carfreak85

Yeah, there are companies out there that already do this. If all you want is a fun side project, knock yourself out, this seems like a fun thing to try if you have the means. If you want to actually make power or have a reliable engine to beat on, start with a factory turbocharged engine. @GeneralDisorder

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=8&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiFzKTYn7fjAhVewMQHHZpJAxQQFjAHegQIABAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.3m.com%2F3M%2Fen_US%2Fcompany-us%2Fall-3m-products%2F~%2F3M-Stripe-Off-Wheel%2F%3FN%3D5002385%2B3293162209%26rt%3Drud&usg=AOvVaw2yqgIQXb3Vxu5J0DCoaM-j This works really well, been using one to remove pin stripes and adhesive foams from my fleet.

Don't waste you time closing the deck of an N/A engine and adding boost. Your time and money is better spent buying a factory-turbo'd Forester...

Just to close the loop on this topic: EA82 door strikers AND the mounting hardware are now both discontinued...

I ended up digging through my spare hardware and found a short M4 (M5, maybe?) that grabs the distributor shaft and holds tight. So we're back on the road (with a new-found coolant leak )

There haven't really been "turbo kits" for Subarus in the U.S. since the WRX came out, for obvious reasons. OEM just does it better... Buy a WRX/STI, swap a factory turbo engine/trans/suspension/brakes under your own car, but good luck even finding a turbo kit these days.

I haven't really driven the car enough to determine how frequent it is. Discovered another hemorrhaging coolant hose on the last test drive, so waiting for a slew of NOS parts to tackle the PCV and turbo coolant/oil hoses before I drive her again. Also picked up 12 ft. of vacuum hose to replace all the boost reference hoses. Discovered that the center diff lock isn't interested in playing, even sitting still with the engine on. Hmmmmmm...

Priorities Paul! Might need to be a yearly migration...

H6 = Kleenex, been used for so long and is a short, easy thing to remember. Master, yes, probably. Brake booster is different between the three models though, '99 Forester, '02+ WRX, any-STI.

@Gloyale It feels like my '87 RX is doing this, but I've only been able to drive it a few times and it's pretty subtle. Any suggestions?

As the brakes wore out on our '99 Forester I replaced the originals with '02 WRX front brake rotors/brackets and the rears with H6 rotors/brackets. Pads were the same front & rear, needed to trim the rear and slightly bend the front dust shields to clear the larger rotors, but that was pretty easy. I've been debating swapping out the brake booster/master cylinder for WRX/STI parts, but only if they fall into my lap for a decent price. Love these brakes on this car!

You really shouldn't be installing aftermarket axles in the GL. If you had done some research on the board first, you would have read multiple threads where people complain about the exact same issues you're having; axles bad out of the box or fail shortly after being installed. The lifetime warranty means jack squat if you're replacing axles once per month (though I'm sure you've got the repair down to a science now! ) 15 miles isn't that far at all, is public transportation an option for a short while? We have pretty bad public transit around here, but my sister still commutes over 20 miles each way by bus into Seattle for work every day. You could also take up cycling (not trying to be a jerk or jester, just throwing out options).

GD already told you on the last page what socket to use...

NOBODY needs an AOS or catch can on a street car. If your pushing that much oil into your intake charge, you need a rebuild. Until the rules changed in the mid/late 2000's Prodrive vented the WRC and Group N car's PCV systems straight into the atmosphere using an under-car draft tube running off the engine.

There really is no benefit. Your engine is already set up to deal with blowby, adding a catch can is just one more part to maintain (unless it's set up to drain back into the engine, you'll have to drain the catch can), and it's not as if you'll notice a bump in power with the zero-to-half-a-point bump in the octane rating of your inlet charge.

Guess I must either be thinking of EA81+, or Toyota 3A Weber conversions...

I'm no Weber x Subaru expert, I play more with the fuel injected/forced induction Subarus, new and old.

There's your issue. First off, your fuel pump is probably overfilling the carb, IIRC Webers want only a few psi of fuel pressure and the stock pump pushes a few psi MORE than the Weber likes. You may need a pressure regulator. Also, your fuel tank wants to be vented, so make sure that you haven't capped off the return/vent lines, or on hot days you'll have a pressurized fuel tank pushing even MORE fuel into your over-fueled carb.

Does your Weber have a return line to the fuel tank?

4Wheeler magazine (or similar) did a mini-series on their project Subaru. I think they did swap in 14-in. wheels, but could only fit a marginally taller tire (no lift kit). You may not even be able to find a larger-than-stock tire in those wheel sizes anymore...

13 years later! Necro-bump!

I was wondering where all these BRAT models were coming from, flooding the market!

I do have a spare RX to burgle a distributor off of, so I guess I'll start there, if the spare looks serviceable. I still can't believe I stripped the distributor shaft with a ~M5 screw...

165/80 was never a OEM Subaru tire size, AFAIK. Most got 175/70s, RXs and some others got 185/70s.

733154000 - Still shows as available 733146000 - Shows as NLA