carfreak85

If you had to choose, which would you take? which maf is happier with boost?

a lot of the differences you mentioned sound like stuff that was done to all RX's... Maybe DrRX can help.

I might be in the market for an EA82 turbo wagon. I would be modifying it, and I know that the gen 3 heads would be the best of those to have, but what other significant factors are there? Ive heard of the electronic boost cut, and what years were affected by that? Thanks for the help fellas!

Thats very informative! I wonder if copper head gaskets might help with your overheating problems. Just a thought, but anyway, do you have any more pics of the car, other than what is on the site's season photos? Id also be interested in some video if you can swing it! PS do you know how many sets of those WRC wheels that japanese company has?

I looked at your build page and I was left with a few questions. What mods if any were made to the car? how does the suspension hold up to jumps (ie does it bottom out/are you bending stuff?) how competitive is the car?

where can I get a set of those?

I think the closest to a sube style that your going to get is to order one for an 80s jap car. Ive heard the gen 2 Honda CRX is a close match... I just mounted my gauges in the radio box , Very crude for now, but I plan to use a heavier gauge aluminum for the version three panel. By the way, if your looking for a gauge pod I have a few for sale If your interested...

84 turbo wagon 138k 83 carbd wagon 191k 02 WRX sedan 23k

do you mean, "Will it bolt on?" I have no idea but I can almost 100% promise that it wont.

that looks identicle to the battery in my Dad's WRX..

I dont mean to complicate the situation any more, but as Matt said, my car has code 11 as well. the problem with mine is that it makes a terrible sound and after if warms up it wants to die anytime you touch the gas and if you do that too much it doesnt even want to idle.

Id like to get a couple of whatever is made!!!

2.2L has more HP than the 2.5L? I thought the 2.2 had around 140HP at the most.

could i get a couple of mediums or larges?

i just want pics, dont care if its on or off the car!!!

need more! pics maybe?

where would the black connector be for the ignition timing?

well the trouble shooting trees in the FSM tell me that I need a new computer. But the codes im getting say ignition problem. i have a old MSD coil on the car, do you think it is toast and not giving a good spark? the engine also gives a noise like a knocking rod that gets quieter as the car warms up and drops idle. it is LOUD when you first hit the gas then mellows out at higher RPM. My Dad says he has little experince with knocking rods but after using the automotive stethiscope, he is pretty sure it sint a knocking rod because there is no noise at the crank but it is loud on the intake manifold and at the back of the block/ bellhousing. Is this a knocking rod? I had to drop the oil pan and put a new one on, so the pan was off for a while, could this lack of oil in the engine caused a knocking rod at startup? didnt used to make this noise.

I wnt some pictures and a good write up here and in the USRM!!!

get a carbd short block and rebulid that and put the turbo heads on it then throw it in your car. they have a higher CR so Id use 91-92-93-94 octane gas. makes it more efficient.

I didnt remember this until after I tested the O2 sensor. We do get spart an the disty when its running, if that helps. I think it is an issue with the ignition system that is the problem since im not getting any fuel codes.

Wagonpowaa and I just pulled and replaced the pans on our EA71, EA63 and EA81T respectivly. we did this with the car jacked up so we could fit underneath. Mine came out pretty easily, but Ben's took a little more work due to the shape of the crossmember. This makes me think that yours will come off easily too, but dont hold me to it.

Skip suggested to me that the dash pot is out of adjustment. that might explain why it dies when im coasting to a stop. but that doesnt explain why it doesnt like to restart when its hot. after looking at my trouble shooting trees in my FSMs, I think that if the wiring related to the trouble codes im getting isnt bad, then I think the ECU is poopy, but if that were the case, it wouldn't run, so I think its the wiring.

the comment about the plug causing the codes is interesting, but seems to make sense because Matt and I are getting the same codes! How much is an O2 sensor anyway? Im gonna go unplug min right now!

this is soooo messed up! so there is a bad ground some where and something is wrong with the ignition. Has anyone delt with this before?