carfreak85

Guys, from what I've read in other posts, it will point to the rear. That little mounting thing on the left runner faces the rear on every sube I've seen at the PAP.

Hey, might try looking for a set here, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html, find a set you like and then ask for a set of that type of wheel. We can probably find someone with a set of pretty much anything who is willing to sell.On a side note, Me and some other subaru fans will be up in the Islands for 5 days starting on june 29th (?). Would you be interested in meeting up? It would be me and Wagonpowaa and two non USMB Sube enthusists.

Very cool! How'd you manage that?

I beleive you can find that chart here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.phpt=12566&highlight=spring+ratesAlso, if you do some searches, or look at the strut and spring height in the chart, you can figure out which factory peices will lower your RX. I think the XT struts and springs will lower the car by an few cm's or so. As for the clutches, clutchnet.com makes awesome clutches! I don't have one, but I'm planning on getting one, and as racing clutches go, they are relitively inexpensive! http://www.clutchnet.com/make/subaru.html

GROSS!!! That is a "NO, DON'T YOU EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!" vote...

God, I hope my wagon runs faster than that when I race it! 20+ seconds and a 2.7+ 60 foot time? Hope nothings wrong with that wagon, because I found a website that lists 0-60 and 1/4 mile times, and the turbo subes were around 16-18 seconds in the quarter. Hows the engine on that?

I have an old MSD that was on my buddies Jeep Cherokee, then on my friends subaru gl, now on my EA81T wagon and its still running wel! 2 years and counting!

None of the subarus I've ever owned (Besides the WRX) have had a overflow tank. They are all EA81s. Just a little tube down to the ground. Even my EA81T wagon doesn't have a tank.

I hate the 92. Its so dumb! any consumer who buys a more expensive saab over the same subaru is nuts. why pay more for a different front end and a "European Heritage"?

I mean like shooting up from the floor at the bottom of the car while its like 10 feet in the air.

I've got some pics I'll throw up when I get home today.

It'd be cool to see some pics of the bottom of the car up on a lift!

So do EA82 radiators fit in EA81 cars?

Just making sure everyone sees this!

I'm going to be in the Sunnyside/Moxee area Friday and Saturday. Does anyone need me to pick up any parts or take any with me over there? Some money or parts for my time wouldn't hurt either!

I know the disty is on, but I'm pulling the engine and having it rebuilt to be same. It'll be a moster motor for WCSS6!

Cool, then I'll need to keep my eyes peeled for TWO LSDs. One for me, and one for Ben!

I always go to Discount Tire. They do it for free, plus they take the old tires too... can't beat free service!

Any others out there with experience?

If you want your radiator flushed, take it to a radiator shop. I know I don't want to deal with any of that chemical disposal stuff!

On the right is a volt meter, left side looks like a pressure gauge of some sort.

Mudrat79 sent me an email regarding this a while ago: Haven't seen your mail yet, But I'll assume its regarding steering... The reason behind steering issues is that the 1800 motor to tranny bellhousing is about 2 inches wider overall to the 1600 and you will severely rub steering if you don't have the 180 crossmember or modified steering. I'll try to explain it here, if it gets confusing, call me when you have the car torn down, and you can look directly at all the steering gear. Start with pulling the tin plate off. Then at the bottom of steering gear you will have the round rubber damper plate bolted down with 4 12mm nuts and Bolts, 2 will be mounted to upper steering gear, and 2 opposing ones will be mounted to ears on lower gear coming out o the rack. Measure the distance from the Lower easrs to the upper knucke up where it mounts to the steering column coming out the firewall, write this number down and be very critical about it. Now unbolt everything from the lower gear and the ears. You should have the rubber damper and a shaft and the upper knuckle in your hand at this point. Now, unbolt the unit that is left down at the rack that those ears are part of. It will be held in place by 1 or 2 12mm bolts. It will have a bearing on it and go down into the rack as a worm gear. Using a hacksaw or cutoff saw if you have one, cut this unit directly below the ears so that you have a round shaft left no welds, and no ear tabs. Now unbolt the rubber damper off the upper steering gear , and cut the shaft unit that had the ears bolted to the damper, also directly above the ears. Now you will need to find a piece of round tubing somewhere that will fit tightly over both the upper and Lower steering gear you just cut all the ear tabs off of. If I remember correctly, it is 5/8" O.D. and 1/2" I.D. Jig all of it up so that welded together, it measures your original measurement, tack weld it together, and test fit it in place stick lower end in first, and then upper knuckle. With it in place, get 2 or 3 bodies on the front of the car, and check steering both ways, bodies are to sub in for motor and tranny, axles sit differently with weight in car. If all is right, you should be able to get full steer, and Not rub axle, plus you've gained the room that you need to stuff 1800 tranny and Motor in. As I said, Call me if you have issues. Later, John in Oregon... Hope this helps everyone! If it does, send John a big thank you email!

I say go for it! If you don't like it, just put the factory bumper back on and sell the kit to some dope for his 91 civic or something!

My guess is that you're gonna have to cut the bumper to make it narrower. Cutting will be required, and lots of bondo or fiberglass.

I get no pics too!