carfreak85

Two engine, two transmission mounts on an EA81, plus the pitch stopper.

I would happily trade you a ported set of carb'd heads for your fuel injected heads. On less place for a vacuum leak to pop up!

Is your car running coilovers, or KYB replacement struts?

The heads have no change on the compression. EA81Ts have lower compression pistons, the combustion chamber volume is identical, carb or turbo.

This seems like the most obvious place for an issue to crop up. Drilled before or after the tires were mounted and balanced?

Sounds like you've done some research, but have some of the facts mixed up. I did my MT conversion back in 2004, so things are a bit hazy, but I'll try to help. I need an 85-89 5 speed manual transmission with the dual range 4wd - Yes ea82 crossmember custom fabricated to fit into ea81 ( Contact Jerry?) - EA81 MT crossmember modified, yes Jerry, if he's still doing them ea82 pilot bearing - Pilot to match your flywheel ea82 flywheel - I needed bushings for the bolts on my EA82 flywheel, others haven't. YMMV ea82 clutch/pressure plate - Yes ea81 original tranny mounts installed onto ea82 tranny - Depends. I think Jerry uses EA81 mounts, but they're a bad design. EA82 is better, but requires more modification ea82 drive shaft (For some reason I was getting mixed signals on whether or not the driveshaft needs to be customized in some way) - I had my EA81 shaft modified, didn't want to mess with a center bearing mount ea81 MANUAL pedal box assembly with with cables (an ea82 manual pedal box will not work from what I've read??) - I prefer the EA81 MT box, others may have forced the EA82 box to work, but it's not a great fit ea82 Speedo cables? - EA81 MT cable, I think. Do more reading ea82 rear diff?? the ea81 diff is 3.7, I don't know if the ea82 is the same or a 3.9 - Doesn't matter what gen, just get one that matches your front diff gear ratio there's the whole flywheel holes being to big, but that didn't seem like a big deal - per above, I needed bushings, others haven't Also, does it matter if the tranny is from a turbo ea82? - Turbo has different number of splines on the front stub shafts than your front axles will have, but the diff gear ratio would match your EA81 AT 3.7 rear diff.

I'm currently installing a set of coilovers on my 1987 GL 3-door and I was curious how other folks mount the rear coilovers in their EA82s. I've seen them installed using a mishmash of OEM and aftermarket parts, but that seems like it not only increases the ride height, but could potentially snap the shock shaft. So, what do you folks do? I've got a few ideas of my own, but I'm interested to see your solutions.

I've been slowly combing through various subsystems on my RX and the most recent system to get some love was the PCV system. I found that every hose is still available, except the one that attaches directly to the PCV valve on the intake manifold. I ran down to my local auto parts store with the original hose in hand to pick through their selection of hoses. WELL! It turns out that the small heater hose from a 2002-2009 Ford Explorer (Dayco P/N 87730) is almost a perfect fit. Hose was about $7 and needed to have a small portion trimmed off. NOTE: EPDM is NOT oil safe, so until I find a better solution, I'll need to keep an eye on this hose to make sure it isn't perishing too quickly.

Uhhhh…. I don't think any production Subaru has EVER had 14-15 in. rotors. STI Brembos are only like 12.1 in. or something.

Yeah, there are companies out there that already do this. If all you want is a fun side project, knock yourself out, this seems like a fun thing to try if you have the means. If you want to actually make power or have a reliable engine to beat on, start with a factory turbocharged engine. @GeneralDisorder

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=8&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiFzKTYn7fjAhVewMQHHZpJAxQQFjAHegQIABAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.3m.com%2F3M%2Fen_US%2Fcompany-us%2Fall-3m-products%2F~%2F3M-Stripe-Off-Wheel%2F%3FN%3D5002385%2B3293162209%26rt%3Drud&usg=AOvVaw2yqgIQXb3Vxu5J0DCoaM-j This works really well, been using one to remove pin stripes and adhesive foams from my fleet.

Don't waste you time closing the deck of an N/A engine and adding boost. Your time and money is better spent buying a factory-turbo'd Forester...

Just to close the loop on this topic: EA82 door strikers AND the mounting hardware are now both discontinued...

I ended up digging through my spare hardware and found a short M4 (M5, maybe?) that grabs the distributor shaft and holds tight. So we're back on the road (with a new-found coolant leak )

There haven't really been "turbo kits" for Subarus in the U.S. since the WRX came out, for obvious reasons. OEM just does it better... Buy a WRX/STI, swap a factory turbo engine/trans/suspension/brakes under your own car, but good luck even finding a turbo kit these days.

I haven't really driven the car enough to determine how frequent it is. Discovered another hemorrhaging coolant hose on the last test drive, so waiting for a slew of NOS parts to tackle the PCV and turbo coolant/oil hoses before I drive her again. Also picked up 12 ft. of vacuum hose to replace all the boost reference hoses. Discovered that the center diff lock isn't interested in playing, even sitting still with the engine on. Hmmmmmm...

Priorities Paul! Might need to be a yearly migration...

H6 = Kleenex, been used for so long and is a short, easy thing to remember. Master, yes, probably. Brake booster is different between the three models though, '99 Forester, '02+ WRX, any-STI.

@Gloyale It feels like my '87 RX is doing this, but I've only been able to drive it a few times and it's pretty subtle. Any suggestions?

As the brakes wore out on our '99 Forester I replaced the originals with '02 WRX front brake rotors/brackets and the rears with H6 rotors/brackets. Pads were the same front & rear, needed to trim the rear and slightly bend the front dust shields to clear the larger rotors, but that was pretty easy. I've been debating swapping out the brake booster/master cylinder for WRX/STI parts, but only if they fall into my lap for a decent price. Love these brakes on this car!

You really shouldn't be installing aftermarket axles in the GL. If you had done some research on the board first, you would have read multiple threads where people complain about the exact same issues you're having; axles bad out of the box or fail shortly after being installed. The lifetime warranty means jack squat if you're replacing axles once per month (though I'm sure you've got the repair down to a science now! ) 15 miles isn't that far at all, is public transportation an option for a short while? We have pretty bad public transit around here, but my sister still commutes over 20 miles each way by bus into Seattle for work every day. You could also take up cycling (not trying to be a jerk or jester, just throwing out options).

GD already told you on the last page what socket to use...

NOBODY needs an AOS or catch can on a street car. If your pushing that much oil into your intake charge, you need a rebuild. Until the rules changed in the mid/late 2000's Prodrive vented the WRC and Group N car's PCV systems straight into the atmosphere using an under-car draft tube running off the engine.

There really is no benefit. Your engine is already set up to deal with blowby, adding a catch can is just one more part to maintain (unless it's set up to drain back into the engine, you'll have to drain the catch can), and it's not as if you'll notice a bump in power with the zero-to-half-a-point bump in the octane rating of your inlet charge.

Guess I must either be thinking of EA81+, or Toyota 3A Weber conversions...