew delrin bushings. I did this after my 5 speed swap, but my car was a 3 speed auto so I had nothing to compare it to, but its almost as good as my Dad's short shifted WRX!

Well, as far as I can remember, the EJ engine will physically bolt in where the EA engine was, but the valve covers will contact the chassis. The tranny will need custom mounts for the crossmember. You will also need to do the wiring swap for the engine and computer which is pretty much remove and replace with a bunch of lengthening, shortening and deleting wires as needed. As for your stock set up, put a weber DGV carb on it to gain a nice chunk of low end torque and think about a 5 speed tranny swap from a late 80s EA car. I hope this helps!

That had crossed my mind, but the barb from the hitachi has a large threaded end that uses a 12mm wrench to install. The weber looks like it used a press fit barb, plus the hitachi barb looks a bit larger.. If this has worked for you before, then I'll go look at it again.

Go drive that car or even the WRX and you will know right away what Subaru's intentions were!

How many of you guys out there have gen 1 cars with webers? How noticable is the differnece in power?

Ok I finally got the studs out. First I tried heating them with a hot air gun, but that didn't work at all. Then I tried using a blow-torch. That did the trick! So the weber is all hooked up (Throttle and choke) but I haven't done the vaccum hoses or fuel lines yet because the carb is missing the male fuel in barb. Well, thanks for all the suggestions!

How the **** do you get the studs that hold the old carb onto the manifold off? I tried the old two nut trick, but it just stretches the studs. I tried vice-grips and the stud broke. WTF is all I have to say...

Wagonboy, I just PMed you.

Will brake pads for an EA81 with vented front rotors fit on a car with solid front rotors?

Tell me about those air shocks!

I used 2" PVC pipe with some 90* and 45* street and double bell elbows. Also two rubber butt connecters to keep vibration down. The bad thing that happened is I forgot that it wasn't all hooked up and it came apart while I was driving and tore my last good front CV boot. Just my luck! Its ok though, because I'm getting a parts car today.

Who does TWB fabrications again?

Sport Compact Car used one of their clutches on their Project Ford Festiva and really liked it. http://www.clutchnet.com/make/subaru.html

The exhaust pipe already acts like a snorkel because it is so long! The rear diff is the next one to get a breather tube.

Should not what, remove the emmisions?

Well, its on the car now. Not sealed up though, haven't had the time, but I figure it should do pretty well, not a whole lot of air is needed to make 80 horsepower!

Here's mine: http://usmb.net/gallery/album215/IMG_0536?full=1

I pronounce it SU-BA-RU. I want to go down there man! You guys seem to have WRXs out the ying-yang!!!

Well, lets hope I can get it for less than $100!

I'm going for this guys, so please don't try to outbid a poor, starving college student! Thanks!

C'mon guys! I know at least one other person has installed a snorkel on their car!

Hey, I'm going to be cleaning, installing and tuning a carb on my friends brat. I was wondering if anyone had any tips, websites or whatever that could help me with this.

From an 84 FSM: 20MM for carby models, 22MM on Turbo models. Need any info for the coils or struts? Turbos are lower and stiffer.

That is too cool! Makes me want to get another brat!

Bumpyness?